Which wideband sensors are you using? where do you install the bungs?
Wideband oxygen sensors provide a stable fuel mixture reading for someone to use for tuning purposes. They report the exact air to fuel ratio left after combustion.What are wideband sensors?
Thanks for the post. I ordered an innovate unit and was also thinking about mounting the guage next to the tachometer and recording on video the two readings side by side. I am thinking about mounting bungs on the headers. While that may impact aesthetics, it is a sacrifice I am willing to make. What is your feedback on the cone engineering units you have in the picture? how loud are they at idle and moderate speed?https://www.14point7.com/products/sigma-lambda-controller-free-2
This one comes highly recommended from a lot of folks. I have one and it works a treat. Only downside is that it can't do logging out of the box.
Innovate makes a pretty popular unit as well. They have a "pocket logger" https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/pl-1-pocket-logger-kit.html option to use with their standard kit.
For the bikes, I use a clamp on mount for the sensor in one of the tailpipes (pics attached from my goldwing). I clamp the gauge to the bars, then setup my phone to video the wideband & tachometer (i have a small digital tach to make this easier to read). Then i will run a microphone up under the helmet so i can record my observations. The trick is to find a long road with little traffic (ideally with a slight incline) and leave it in like 3rd or 4th gear and do a pull. That way you can log the whole RPM range under a stead loading condition.
Then when you're done, go analyze the footage and make notes. If you see the RPM range where it's having issues, you can typically make changes to just those circuits. Couple this with some plug chops during the ride (if possible) and you should be able to get it dialed in pretty well without having to pony up for a dyno session.
Really?That would intimate these bikes are fuel injected, which they aren't, so O2 bungs would serve no purpose
Was thinking about mounting right before the headers first bend away from the headWide range(band) need 700°F to operate properly.
Internal heater may get cooled off at the tailpipe.
Always turn them on before starting to pre-heat. Otherwise thermal shock will kill em. Especially cold start moisture(water drops)
cliff
thanks for your post Gary. I have exact same headers. Any reason for why 18" away? I am hoping to at first use an "analog" approach where I just aim my phone camera (the phone mounted on a holder) onto the rpm and AFR guages and record a video while riding. Will try to make a few steady runs at a set rpm.Messed around with an innovate, there's a thread in here somewhere's put the bungs about 18" from the engine.
Didn't get much out of it. My suspicion is that a single "low" RPM cylinder is going to have such a variation in exhaust mix in the pipe as to make the sensor widely erratic. That was my experience anyways.
Could have been an error on my part.
PS you really need a logger cuz trying to read gauge with the throttle whacked open on a motorbike on public roads may not be good for a long (rider's) life.
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Seems like I researched it when I did it and that was a "Best compromise" of function, sensor install access, not obnoxious obvious, when plugged location?Any reason for why 18" away?
Well, for carb tuning they definitely will .....That would intimate these bikes are fuel injected, which they aren't, so O2 bungs would serve no purpose
read that the closer to the head the better. Here is also an exhaust from S&S for a royal enfield. Most important though is to not be close to any leaky joints between the headers, collectors and mufflersSeems like I researched it when I did it and that was a "Best compromise" of function, sensor install access, not obnoxious obvious, when plugged location?
what is happening at the bend?6" is optimum
Jim is right with O2 mixing. 6" will negate those fears, unless at the bend in the pipe. 18" or so may be only alt.
cliff