Wanted - 1973 parts parts please

Ben

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Just got this critter in pieces. Looking for seat strap hardware so I can get the seat reupholstered. Any leads on someone to seal the tank, and a good painter for original paint scheme gratefully accepted. I am sure I will find more parts missing. This tank seems to use locking has cap, is that the original configuration for this year? Also, there is no starter button. Does the starter solenoid activate when the compression lever is pulled?

Thanks for any help!!!
Ben
 

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Welcome to the forum, Ben. Quite a project you've got there.

...I am sure I will find more parts missing. This tank seems to use locking has cap, is that the original configuration for this year?

There were some changes to the tank during '73. Download the .PDFs for your bike from here, and crosscheck your serial numbers to items in the parts manual.

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/tag/tx650/

... Also, there is no starter button. Does the starter solenoid activate when the compression lever is pulled?

Yes...
 
On later models, the seat strap "hardware" is simply M8 bolts and washers. Not sure about 1973, elaborate if you need something different.
I'll seal your tank if you want, but it's not hard to do yourself. Use the Caswell kit.
Your gas cap is correct for 1973. I have the lock, latch, etc. if you need anything.
If your bike has a decompression valve, then yes, the starter solenoid activates when you pull the decompression lever. Pulling the lever opens a valve and also completes the circuit to the solenoid. There should be two wires coming from the decomp lever perch. I have good, complete decomp levers if yours is missing anything.
 
Looks to me like all correct 73 parts. Before investing in paint on that tank get the rear seam checked, the tanks with the metal emblems were original. Many were replaced with a tank that looked the same but had decal "YAMAHA"'s instead of the emblems because of rear seam failures. Looks like a restoration that stalled out? Nice stuff, spokes look very shiny.
Welcome to the forum.
 
Thanks to you three for your thoughtful replies! Yes, the rear seam of the tank has been brazed, and the inside of the tank has been media blasted to some degree to remove a non adherent coating that was done at some point by the PO, who started to rehab the bike, and then tired of the project. I took the tank to a local radiator shop where they will try to clean it up further, etch it, then apply a new Red Kote sealer. My decision at that time will be whether to have original paint color and decals applied, or do something differently. I am assuming that decals etc. were done under clearcoat?
Much of the chrome was replated, as were fasteners. Seat was sent out yesterday to Eddie Barrett's in CT. for new foam under the new cover that was included in the purchase. This shop did an excellent job on an fj1100 seat for me last year. Seat pan was also repainted and in good shape. I do not have the passenger strap anchor hooks that the strap loops through on either side, those are what I am looking for. I received a Power Sonic PTX14AHLBS-FS yesterday that appears to sit a little proud in the holder. The seat pan is out, so I cannot tell at this point if it clears.
I used one of these in a BMW 1100 twin, though initially skeptical, it's stood up ok for the last 3 years or so.

I'd like to change fluids today, and see if I can start it this weekend. Any easy to obtain oil filter recommendations? I read, in the owner's manual, something about a wire mesh filter, and wondered if this was just the sump screen, or an actual reusable filter. After your confirmation of the electric start proceedure, which is cool and unusual, it would be interesting, although a bit surprising, to find that Yamaha employed a reusable oil filter back in the day.
As well, I will see if I can find a set of alloy Superbike or European handlebars as I am more comfortable with that set up. Hopefully cabling will be able to be retained. If not, is Motion Pro the best source for clutch and throttle cables? Brake line are stainless, and I think I can reuse it.
Thanks again everyone!
 
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One other ambiguous thought in my slightly crusty noggin this morning. Why are there separate drain plugs for engine and trans oil, according to the owners manual(thanks ToomanyXS1Bs)? Both appear to use a common filler. Is there some partial partition in the sump? Thanks again!
 
It's probably in that bible passage, but yes both sump and side filters are just screens and reuseable. More than 9 out of 10 times the sump screen is torn but is easily and commonly patched.
 
I am a big fan of the Red-Kote sealer. It's thick like molasses and adheres really well. I poured a small spot of it into a puddle to analyze it when cured. It's impervious to everything as far as I can see, and tougher than a basketball. It's thickness will envelope and seal most any flaws. It's like having a tough plastic bag inside the tank. I've used it many times now without any issues, it makes Kreme look sad.
 
Thanks again to you all for your thoughtful and welcoming responses!

My sense generally about tank liners is that the material, no matter how catalized, is plenty rugged. The efficacy of the liner is limited by host surface preparation and patience and attention to application for an even and thorough coating. My experience with liner failure is 100% due to delamination from the tank.
 
The efficacy of the liner is limited by host surface preparation and patience and attention to application for an even and thorough coating. My experience with liner failure is 100% due to delamination from the tank.
I'll add cure time. A week of hot and dry would be my minimum. The best seal job I ever did spent the winter hanging over the wood stove before it was used. I don't think a .22 would harm that coating.
 
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