1974yamahaxs650
XS650 Member
I have a 74' xs650. I'm in the process of trying to restore and I was wondering what you old pros have to say as to the best way to go about bringing back the surface of the engine.
If your not too worried about keeping the finish stock, I have been playing around with Cerakote on areas where heat dissipation is needed. It’s a coating called glacier black and it’s meant for industrial turbocharger applications (so it really works well). I tried it out on my old cb450 clutch cover and will be using it on all cylinders and heads, they also have coatings meant to contain heat that I will try on some exhaust pipes.
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In general, be careful with abrasive blasting media on the housing. At least it shouldn't be overdone here. Cavities in the aluminum casting that are connected to oil channels can be exposed. This spot marked with flour (to the left of the bolt with the cap nut removed)) shows the situation 1 minute after complete degreasing:
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It took me a long time to find the reason for the oil puddles and the constantly oily engine and even longer to close the leak on the blasted housing : (
The best looking finish I have seen was presented by @cra-z1. He used stainless wire media in his blaster. I am probably mis-quoting the product he uses, but if you have seen some of his restoration work you will see what I am talking about.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/to-blast-or-not-to-blast.51476/#post-540428
Pretty much the routine is clean and polish for these old girls. Some guys repaint, some not. Lacquer on the cases has to be stripped off and cases polished although there are a few companies that will redo the cases in clear or matte. I was able to get deep in the fins with a gun cleaning brush. You can get them in brass so they don’t scratch. There are lots of quality rattle can finishes out there as well.
Awesome looking Sporty!I bought a cheap facial scrubber off Amazon and used mothers on my cases, beats little circles by hand.
It took a few applications to get the bulk of oxidation off then I finished it off by hand.
Now it's Flintz by hand just to keep up. This is after 3 years and it gets better every time.
I'll do the same to my 650 when it's time.
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There is a misconception about vapor blasting, think of it as wet sanding as opposed to dry sanding; it is still blasting.I don't see how vapor blasting is good for any internal part of the carb or places where you want a smooth flat surface like where the vacuum seals are, the inside of the carb throat where the throttle plate is, where the CV cylinder rides up and down, where gaskets mate. The blasting I've seen leaves a textured surface.
I don't see how vapor blasting is good for any internal part of the carb or places where you want a smooth flat surface like where the vacuum seals are, the inside of the carb throat where the throttle plate is, where the CV cylinder rides up and down, where gaskets mate. The blasting I've seen leaves a textured surface.
That is the thing I think people might be missing. I"ve seen fakebook posts of vapor blasting carbs and they did the inside of the bowls and the entire outside of the carb and inside.You mask the surfaces you don’t want blasted. Not too difficult.