1970 xs650 rebuild or restoration

[Lazybones]

Hi all,

I am considering embarking on a journey to rebuild or restore an xs650 and want to have some advice on how much I should expect to pay for parts to have it restored. I have one in my garage that I have the opportunity to purchase. I intend to do the majority of the work myself. Before I commit to buying it I want to have a bit of a ballpark figure on how much it’s going to cost me to get it up and running.
I understand that it’s probably hard for someone to know exactly what will appear until you start pulling things apart, but what should I expect as best vs worst case cost scenario.
Not much is known about the history of the machine, although I did hear that the electrics are dodgy. I can also see that the brake fluid reservoir is leaking and has corroded components in its vicinity (possibly the cause of the dodgy electrics?) I also suspect that it wasn’t stored with a full tank (so I am anticipating rust).
I’m guessing I’ll also need new carbys.

I’m in Australia, let me know which currency is your reference point.

cheers!

 

[650Skull]

Hey Lazybones.......don't know what you hope to get done with that name..

First off is to check the vin #'s.

I see a 73 Tank. and a 447 engine.

The engine no is for a 76C. This is a good thing easier and cheaper to get parts if needed.

Right hand bar switch is off a later model as well...........Pics of other switch.

Defiantly an early frame, 70-73. The frame, guards and wheels are from the 70-73 models. Only a vin no will determine what year, but with the 76 engine and bar switch there is a chance the wiring has been changed as well. 73 had a Decompression lever that doubled as an electric start. Only on the 72/73 bikes, it was attached through the 4 stud tappet cover.

from what i see with the VM carbs, new gaskets around the tappet cover, no oil leaks, the bike looks tidy and clean. The oxidization on the right bar switch is an easy fix, sand and paint. If it was a mikesXS one they tend to do that.

As for how much will it cost...........heaps if you buy all your stuff from GeofsXS...... Before buying make a list and ask on here. Lots of XS parts suppliers and sometimes it is cheaper to buy from overseas.

More pics that cover other parts of the bike. From the rear, the dash, left bar switch and the front brake system showing the caliper, rotor and the fork.

Front brake system is important. On the 72 XS2, it is a one year only set up. Can be rebuilt but has quirks and needs to be identified.

 

[GLJ]

The front end is newer than 73 also. No upper cinch bolt till after 73.

 

[650Skull]

Yes and the ignition switch looks to be off a Special............

I say rebuild but it looks like it has been done well already and just needs to be sorted. Electrics and make sure power is where it is supposed to be try to do a start.

Question is, has it been running and if not when was the last time??

Honestly i think it has great bones......allen head screws have been added to the bar switch........these small things point to some who cares

 

[GLJ]

I think you could make into a nice rider. To restore it back to original you better have deep pockets.

 

[Lazybones]

This is all great advice thank you

 

[Lazybones]

The vin number is s650206052, a 1973 tx650

You’re right that it’s clean, no leaks.

I’m not sure when the engine was last turned over. I’m guessing at least 2 years ago. Maybe 5. I don’t have much history to go on unfortunately. It was definitely running, but had issues with electrics and wouldn’t have passed roadworthy. I think the indicators were working sporadically, if at all.

I’m not looking to get it to showroom shine, my pockets aren’t deep enough to justify it.

I’ve included a few more photos, let me know if there’s any more angles to cover.

Thanks again

 

[650Skull]

At a guess id say that is a triumph seat.........

Real bitsa but as a whole everything that has been done, is for the better.........it all looks clean, a spit and polish and it will come up good....

Indicators playing up is usually low battery, (cant rule out the relay), and the low battery can be a charging problem............Going to need to do some diagnostics. start at the rotor. Age and neglect can cause the rotor to fail. Good place to start

remove the brushes and set the mufti meter to the lowest Ohm setting and touch each slip ring with the probes..........Should read around 5ohms down to 4.5. to much lower and the rotor is on its way out. ..............As long as the battery is good, holds a charge and passes a load test, then if the rotor doesn't test out you can still use the battery power to test other things. Just need to tender the battery all the time.

Don't know where your at in Aus, but there is a guy in Brisbane who rewinds Rotors for a reasonable price.