Keeps popping main fuse....

[75XSFLORIDA]

Is your 75b for sale?

Yep, $15k…or ONE bitcoin

 

[magoo66]

Nice.Thank you for replying.

 

[GLJ]

Remember: there are 2 different types of shorts.. Short to Ground, and Internally Shorted (shorted to itself).

It would take a short to ground to blow that 20 amp fuse. While it's technically possible to get a short to ground in the rotor, I've never seen a short to ground in a rotor and it's very unlikely to occur. If a short to ground did occur, I can't see how it could be intermittent. A short to ground in a rotor would have to be a wire rubbing through against the iron/steel frame that the coils are wound around, so the electrons flow directly from the winding to the metal frame, then to the crankshaft it's attached to, then to the crankcase.

It may be possible to happen on a bike where the rotor is connected directly to the battery, but on the XS650B, the voltage regulator feeds the voltage to the rotor, so it's not even connected to the battery. The regulator has resistors built into it that will restrict the voltage the rotor is even exposed to. The regulator controls the stator output by switching on and off the power fed to the rotor. If the rotor were to short out, I think it would damage the voltage regulator.

Later XS650s use a different wiring, with the rotor fed directly from the battery, and the regulator controls the stator output by switching on & off the ground circuit for the rotor. I can maybe see a way a short to ground in the rotor could blow a 20 amp fuse on that kind of system because if the short to ground occurs, the battery would try to discharge all of its 200 or whatever amps right through the rotor, blowing the fuse for sure. But again: 1. I have never seen that kind of short in a rotor, and 2. I don't believe that would ever be an intermittent short.

Still, because it's technically possible to happen, the tests in the manual have you test both rings to ground with your ohmmeter. The manual says that if you don't have continuity to ground with an ohmmeter, it's not shorted to ground.

You know sometimes you just have to do things to rule things out. Easiest way to rule out the rotor as the problem would be to put a 10 amp fuse in the brown wire going to the regulator. Do it at the connector going to the regulator so it only protects the reg/rotor.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

You know sometimes you just have to do things to rule things out. Easiest way to rule out the rotor as the problem would be to put a 10 amp fuse in the brown wire going to the regulator. Do it at the connector going to the regulator so it only protects the reg/rotor.

I want to put it in line fuse there, but I don’t want to cut any of the factory wiring or splice into it any kind of way. I know it’s not possible to do it without splicing…unless ya have a trick

 

[bosco659]

Looks to me that pretty soon there won’t be a lot of help offered, but I could be wrong .

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Looks to me that pretty soon there won’t be a lot of help offered, but I could be wrong .

Yea you’re very wrong! Just like all the help that you’ve offered so far!

 

[jpdevol]

it without splicing…unless ya have a trick

Std. inline fuse holder with a male bullet connector on one end, female on the other??

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Std. inline fuse holder with a male bullet connector on one end, female on the other??

Yeah, but I still have to cut the brown wire to put this connector in. I was trying to avoid cutting….should I cut the brown wire right here where my fingers at, or the left side of the picture, the brown wire at the main harness side?

 

[jpdevol]

Could start in the headlight bucket with the various sub-circuits: Brown, R/Y, R/W with bullets. And, if needed, make the same deal with spade connectors at the connector shown (regulator) - the blocks and terminals are available @ Mikes, maybe Autozone

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Could start in the headlight bucket with the various sub-circuits: Brown, R/Y, R/W with bullets. And, if needed, make the same deal with spade connectors at the connector shown (regulator) - the blocks and terminals are available @ Mikes, maybe Autozone

Yea makes sense. I have plenty connectors and spades

 

[Jan_P]

I got to hand it to you ..you have stamina.. You are not a quitter Respect

Remember: there are 2 different types of shorts.. Short to Ground, and Internally Shorted (shorted to itself).

hahahahaha --> shorted to itself hahahahaha
Yes Sir I have had electrical problems on XS 650 s crap wiring 40 years .Now I see what I have done wrong.
Missed that entirely hahahaha Shorted to itself " hahahaha

That clinches it for me i will try to help you

 

[jpdevol]

Internally Shorted (shorted to itself)

in the case of windings only

 

[Jan_P]

So we have progress on the extra fuses
Should not need to cut any wires .
Which one are we going for and where ?

is it # 103 GLJ

Does anyone know if it is a stock wiring and have a Schematic.
How you all feel about disconnectng the starter and relay for that ?

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

I got to hand it to you ..you have stamina.. You are not a quitter Respect

Remember: there are 2 different types of shorts.. Short to Ground, and Internally Shorted (shorted to itself).

hahahahaha --> shorted to itself hahahahaha
Yes Sir I have had electrical problems on XS 650 s crap wiring 40 years .Now I see what I have done wrong.
Missed that entirely hahahaha Shorted to itself " hahahaha

That clinches it for me i will try to help you

Ok smartie have you never seen windings in a coil short out against each other, changing the resistance of the coil before??????? Happens all the time with ignition coils.

The rotor is just a large coil of wire wound around a steel core. It's a very uncommon problem to have, but that's why they have you test the resistance between the two rings, because that does happen!! so I have no idea why you decided to laugh.
You should tell Yamaha that they have an unnecessary test in their manual.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

So we have progress on the extra fuses
Should not need to cut any wires .
Which one are we going for and where ?

is it # 103 GLJ

Does anyone know if it is a stock wiring and have a Schematic.
How you all feel about disconnectng the starter and relay for that ?

Ya

in the case of windings only

EXACTLY!!!!

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Std. inline fuse holder with a male bullet connector on one end, female on the other??

Looking at the schematic, I can see i should be putting the fuse on the green wire, not the brown. The regulator is on the far left on the bottom. The green wire goes over to the rotor part of the generator.

I have circled the rotor part of the generator in blue. You can see the power goes in through the green wire through the windings, and then out through the black wire to ground.

The schematic does not show the brushes.

Where did you get the few should go at the brown wire from????

 

[Jan_P]

Ok smartie have you never seen windings in a coil short out against each other, changing the resistance of the coil before??????? Happens all the time with ignition coils.

The rotor is just a large coil of wire wound around a steel core. It's a very uncommon problem to have, but that's why they have you test the resistance between the two rings, because that does happen!! so I have no idea why you decided to laugh.
You should tell Yamaha that they have an unnecessary test in their manual.

DC current can be viewed like the water hose in the garden There is a flow so to speak
From plus to minus in this case ground Zero

All current in the machine goes between the high and the low So for the fuse to blow there has to be a lower resistance in the circuit
What you probably is talking about is a winding that stock has say 400 windings and that resistance R1
By age and vibrations say 350 of them is bypassed in the rotor but in order for the fuse to blow there still has to be a connection to ground
Completing the circuit.

It does not matter at all even if you have a wire only and the fuse for a short circuit it must be full from + 12 V to 0
Not connwcred to ground no short circuit no current

 

[jpdevol]

Yeah, but I still have to cut the brown wire to put this connector in.

Where did you get the few should go at the brown wire from????

IDKit depends on what you're testing for..... The green wire derives its power from the brown wire BTW

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

DC current can be viewed like the water hose in the garden There is a flow so to speak
From plus to minus in this case ground Zero

All current in the machine goes between the high and the low So for the fuse to blow there has to be a lower resistance in the circuit
What you probably is talking about is a winding that stock has say 400 windings and that resistance R1
By age and vibrations say 350 of them is bypassed in the rotor but in order for the fuse to blow there still has to be a connection to ground
Completing the circuit.

It does not matter at all even if you have a wire only and the fuse for a short circuit it must be full from + 12 V to 0
Not connwcred to ground no short circuit no current

Exactly. I’m talking about the windings in the rotor.

 

[Jan_P]

Looking at the schematic, I can see i should be putting the fuse on the green wire, not the brown. The regulator is on the far left on the bottom. The green wire goes over to the rotor part of the generator.

I have circled the rotor part of the generator in blue. You can see the power goes in through the green wire through the windings, and then out through the black wire to ground.

The schematic does not show the brushes.

Where did you get the few should go at the brown wire from????

Yes the fuse on the green can sense what the rotor get