Recent content by kenintn

Uh https://www.mikesxs.net/ken_maxwell/ChargingSystem.html https://www.mikesxs.net/ken_maxwell/images/meter.jpg. https://www.mikesxs.net/ken_maxwell/WiringExplained.html

All the time

Is everyone has noted finding intermittent shorts are hard. It’s a hassle, but you could try disconnecting, or even putting fuses in line with all of the circuits that branch off of the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch.

Yep. The math: amps = volts divided by resistance (ohms) Rotor resistance normally is 5 ohms. 12V/5ohms= 2.4 amps. But If the rotor goes bad its resistance can drop down near zero. If so, 12v/.2 ohms = ? AMPS You do the math. 😊

Actually if the rotor did shirt it would blow the 20 amp fuse. Current from the battery flows through the rotor coil , creates a magnetic field that creates the charging voltage. If the resistance of the rotor coil drops (as it does when it shorts) high amps will flow blowing the fuse. People...

Unfortunately, as someone else noted , your meter will not read enough Amps to test the rotor. You need one that will read at least 10 ounce. You can pick one up at Lowe’s or Home Depot for about 30 -$40.

Sorry about that, The red wire is power in from the fuse. Turn the ign on and it sends power out the brown wire, R/Ywire. In park it sends volts (power as we call jt) out to the parking lights

Locate the wires that come from the engine run switch on the h-Bar. This is the ignition circuit. LEAVE IT PLUGED UP. the other wires go to things like horn turn signals and such. I’d unplug them (keep track (with pics) where they go) and just leave the ignition circuit connected. Then plug...

this type problem is hard to find. However you can isolate circuits then bring them back one at a time if you have the patience. The wiring goes like this. A resd wire comes from the fuse to the headlight can where it then connects to the ignition switch Out of the igi switch come three wires...

To confirm, you remove the brown brush lead wire from the brush holder, Set your meter on amps, connect the red lead to the wire you removed , the black lead to the spot where they screw held it to the brush holder. Simply turn the ignition on and the amp meter should show about 2. 25 Amps...

To confirm, you remove the brown brush lead wire from the brush holder, Set your meter on amps, connect the red lead to the wire you removed , the black lead to the spot where they screw held it to the brush holder. Simply turn the ignition on and the amp meter should show about 2. 25 Amps...

Sounds like CARMO has a design flaw. Because if your bike pick ups are doing it probably most all Yamaha’s are going to heat up and do the same thing.

On a stock bike the coil and the electronic ignition All come off the same 10 amp ignition fuse. I posted a thread showing how many different connectors the circuit went through that could possibly have loose connections. Since yours is a scratch built harness this wouldn’t apply.

Regarding the post about using a jumper. i guess i should have explained what this was doing. By using the jumper you are bypassing all the electrical connection from the battery to the coils. The path is ... battery to main fuse (connections) Main fuse to ignition switch (connections)...