Cleaning and reusing spark plugs

NAPA in Canada has Champion and Autolite non resister plugs that cross reference to the NKG.
Take those cross references with a grain of salt, NAPA cross referenced a plug to my Prius that wasn't even close to what it should have been. Threads into the hole seemed to be about the only commonality.
 
Champ. N7YC is probably a good replacement. N7Y is spec'ed in the manual along with BP7ES, and the 'C" is its replacement at Champion
 
Champion, Pennzoil, Budweiser.
4fa28395307c096f7f8f6f84233fe345.jpg
 
PS I use a torch cuz the ceramic absorbs oil, IMHO only a good torching will get it all out of the ceramic.
spray the plug with carb cleaner then torch for a spectacular event....
Gary, do tell us about your torching method.

I have a propane torch,
Mapp gas torch (hotter),
and Oxy-acetylene (much hotter, of course).
BTW, I do realise that melting the plug with the latter would not be advised :)

spark.jpg
 
Reusing cleaned spark plugs is a common practice. Been doing that as well since being a very young motorcycle wrencher.
Many XS members are quite adomat of using specified torque values all over their XS's. (not me so much you all know :speechless:)
The spark plug threaded hole in the XS aluminum head is vulnerable to misuse or even just high use as this is a maintenance and tuning necessity.
Question, when re using spark plug squish gaskets, who is using a torque wrench? and if so, why would the specified torque value still apply after many years of unknown use?
Spark plug threaded holes are one of the most concerning threaded holes to me.
I just go light.
-R
 
FWIW - Alan Millyard heats up old plugs in his BBQ and uses them in his super-duper one-off custom re-makes of all kinds of different bikes.

Pete
 
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If you check your plugs a lot, you'll end up wearing out those crush washers long before the plug is worn. It took some searching but several years ago I managed to find Champion replacements (N-678) for cheap and bought a whole bunch.
 
Gary, do tell us about your torching method.
In case you were serious. ;)
I use Bernzomatic trigger start propane torches, yeah one in the garage, one in the shed
This is a good quick why fouled plugs are a problem, with some causes video.
Since it's NGK they say they can't be cleaned LOL
This is short covers it pretty well, using a plug socket to hold the plug in the vice, brilliant. focus would have been nice. :unsure:
minor quibbles
He might be slightly overheating it, for me electrodes red, not white hot. Does a good job moving torch around, the critical part is the nose insulator, want to get it clean/white as deep as you can all the way around.
If the plug is wet oily, start with some carb cleaner. NOT brake cleaner!!
After torching I may use a thin scraper (windshield wiper stainless steel strip ground to fit and scrape).
I like a fine stainless wire brush to finish up, I'm not a heavy scrubber, the porcelain is porous, rough, you don't want to leave a fine layer of conductive stainless steel worn off the brush wires on the insulator, a good reason not to use a soft brass brush.
Blow any gunk out with compressed air.
I seldom find bike plugs with electrodes that are very worn, rounded off. But as 5twins hints; sparks prefer sharp edges to jump from. So rounded edges require a bit more energy to fire. You can file an electrode to get a sharp edge back.
Check your gap before you reinstall. I like those round gauges.
10075900_ptl_w80540_pri_larg.jpg

OK the brake cleaner thing. it is a big deal.
https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-12/dont-get-careless/
I know Jim and others use spark plug sandblasters. Aside from not having one, :laugh: possibly leaving abrasive residue in a motor scares me. :shrug:
There; the 9 yards version. :)
repeat; if in doubt change it out. plugs are cheap.
PS if you suspect your motor was flooded cranking it with the plugs out can get rid of a fair amount of raw gas, dry things out a bit. 'Specially good idea with 2 strokes that may have a slug of raw gas sitting in the crankcase.
If the motor, carbs are cold a hair dry to warm them up a bit can do wonders getting a motor fired up.
 
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If you check your plugs a lot, you'll end up wearing out those crush washers long before the plug is worn. It took some searching but several years ago I managed to find Champion replacements (N-678) for cheap and bought a whole bunch.

Yup - I bought a bunch of new crush washers from that outfit and they are (as Alan Millyard would say....) paaahhhhfict.
 
I know Jim and others use spark plug sandblasters. Aside from not having one, :laugh: possibly leaving abrasive residue in a motor scares me. :shrug:

Yeah, I've always wanted one of those too - but I doubt that Cathie would let me keep it on the kitchen counter the way the Sue does for Jim....:D
 
I don't see rounded edges on the center electrode much on 4 stroke plugs. That's why a new plug to compare to is the needed "tool". On our two strokes, years ago, they rounded the edges off and even wore the whole top of the center electrode off at an angle, lol.
 
A few comments...
Back in my 2 stroke days, a propane torch was a required tool... that or a big bank account for new plugs. Agree with Gary, the guy in the vid is using too much heat. Heat it to dull red, let it cool, blow out the sooty bits with shop air... done.
Actual Mapp gas was discontinued around 2010 or so. What you get now is propane with a wiff of "something" so it can be called Mapp. Save your money and use propane.... less than 30°f difference 'tween the two.
The odd glass bead or two you carelessly left on the plug will depart out the exhaust in short order... don't sweat it. It's not like it has a pathway to the oil sump.
 
Would it be noticeable on running if both resistor plugs and resistor plug caps were used?
Also other way, if no resistor in plugs or caps?
 
I've been meaning to get a plug cleaner for years, and didn't know they were still available new, as I recall using the older benchtop Champion models decades ago. Any time I've seen one of the older ones, some silly price has been attached to it, so I just let it slide.
However, seeing the HF one got me looking and those cheerful Chinese are making them now for 25 quid delivered.
 
Would it be noticeable on running if both resistor plugs and resistor plug caps were used?
Also other way, if no resistor in plugs or caps?
My research so far :
No resistors = fine for points, not for electronic ignition
5k resistor cap or plug (one or the other) = required to eliminate radio frequency interference
5k resistor caps AND 5k resistor plugs = spark duration is too short, runs inefficient and might cause issues.

Not a good explanation but on my phone and I'm up too late as it is
 
As Jim mentioned... a quick source of fire was practically necessary for 2 stroke riding. Well when I was younger and thought a 32:1 ratio was good enough for my single track woods riding on a poorly jetted bike. More than once cleaning the plug got me home in a pinch :bow:
 
In case you were serious. ;)
I use Bernzomatic trigger start propane torches, yeah one in the garage, one in the shed
This is a good quick why fouled plugs are a problem, with some causes video.
Since it's NGK they say they can't be cleaned LOL
This is short covers it pretty well, using a plug socket to hold the plug in the vice, brilliant. focus would have been nice. :unsure:
minor quibbles
He might be slightly overheating it, for me electrodes red, not white hot. Does a good job moving torch around, the critical part is the nose insulator, want to get it clean/white as deep as you can all the way around.
If the plug is wet oily, start with some carb cleaner. NOT brake cleaner!!
After torching I may use a thin scraper (windshield wiper stainless steel strip ground to fit and scrape).
I like a fine stainless wire brush to finish up, I'm not a heavy scrubber, the porcelain is porous, rough, you don't want to leave a fine layer of conductive stainless steel worn off the brush wires on the insulator, a good reason not to use a soft brass brush.
Blow any gunk out with compressed air.
I seldom find bike plugs with electrodes that are very worn, rounded off. But as 5twins hints; sparks prefer sharp edges to jump from. So rounded edges require a bit more energy to fire. You can file an electrode to get a sharp edge back.
Check your gap before you reinstall. I like those round gauges.
10075900_ptl_w80540_pri_larg.jpg

OK the brake cleaner thing. it is a big deal.
https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-12/dont-get-careless/
I know Jim and others use spark plug sandblasters. Aside from not having one, :laugh: possibly leaving abrasive residue in a motor scares me. :shrug:
There; the 9 yards version. :)
repeat; if in doubt change it out. plugs are cheap.
PS if you suspect your motor was flooded cranking it with the plugs out can get rid of a fair amount of raw gas, dry things out a bit. 'Specially good idea with 2 strokes that may have a slug of raw gas sitting in the crankcase.
If the motor, carbs are cold a hair dry to warm them up a bit can do wonders getting a motor fired up.
I was serious. Thanks !
 
If anyone has pictures of the plugs with the " Right Look " for a XS650 that would be interesting to see
When i ride cruising on small roads about 50 -80 km / h variable throttle
Normal outdoor temperature mine are a bit black
But never so black as some shown here and always dry.
When I go faster on warm days 25 C and up
80 -110 Km / h they get more brown..I rarely goes faster on XS 650
for longer periods.
Bike runs fine and I am nervous getting a to lean. mixture.
I assume yours are black to since cleaning is needed
 
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