18T Counter Sprocket Ok?

[jay760]

I've never had issues with loose chains, the 760 has a crap chain that seems to stretch constantly, and never had a clearance issue, the 710 has an o-ring chain also with no issues,

When I first fitted the 18 tooth, I didn't see mikesxs had 32 rears, if he even did them at the time.The euro standards have 33 rear antway so 32 wouldn't make much differance

 

[nj1639]

18/32 on mine now, was running 17/30.
17/30 works fine and I would continue with that ratio- however, the last time I changed out sprockets and chain, 18/32 is what I had on hand. No clearance issues but a constant check on the chain is required and no more so than normal.

 

[jamesgs4]

I run an 18/32 with a 520 o-ring chain. My shaft guard is still inside the case, just shortened the bracket to reposition it slightly. It is close to the pushrod, but it doesn't touch. I just installed a 30 rear, but I havent put my bike together yet so no idea on how that combo works.

 

[bluebikerblan]

I run an 18/32 with a 520 o-ring chain. My shaft guard is still inside the case, just shortened the bracket to reposition it slightly. It is close to the pushrod, but it doesn't touch. I just installed a 30 rear, but I havent put my bike together yet so no idea on how that combo works.

Good luck to you James......hope you're a light weight... at your mile hi elevation and that sprocket ratio, you might struggle a bit getting out of the hole. I'm an old chunker, live at similar elevation in the mountains and always felt like I was stuck in the mud with the 18T. Do let us know how it goes for you.

Damn that 18T drive sprocket! Blue

 

[Newagerocker]

18T counter shaft sprockets are cheaper than 32T rear sprockets.

 

[nj1639]

jimmythetrucker?

 

[weekendrider]

Blue that is the disclaimer (his size) John used when he advocated the 18/29.
People of substantial girth might not like it.

nj1639, hope not

 

[bluebikerblan]

Blue that is the disclaimer (his size) John used when he advocated the 18/29.
People of substantial girth might not like it.

nj1639, hope not

Indeed. He told me once that I didn't need a 17T.....I needed liposuction!

 

[xjwmx]

From a clock geek website :

"With an "integer ratio", the same pairs of teeth (gear/pinion) always mesh on each revolution. With a non-integer ratio, each pass puts a different pair of teeth in mesh. (Some fractional ratios are also called a "hunting ratio" because a given tooth "hunts" the other gear.)"

~~~~~~~~~~

I believe what he means by integer ratio would be a ratio which when expressed as a fraction reduces to a whole number. Like 36:18 would reduce to the integer 2., 36:17 would reduce to a number larger than 2 but smaller than 3, not an integer.

 

[XSLeo]

I have never ran an 18 on the front.
I have used 17 up front with a 34, 32 and 30 on the rear.
For all highway running the 30 on the rear is ok.
All intown running the 34 is ok.
The 32 is a good all around sprocket.
I think the 18 on front would pull to hard on the lower end. Working the clutch too hard.
I think the 17/30 works the clutch too hard.
For most riders I think the 17/32 will be about the best option.
Even with the same ratio, a 17/32 and a 18/34, I have talked to some people that the 18/34 works different than 17/32. They claim the leverage you get with the 17 tooth is better than the leverage you get with an 18 tooth.
I think there may be something too that.
The 18 is larger, the distance from the center of the shaft to the center of the chain is longer than on the 17. This longer length makes it harder for the engine to pull the chain.
It may not be much but it may be noticable.

 

[rwingsfan]

Actually that is the combo I just ordered 17/32.

 

[bluebikerblan]

From a clock geek website :
I believe what he means by integer ratio would be a ratio which when expressed as a fraction reduces to a whole number. Like 36:18 would reduce to the integer 2., 36:17 would reduce to a number larger than 2 but smaller than 3, not an integer.

Food for thought..............

Would make one wonder about the wisdom of certain sprocket combinations and chain lengths. Say like 18T drive with a 36T rear and a 108 link chain?

18 + 36 = 54 x 2 = 108

17 + 34 = 51 x 2 = 102 (not that a 102 fits OEM swingarm distance)

Back in the day rule was to avoid repeating combinations of same tooth to link repeaters to minimize chain stretch and maximize wear and life. Or something like that?

Damn, where's that # 9 guru when you need him?

17T & 32T = good choice redwings fan!

 

[xjwmx]

Out of curiosity and because I'm iced in, I made a 5-pointed gear and a 6-pointed gear. I turned the left one counter-clockwise and the right one clockwise, being careful to keep the teeth engaged. It looks like every revolution will put the next pair of teeth in contact until it will be back where it started after six revs of the 5-pointed gear. Now I'll go hang them on the tree...

 

[Travis]

^ yep, but add a chain to the mix and that doesn't matter anymore. What's important how many links are in the chain and how many teeth are on the sprocket.

You have to think about each sprocket individually. If the number of links on the chain is a multiple of the number teeth on your sprocket, then the teeth on the sprocket will always link up with the same set of links. How many links it links up with depends on the multiple number.

For example: 108 link chain, 36 tooth sprocket. 108/36=3

So each tooth will always contact the same 3 links with every full rotation of the chain.

Where both sprockets come and into play is determining the chain length (from the distance between the sprockets, their sizes, and how much slop you need to allow for swingarm travel).

Now, after all that, I'm not sure it really even matters!

 

[xjwmx]

Now, after all that, I'm not sure it really even matters!

You'd have to know up front what badnesses to avoid, e.g. is it really bad if the same parts always mate up? Then figure out how to avoid them.

The thing I cut out, I think if the right had been larger by two teeth instead of one, then it would have lagged the left by two instead of one. Then if the number of teeth on the right was not divisible by two, all the teeth would eventually mesh. And so on.

One big difference with a chain connecting the two gears is the gears turn the same direction Might be easiest to think of them as wheels rather than toothed sprockets. There are lots of formulas dealing with what wheels (rotating circles) do.

 

[blue900]

I have the 520 o-ring chain 18/33 on My 81, shaft guard removed. My commute is 50miles round trip per day. I ride as much as I can, Spring summer Fall. I usually get 6000 about miles a year on the bike. I've kept the chain lubed weekly and adjusted as needed. My Riding is 95% flat strait roads at 55.
I rode with the stock 530 17/34 for 2 yrs.

The 18/33 made the bike much more fun to ride. Retarded timing a bit made it even better.
Its ready for a new chain now and will replace the sprockets also. I will probably go to a 32 on the back to make it a bit smoother on the highway.

I like to be able to take it on the gravel and dirt if needed, then i miss stock gearing but that's not often. I've thought about the Higher 5th gear mod, that may be the ticket.

Its all a compromise.

Rex I still have you on my list to visit!

 

[xjwmx]

I like to be able to take it on the gravel and dirt if needed, then i miss stock gearing

What happens with 18/33 on gravel and dirt?

 

[blue900]

When Going slow, 1st is kinda high for going slow = Low engine rpm.
Not much suspension for rough stuff. So slow is the ticket for me.

 

[xjwmx]

I see. I've always assumed mine are stock but I need to count them up. I do okay on gravel and highway both.

 

[gentlemanjim]

17:30:520 "O" ring chain. Perfect set up no issues, readily available, no vibraton, good acceleration. Just do it and live happily ever after.