Keeps popping main fuse....

Unfortunately, as someone else noted , your meter will not read enough Amps to test the rotor. You need one that will read at least 10 ounce. You can pick one up at Lowe’s or Home Depot for about 30 -$40.

Doing this test I’m only getting 0.19amps and that is when I’m revving the bike. If I do not rev the bike I get nothing on the meter…. Also, if I do not start the bike and just put the key on like you said, I get nothing on the meter.
 
You know sometimes you just have to do things to rule things out. Easiest way to rule out the rotor as the problem would be to put a 10 amp fuse in the brown wire going to the regulator. Do it at the connector going to the regulator so it only protects the reg/rotor.

NOT the brown wire….the GREEN wire!
 

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The only short the green wire may detect is the to the brush and the rotor. The brown at that connector would also include the regulator itself. The brown in the headlight bucket a whole bunch of short locations: depends on what ya wanna test for......
 
Doing this test I’m only getting 0.19amps and that is when I’m revving the bike. If I do not rev the bike I get nothing on the meter…. Also, if I do not start the bike and just put the key on like you said, I get nothing on the meter.

Not sure what you are talking about there but we are with the fuse --- experimenting --- the extra use will blow ... if not --- the 20 A will blow again We try to narrow it down
 
Not sure what you are talking about there but we are with the fuse --- experimenting --- the extra use will blow ... if not --- the 20 A will blow again We try to narrow it down

Talking about this test here….not getting 2.25amps
 

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The only short the green wire may detect is the to the brush and the rotor. The brown at that connector would also include the regulator itself. The brown in the headlight bucket a whole bunch of short locations: depends on what ya wanna test for......

What if that’s the case should I put the fuse at the brown wire on the regulator side and not the green wire?? Why not test all the components if I’m going to do it. It just looked to me like the green wire makes more sense.
 
I'm just a dumb hilljack, but me, I'd start at the begining of the brown circuit in the headlight bucket (unless I was testing reg. rotor only) and then -progressively - work toward the remaining circuit. Assuming the brown circuit blew the test fuse at all
 
I'm just a dumb hilljack, but me, I'd start at the begining of the brown circuit in the headlight bucket (unless I was testing reg. rotor only) and then -progressively - work toward the remaining circuit. Assuming the brown circuit blew the test fuse at all

Yeah, probably smarter to start all the way up front. Also, that way I don’t even have to build a jumper harness, I can just use simple bullet connectors with an in-line fuse.
 
What if that’s the case should I put the fuse at the brown wire on the regulator side and not the green wire?? Why not test all the components if I’m going to do it. It just looked to me like the green wire makes more sense.

More than one way to do it I feel it more secure to test one at a time or few
If the extra fuse blows on the green and the rotors are prone to have problems It is finished
If many aspects are involved one has the problem thinking again
But there are many ways to do it

Regarding # 130 skip that for now. It seems to be a heat dependent problem so cold measurement wont say much
 
? Separating regulator connector 3 wires in between one with the fuse perhaps

For now I’m gonna make it simpler and just buy an in-line fuse that already has two male bullets on it and start and the headlight bucket at the ignition switch brown wire. I’ll see what happens after that.
 

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NOT the brown wire….the GREEN wire!
No you Jack-A-Loaf. The Brown. You want to divide and concur. If the fuse blows then you know it's in the regulator, rotor or their wiring. If the main blows then you've ruled them out. Now that will not rule out the rectifier.
I will bow out of this since you seem more interested in questioning help than actually doing anything.
 
No you Jack-A-Loaf. The Brown. You want to divide and concur. If the fuse blows then you know it's in the regulator, rotor or their wiring. If the main blows then you've ruled them out. Now that will not rule out the rectifier.
I will bow out of this since you seem more interested in questioning help than actually doing anything.

You jack a NUT, you would know if your regulator had a short to ground I think.

Brown wire is going to throw off the charging voltage. That wire is the wire the regulator uses to sense the battery voltage, so it knows how much power to send out through the green wire to control the magnetic field created in the rotor. If you add connections in line to it, the regulator will think the battery voltage is lower than it actually is!!!! Jaxk a nut! 🤣🤣🤣
 
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