Chain Noise

SlowMaintenance

'76 XS650 Chopper
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Hey guys, took the bike out for a spin this weekend and put in a good 75 miles without any breakdowns. Happy to say she's riding well and under her own power. That being said, I wanted to give her a good check once I got home to make sure everything was still where it needs to be.

I realized that the chain was quite loose and was likely the cause of the slight rocking front to back that would occur on deceleration. To tighten it up I had to remove an additional link as I was out of adjustment room in the axle plates.

I pulled the chain, popped out the extra link and put it back on with an inch of freedplay measured on the bottom at the center point between the sprockets. When checking to see if it spun freely though, I noticed a strange clunking noise coming from the front sprocket area with the bike in neutral, on a stand, spinning by hand. If I loosen the chain, the noise goes away but the free play is way too much.

I've got the same alignment spacers I had in there before, but I did recently switch from a 34T rear sprocket to a 31 tooth replacement sprocket from Mikes. The ride I did this weekend was on that sprocket and she ran WAY better than with the stock sprocket which is geared so low I can't imagine how anyone can use it.

Either way though, I've got a new-this-year 530 gold chain from TC bros on the bike. Here's a link to each of the components if important to see.

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-sprocket-steel-31t-x-530-rear-oem-256-25430-20.html

http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/530-g...MI2oXQzueO1gIViEwNCh08ZwNkEAQYASABEgLnm_D_BwE

I've noticed that the chain has one link that's a little tight. I'm assuming this is the issue. Is there any way to clean a link that's sticking? The chain hasn't even seen 100 miles and it was brand new when I put it on so I can't imagine that it's toast already.

Any feedback you've got would be appreciated, thanks.
 
I know this is super basic stuff and I'm a heathen for not knowing it by now, but as far as cleaning is concerned is kerosene the number one method for that? This is my first chain drive motorcycle and the advice threads are all over the board to where it's hard to know what to take and what to leave.

As I've read it, clean it with kerosene, scrub it with one of those scrubby brushes, another coat of kerosene, wipe dry. Then lube with any lube product. I'll take any recommendations you've got on those too, at the risk of starting a "which oil brand should I use" nightmare type discussion haha.
 
"I've got a new-this-year 530 gold chain from TC bros "

Looked at your link, looks like a non-oring chain. So, kerosene, or even gasoline to clean it. But, if it's not really dirty, you could just find the tight link, and just clean that part, then inspect. Maybe it'll loosen up from that simple procedure...
 
I know this is super basic stuff and I'm a heathen for not knowing it by now, but as far as cleaning is concerned is kerosene the number one method for that? This is my first chain drive motorcycle and the advice threads are all over the board to where it's hard to know what to take and what to leave.
As I've read it, clean it with kerosene, scrub it with one of those scrubby brushes, another coat of kerosene, wipe dry. Then lube with any lube product. I'll take any recommendations you've got on those too, at the risk of starting a "which oil brand should I use" nightmare type discussion haha.

Hi Slow,
didja put on a new front sprocket too? Not saying the old front sprocket is making the noise but for sure it'll be wearing out that new chain PDQ.
After you've worked the new chain's stiff spot loose again, a soak'n'scrub with kerosene is as good a way as any to clean it.
Us geriatrics fondly remember the can of Linklyfe Moly/Graphite chain wax that you carefully melt on the stove, lift the second chain out to drip-dry and
install after you've lowered the newly cleaned original chain in to let it set up until the next chain oiling time.
Anyone know if you can still get the stuff?
These days it's best to install a Scottoiler to continuously dribble oil onto the chain. Us cheapskates refill the thing with chainsaw bar oil
at 1/10th the cost of Scottoiler's propriatory chain oil and reckon there's no difference between them.
Also, sealed chains keep the lube inside the links so it can't get out to lube the roller/sprocket interface so it's even more important to
have a system to keep it lubed and a Scottoiler is best for that job too.
 
if that Link in the chain refuses to loosen up by cleaning it and working it with your fingers you may need to widen the link a bit by using carefull
whacks with a hammer and punch and or a screw driver sideways between the links to spread it a tiny amount.
I had a series of about 6 links on a bikes chain get real hard to move one time about 55 years ago.... being a Kid I tried everything but ended up using a large screw driver in between the links and drove it in with a hammer on the vice ....the chain was at 90 degrees to the jaws in the vice so the links had support only the screwdriver went down between the jaws of the vice. i did that on each of the tight links that freed the chain up just fine.... got a gillion miles out of a chain that should have been replaced when I got the bike ! LOL
.....
thank you for the Info on the 31 tooth for the Rear... I've been wondering about that and I know the 34 tooth is far too small for my riding !
eventually I plan to get one of those ! thank you !
.....
Bob.......
 
Great tips! Will definitely consider that widening if I can't seem to free it up. I do a lot of work on it while it's outside so I'm sure theres some dirt and grime gunking up that chain by now. Such is life for a 27 year old in the northeastern US. Garage space ain't cheap!

I'll pick up a chain brush as well and hopefully after an hour she's back to spinning freely.

I also gotta try that neat trick of loosening the axle and applying the rear brake. Never heard that before and my rear brake is godawful right now so I'll take any tricks I can to get it right before I get her back on the road with a clean chain.
 
The 650 rear drum isn't very good, certainly not enough to be the only brake on the bike. I've had 3 different rear wheels on mine over the years, some with stock shoes, some with aftermarket. None were good enough to act alone for a complete stop from a higher speed. They add a little assistance to the front brake is all. They were fine for a complete stop from walking speeds, that's about it, lol.
 
Yea it's definitely feeling that way. I saw someone put an XL250 front end in some XS trees with that 21" drum on it and it looked pretty damn slick. Considering giving that a shot over the winter. I really don't want to put a big ugly master cylinder on these little bars.

Here's a similar shot cause I couldn't find the original one, this appears to have stock XS forks on it though based on that drum stay.

https://www.google.com/search?q=xs6...AUICygC&biw=1242&bih=580#imgrc=ZcH84EQ9lrZKqM:
 
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