1975 Gas Cap

[Mark Lewis]

My cap latches fine but the lock will not depress or turn. Can it be repaired?

 

[5twins]

I'm sure it can be. It probably just needs to be disassembled, cleaned, and lubed.

 

[Mark Lewis]

I sprayed the works with WD-40.

 

[5twins]

WD40 is a good cleaner and can free up stuck parts sometimes, but it isn't much of a lube. Once it dries, it doesn't leave much, if any, lube and protection behind. Parts often rust up faster than before after using WD40 on them. You would probably be better off with a penetrating oil of some sort, followed by some regular oil after the parts free up. But honestly, the proper way to do it is to take it apart. Then you can clean all the parts and properly lube them. I use white lithium grease for the sliding plates in the lock cylinder, a little normal grease for all the other moving parts.

 

[fredintoon]

My cap latches fine but the lock will not depress or turn. Can it be repaired?

Hi Mark,
I'm guessing that if the key won't turn the lock you can't get the cap open?
Standard tanks can't be opened keyless as easily as Special tanks so if your poking and prying at the latch in front don't work, drill out the pivot pin at the back.
But as 5twins sez, you gotta take the cap apart to fix it.

 

[5twins]

If his tank is an original '75, he would have the older style cap. The lock and latch are mounted to the tank at the rear of the cap. The cap hinges forward.

It's possible you have the wrong key. It may physically fit into the lock but may not be cut correctly for it. If the key is an original, it should have a 4 digit key/lock code stamped on it. The lock face in the cap should have one too. Do they match? Does your key work in the seat and fork lock?

 

[Mark Lewis]

I can remove the cap by taking the hinge pin out. I found that by not inserting the key quite all the way the lock will turn. I lubed it good with Break Free CLP.

 

[MaxPete]

That's a relief!