Keeps popping main fuse....

To confirm, you remove the brown brush lead wire from the brush holder, Set your meter on amps, connect the red lead to the wire you removed , the black lead to the spot where they screw held it to the brush holder.
Simply turn the ignition on and the amp meter should show about 2. 25 Amps if it reads high amps you have a bad rotor
If it checks within that range, then I would look where your wiring harness goes through your headlight can. That rubber O-ring wears out from vibration. . The metal headlight can hole cuts through it and starts cutting into the wiring harness. When you’re checking, it look for signs of arcing around the edge of the hole. Check your wiring harness sheath. Make sure it’s intact.

If you get into a situation, where, as soon as you turn ignition on, it blows the fuse do this. Take a tail, light bulb or a turn. Signal bulb, connect two wires to it, (socket) connect one wire on one side of the fuse clip, the other wire on the other side of the fuse clip, (use alligator clips, )Turn your ignition on, if the light burns bright, you’ve got a short.) With the light burning, bright, start moving wiring harness, shaking it, if it’s in the harness, and your movement interrupts the short, that lights gonna go dim or out. Wherever you were shaking it that’s where it’s at.
These are the two likely places I’ve seen that blows the main views.

Hope this helps. Good luck. Keep us informed for as alway, Inquiring minds want to know.👍

UK
Kenintn

Did you see my message from yesterday saying I don’t have a brown wire, a brown brush wire. I just have a green and a black. So I would use the green wire, correct?
 
Oops, my thread just disappeared. Your meter only goes up to 0.2A (200mA). Going beyond this value will burn out the protective fuse in your meter: See warning note btween the black and red sockets.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1337276065...uid=tW1migcmQPO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
1681909075002.png

And no I'm not holding your hand endlessly while you figure out how to wire it.
 
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A sure way to discover the problem and prepare to solve an infinite series of problems. Start here>https://archive.org/details/NEETSMo...oduction to Matter Energy and Direct Current/

Taking the long way 'round generally improves the condition of mind and body...and y'all pick up knowledge and ability that no one can take away.

As you learn about things you can't see, things seem mysterious, until they don't...then it's like a birth, or a dawn.

Best!
 
There can be issues inside the main harness near the back of the gas tank. No idea if that's YOUR issue.
Like someone else mentioned the wires going in and out of the handlebars on the 75 would be a likely troublespot.
 
There can be issues inside the main harness near the back of the gas tank. No idea if that's YOUR issue.
Like someone else mentioned the wires going in and out of the handlebars on the 75 would be a likely troublespot.

Yes, it’s going to be tough to find. I will check the handlebars and see but underneath the gas tank all the wires are totally intact.
 
I've a funny story about field stripping a smoking KZ1300 alongside a highway as the main harness under the gas tank melted down.
Possible relevant point; I noticed nice neat work and lots of zip ties on your bike.
Under tight bundle ties is a popular place for shorts to develop. Ditto for the fold that forms in the harness next to the neck.
 
Yes, it’s going to be tough to find. I will check the handlebars and see but underneath the gas tank all the wires are totally intact.
Q.C. of this access hole weld was next to nill before it got plated.Often a sharp thorn would be left at the end of the weld thus a hidden problem.Not a waste of time at all to inspect even if it doesn’t turn out to be your problem.
 

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I ought to have said also that in trouble shooting a primary error occurs if the "scientist" (that's you Brother) assumes anything he does not know proved. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truth_table This is a method of stating facts that are too complex to keep clear, for most people, in their mind. Truth tables are very, very, useful...and they apply to decision making generally. A common error is the assumption that there's is only one problem. Another false assumption is that the factory wiring diagram (that is in the books) is accurate. IME they usually have impossible circuits, ie major problems. Obviously the actual factory got it right...transcription errors happen.

Small problems, like motorcycle wiring, do tend to get solved in haphazard by guess n by god methods, but a learning moment is not to be wasted...is it? Take notes. Beware, some troubleshooting errors lead to sudden fubars, like fire, or explosion and eye injury, etc.

I got stuck on my XS "street tracker" down at the Dew Drop Steak House...blew the main fuse and when she rolled inta the lot, she died. Tinfoil and a beer...borrowed tools...and she regained life. Fuse was 15 amp...stupid, no?
 
....and see but underneath the gas tank all the wires are totally intact.

i have literally gone through every connector on this bike and everything is very solid
Headlight bucket grommets are flawless all rubber new, I’ve literally been thru the bucket over 10 times! All wires are immaculate, nothing exposed. All connections are fully covered and snug and beautiful. Harness sheath is also intact and looks brand new at all points throughout the harness.
I’m telling you i have literally gone through every connector on this bike and everything is very solid, no bare wires touching any metal or anything crazy.

Everything in the headlight bucket is fine, the grommets are fine. No issues there. I’ve gone through every connector everywhere and nothing is shorting out
This is the only piece of advice I'm gonna offer.....

Spend a little less time tellin' us how hunky dory everything is and start digging into it. If it was all as "clean and flawless" as you're tellin' us, you wouldn't be blowin' fuses would you? Somewhere on that bike a wire is intermittently and randomly touching bare metal.
Quit tellin' us how perfect everything is and go find it. DIG IN!!
 
This is the only piece of advice I'm gonna offer.....

Spend a little less time tellin' us how hunky dory everything is and start digging into it. If it was all as "clean and flawless" as you're tellin' us, you wouldn't be blowin' fuses would you? Somewhere on that bike a wire is intermittently and randomly touching bare metal.
Quit tellin' us how perfect everything is and go find it. DIG IN!!

Im 6ft deep now and nothing! Also rode this morning for an hour, 35 miles and no blown fuses. Quite possible from wiggling everything and detaching and reattaching the brushes, that i fixed the short but never knew where even the hell it was! The rotor area is the only area i have been in the last month or so which is exactly when this issue occurred…so perhaps it was a brush grounding out or something
 
Im 6ft deep now and nothing! Also rode this morning for an hour, 35 miles and no blown fuses. Quite possible from wiggling everything and detaching and reattaching the brushes, that i fixed the short but never knew where even the hell it was! The rotor area is the only area i have been in the last month or so which is exactly when this issue occurred…so perhaps it was a brush grounding out or something
With intermittent phenomena the truth table is essential. You are assuming...what? Make a list. I'd suggest that you are assuming that the problem(s) are with the wiring. Is that a valid assumption? Have you tested the fuses themselves. Question> can the factory mislabel a fuse? Can a new fuse be defective? Can a headlamp that works, also suffer intermittent shorts? Assume zero. Be a heretic, think for yourself. I just had a turn signal lamp short internally on the pickup...

True story> A Chevron product tanker, gas turbine. At sea off California.. The 24 volt supply to controls has indicator lamps, 24 volt miniature lamps. Engineer noticed a non-functioning lamp, went to stores, picked new lamp, tested new lamp for continuity (good), installed new lamp. Shortly after that a minor speed change which would have indicated via the new lamp (which failed to light up), and gas turbine went to idle. The new lamp, which tested (?) good, was shorted...this pulled down the control voltage and brought the throttles to idle according to design. Error> assumption that continuity verified that a incandescent lamp is "good". Error> assumption that lamps and throttle are not directly related. Eventually the snipes called the REO and he fixed the motor... (REO = radio-electronics officer)

Another GT Tanker, in Caribbean. (Near Cuba) Every time the telephone in the engine room console rang, the GT went to stop. Ship adrift. The company sent a pal of mine to gitmo by air, thence via PT boat to ship.
A similar problem, the ringer of the 'phone caused a cracked terminal block to open the 24 volt supply... 20 minutes later he was back in the re-fueled boat en route gitmo, and padding the bill!

Best!
 
I have a 75….my ig switch is different. I have red wire coming out of mine for a total of FOUR wires.
Sorry about that, The red wire is power in from the fuse. Turn the ign on and it sends power out the brown wire, R/Ywire. In park it sends volts (power as we call jt) out to the parking lights
 
With intermittent phenomena the truth table is essential. You are assuming...what? Make a list. I'd suggest that you are assuming that the problem(s) are with the wiring. Is that a valid assumption? Have you tested the fuses themselves. Question> can the factory mislabel a fuse? Can a new fuse be defective? Can a headlamp that works, also suffer intermittent shorts? Assume zero. Be a heretic, think for yourself. I just had a turn signal lamp short internally on the pickup...

True story> A Chevron product tanker, gas turbine. At sea off California.. The 24 volt supply to controls has indicator lamps, 24 volt miniature lamps. Engineer noticed a non-functioning lamp, went to stores, picked new lamp, tested new lamp for continuity (good), installed new lamp. Shortly after that a minor speed change which would have indicated via the new lamp (which failed to light up), and gas turbine went to idle. The new lamp, which tested (?) good, was shorted...this pulled down the control voltage and brought the throttles to idle according to design. Error> assumption that continuity verified that a incandescent lamp is "good". Error> assumption that lamps and throttle are not directly related. Eventually the snipes called the REO and he fixed the motor... (REO = radio-electronics officer)

Another GT Tanker, in Caribbean. (Near Cuba) Every time the telephone in the engine room console rang, the GT went to stop. Ship adrift. The company sent a pal of mine to gitmo by air, thence via PT boat to ship.
A similar problem, the ringer of the 'phone caused a cracked terminal block to open the 24 volt supply... 20 minutes later he was back in the re-fueled boat en route gitmo, and padding the bill!

Best!

Fuses aren’t mislabeled when i blow 5 in a row withiin 10mins, with 3 of them being different brands. Lol. I hear ya though 👍🏻
 
Louigi has been marooned in the middle of the pacific ocean in a liferaft with a radio when the ship he was sailing on sunk.

Luigi raises the nearest coast guard, on the radio, which is several hours away by plane.

Hello, hello. This is Louigi, can anyone hear me. My boat has sunk and I need help.

Hello louigi, yes we hear you and can pin point the area you are in from your beaken. Hang in there we will send a Fauker friendship with some supplies till someone can get to you.

Louigi; I don't need your fauker friendship, I need your fauker help
 
Fuses aren’t mislabeled when i blow 5 in a row withiin 10mins, with 3 of them being different brands. Lol. I hear ya though 👍🏻
it's just a data point in the truth table. never assume nothing. But sure, a long series is evidence. Actually testing a fuse would involve loading it with a power supply and ammeter, and a restive load. I chanced to score a variac for 50 bucks. a KW capable @ 118 vrms... anyway can cobble up a proper tester for fuses. Assumptions are the pathway to conflict. Both between mind and bike, and between mind and emotion. Pisig's book is helpful, slowly.

Muir advised burnin' one and cleaning tools while the mind settles and examines logic.
Muir> "John Muir was a structural engineer who worked for National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics, who "dropped out," 1960s-style, to become a writer and long-haired car mechanic with a garage in Taos, New Mexico, specializing in maintenance and repair of Volkswagens." The old air-cooled boxers.

Who am I to argue with the sages?
 
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