bul_racer
XS650 Addict
FWIW any tiny split or tear in the carb diaphragms will cause bad running and refusal to rev.
Raymond, the diaphragms are new.
FWIW any tiny split or tear in the carb diaphragms will cause bad running and refusal to rev.
So what we're saying here is the hot tip is to quit "chasing a problem". The way forward is to do (redo) the wake up drill, checking, and doing any needed repairs, up grades, to each system as you go. As the Grizzled one always says: compression, spark, fuel.
Set cam chain, set valves, now do a compression check. Go through and test all parts of the iggy. Then see if you have bright spark at the proper time, both idle and revved. Now go though the carbs using the carb guide found in tech "till your eyes bleed" Do not leave out ANY part of the process. When you are certain all the parts are correct, clean, and working If it STILL doesn't run well, start troubleshooting.
Nope, you're not "screwed for the winter," you're just given an opportunity to do needful things without being pressured by the urge to get the machine on the road.
Apart from setting valve lash there's not much to be done about compression until you can run the motor, so you might start by cleaning every switch and connector on that bike and applying a dab of dielectric grease. Then have a look at Gary's charging system guide in Tech. Gary announced a clear intention of writing a reference thread, but for some reason guys had to interrupt, divert, and distract with their personal questions--a species of vandalism that pisses me off no end. So what you might do is to print off the material and do some cut-and-paste editing, chopping out the useless diversions and leaving Gary's fine work as unmolested as possible. When you're done with that, download the factory service manual from www.biker.net (it's free, thanks to Jean Akers' generosity). Then proceed to ignition checks.
I use SAE battery tender cable on all my bikes and keep a digital voltmeter on a cable long enough to mount up near the handlebar. A lot of us old codgers like to be able to see the charging system health as we ride. Those little combo voltmeter USB chargers are handy specially if you use your phone for GPS duty. Wired directly back to battery, lets you charge a phone even when the bike is off.
Run it til it breaks up keep it going like that for a bit if you can, pull and inspect the plugs. I have one of those inline spark testers I'll throw it on and go ride if I got a "miss" problem see if there's a spark issue. With a fully charged battery one TCI "test" is unplugging the voltage regulator, ride to the problem RPM, see if anything changes. Testing pickups is straight forward with a VOM.
The factory iggy test is to check and eliminate all the components as a problem til the TCI is the last untested unit. then replace that.
A badly worn broken pickup wire by where the bundle passes the sprocket has happened on several machines 'round these parts. Gives a similar probs as yours.
Not read through that thoroughly.
But as i Understand it we are talking a bike after a long standstill since 2005
Carburetors are serviced
With a factory CDI box
As I understand it wont rev up properly above a couple of thousand rpm
I am a cheapskate but that there is Asking for trouble
There was an issue with the spark plug cap separating from the wire. I cut off about 1/4 inch from the wire, then installed the cap with a twisting motion to set the screw then taped the cap to the wire with Gorilla Tape. Should hold for a while.
That is also something to do like now today replace spark plugs
and I have not replaced the spark plugs yet.
New spark plug wires and new spark plugs
tank inspection so not things is flushed into the carburetors rust .
Then the battery should be charged I think it would be possible to wake up -- Of course not certain but charge it or it will get destroyed if Voltage drops
After that measure charging voltage as per Mr 5T s post
If that looks OK and it still wont rev I would service the ignition circuit Connectors and Ground point and wires
Including fuse holder and kill switch
Positive mindset I feel this can be normal wake up problems
I once had a friend that bought Volkswagen beetles As cheap he could find them with a MOT
One of them did not run properly misfiring and he asked me for help getting it run over the summer at least ..Upon opening the lid
I was all black in there it looked as if Someone had hosed it down with Black oil
Newer seen it before or after.
I broke out into laughter .. Not exactly the right thing to do with a new purchased friends car.
Bicycle to the service station the ignition wires spark plugs a distributor lid if i recall right ..
He had some solvent we wiped off the worst black smear --Wroom Wroom Wroom Wroom
I don't think he even set the ignition timing or washed the engine A least drove the year some lasted 5 years .. and then he bought the next one
Wrecks all of them but he had low car costs
I had some time to read, and just caught up through all 14 pages. Very interesting and learned a lot! Makes me want to pull the carbs just to take a peek inside. And now the head!
'TT'
Orange to black should read around 700 ohms.
Same with gray to black.
View attachment 203147
This is great! Thanks!
I took the end of my spark tester and ground it down to fit the small diameter plug cap,
other end you can thread a cap on the plug....
Yes, you can use the "E" manual. The only major differences between the E and your G are the ignition and the carbs. Most everything else is the same (on the motor anyway).
I am not that daring yet. But the carbs sure look tasty!Or did you mean the other Head?
If you end up needing to remove the pick up coil, those "rivets" are actually threaded screws, you can slot the heads with a cut off disk in a dremel tool and turn them out.