My custom project so far, almost one year in.

Twin's,
I used 2 of them, went in easy enough, but did have to ream both.The guide driver from them also work's well. I had to put intake valves on mine, as I bent one when the keeper broke. I replaced both with the stock one's, although I did debate on whether or not go with the stainless.
 
Gordon said:
An accurate 6" caliper & a 1" micrometer is all you really need.
Click to expand...

Well, if you want to mic your bores, I'd recommend a set of telescoping bore gauges too. The inexpensive ones are cheap enough. I think I paid about $15 for the set I have, and they work fine.

And a set of feeler gauges. Everybody needs feeler gauges.
 
Greetings again!

As I figured, the combustion chamber is heavily fouled; carb problems, running rich and bad gas is what I'm guessing.

I've heard a thousand different things, but what is the best way to get rid of all this crud out of my combustion chamber? piston? best way to clean the cylinder walls?

How do my jugs look? Pictures related.

40047_692264903564_14310932_39302415_1879292_n.jpg


38634_692264913544_14310932_39302416_5780073_n.jpg


It was very dry carbon fouling, it's oily because I wiped it down with penetrating fluid.

35969_692265003364_14310932_39302429_8124730_n.jpg


39823_692264878614_14310932_39302412_1375538_n.jpg


40308_692264898574_14310932_39302414_8107113_n.jpg


everything will be mic'd when I get a chance, I kind of just tore it apart and left to go to work.

Thanks in advance as always xs650.com
 
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Hard to tell from pics no matter how good but the cylinders look a little rough. Do they pass the fingernail test? (will your fingernail slide over what appears to be scrapes) or are they less than they look to be. Looks like the top ring took the brunt of the carbon build up. I would want to mike the barrels, it may be time for a first oversize. But I am just an armchair engine guy. The amount of carbon looks normal to me.
 
Twin's,
G.G. is correct on all count's.That is not allot of carbon. To clean the carbon out of the head, use some brake clean to 'dry' up the wet oil, then a wire brush in a drill is ok, just go easy so not to scrape off too much aluminium. The valve's don't look bad, but can't really see them all. Those can also be cleaned with a wire wheel on a benck grinder. They are very hard, so you won't damage them. If the fingernail test reveal's score damage, a first over bore is probably needed. But DO NOT order piston's & such until the cylinder's are checked out! There could be a big taper to them requiring more of a bore to clean them up. It appears to be in worthy shape for a top end rebuild.
 
Good ol' Simple Green works wonders for carbon fouling. You just have to be patient with it. Submerge the parts you want cleaned in it, and let them sit -- sometimes for up to a week -- and they will be virtually spotless when you remove them.

I'd follow Gordon's advice on the bores. They may look worse than they actually are. Both my '78 and '77's cylinders looked like this when I opened them up. But I don't really have any plans to go back with stock bores on either motor, so for me it's a non-issue.
 
The cylinder walls def don't catch my fingernail, the lines are feel almost non-existent, almost perfectly smooth. I'm going to be bringing my cylinders to my buddy's garage to be diagnosed...I'll be taking the valves out for examination soon, found my valve compressor tool. Nice.
 
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Hey guys, the bike is (hopefully) getting stitched up today. The motor is back into the frame so it's time to connect all the doodads.

Here's a questions though:

What is the torque specifications for the oil filter plate bolts (the 6 small bolts, not the drain plug)? I can't seem to find it in the haynes or on google...I don't want to strip them, but it feels like the bolts aren't tightening...
 
The bolts for the sump plate are designed with a weak spot just under the head. They are this way because when some heavy handed mechanic over tightens them the bolts break before the threads strip out of the case.
The threads can "pull" a bit, this will raise a ring of metal around the bolt holes. This ring can keep the sump plate from properly seating on the case, causing leaks. The ring can be removed easily.
This same ring around a hole can keep the carb holders from sealing. On the cam chain adjuster, where it meets the jugs. Most any where two parts come together. So if you find a leak, check for the ring.
 
XSLeo said:
The ring can be removed easily.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup:

Then you leave us hanging. I tend to use a file anytime I am reassembling gasket sealed surfaces which quickly shows up and removes high spots from thread rings, pry bars, and what ever else may have disturbed the flat surface. Lay it on the surface and gently slide it across in different directions. any high spots will grab the file and show themselves quickly. Easy does it is key doing this. Do not remove excess material.
Do you do something different?
 
That, or a large drill bit if I can't find my countersink. A very sharp cold chisel powered by hand. My pocket knife in a pinch. Most any way to remove the ring without hurting the surface around it.
 
44419_696512007334_14310932_39467873_2704797_n.jpg


So I just made one of those homemade manometers out of a yard stick, pvc tubing and zip ties. Boyo, my carbs were off by a ton. Now I'm fine tuning the idle mixtures, should be dialed in soon; just taking a break from the SUN.:D

I'm in the middle of reworking my battery tray and plan on aluminum side covers...I'll take photos of what I come up with...Haven't checked to see if my charging problem is fully fixed...
 
Update:

Finally sorted out my charging issues, turns out I left out the brown wire to from the key switch to the rotor brush disconnected:doh:. Getting a very health charge now.

I took it for it's first run without worrying about mixture/balance of the carburetors and without worrying about the charging. Boy did that feel great.

Going to VT for a couple days before I come back to finish the battery box and the side covers. After that, comes convincing my g/f to take some pictures :D.
 
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Made it to and fro Rice-O-Rama without a hiccup today. 120mi round trip on rebuilt engine and it did quite well. Besides some shoulder pain I made out okay too. Met Gordon Scott and put in my vote for it absurdly awesome XS Sidecar rig. LOTS of bikes, way more than last year.

Snapped a couple shots inside:

60004_702681678264_14310932_39678727_6262275_n.jpg

47718_702681653314_14310932_39678726_4238092_n.jpg

47531_702681688244_14310932_39678728_7551936_n.jpg

Big bikes:
47436_702681703214_14310932_39678729_5457690_n.jpg

Second coolest sidecar rig:
47103_702681758104_14310932_39678732_5351367_n.jpg


Here's my xs after the trip, side covers aren't finished:

57924_702682092434_14310932_39678734_6875658_n.jpg


This ride made me realize:

I need a tachometer for sure. I also need a new a starter switch on the handle bars, maybe a new throttle with switches, kicking the bike gets tiring or I'm getting old. I have a squeak in my forks, emulators and new springs, something is making the noise. I need turn signals. I need a louder horn. I might consider relocating my foot pegs. My XS handles like a dream.
 

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