Why DOT5?
I've been switching to DOT5 on all my rides as I redo the brakes. It takes more effort to bleed for some reason but I, like the OP don't; want to deal with paint damage.
Why DOT5?
Hey Willis, I know its shutting the gate after the horse has bolted........i was doing some research on TX750 carb parts and came across the full set of brake lines for the XS650 from 72-75 going by partzilla part cross reference
https://www.cruzinimage.net/2018/06...-brake-hose-sets-upper-lower-hose-steel-pipe/
That's what I need to buyHey Willis, I know its shutting the gate after the horse has bolted........i was doing some research on TX750 carb parts and came across the full set of brake lines for the XS650 from 72-75 going by partzilla part cross reference
https://www.cruzinimage.net/2018/06...-brake-hose-sets-upper-lower-hose-steel-pipe/
So 15" bottom line and 15" top (The handle bars are stock)I went out on a limb buying these brake lines. While the lines are very good quality, I Made a few mistakes on my initial order. The top line will work great and the fitting ends will work with the stock steel lines, but I rolled the dice ordering shorter than stock bottom line hoping to tidy things up. The bottom line would have worked with some tweaking on the routing but I am trying to keep a factory look going. I just reordered a replacement bottom line of 15” so I can route properly like a factory line. I also eliminated the 45 banjo bend in place of a straight one. The 45 bend put the line uncomfortably close to the fork leg. Will report back once the new line arrives.
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I also tore apart the master cylinder for rebuild and paint. I ran into issues with the rebuild kits that are available for the early master cylinders though. Several dealers offer the kits with prices ranging from about $35 up to $85. The issue I ran into was the listed replacement pistons were different than what the factory had in there. Even my 75 factory service manual provided inconsistent photos. http://www.mikoede01.de/downloads/xs650.de/xs-wsh-de/5_Fahrgestell.pdf
I searched as many posts in this forum as I could looking for answers. I turns out the new kit should work fine as several others have had good luck with them. Then during my search for replacement kits, our friendly resident restorer Bob...aka Mailman pm’d me that he had an unused kit that I was about to order that did not get used in his ‘72 restoration. A big thanks to Bob for offering it to me free of charge and shipped it right out to me. Since my piston was in decent shape I decided to use the seals and clips from Bob’s kit to restore mine with.
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Now it’s been cleaned, stripped, sanded and taped ready to paint. Once painted I’ll reinstall the innards. I just need to decide on a paint kit to use.
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When I tore down the master I ended up finding quite a bit of crap in there, so decided to go through the caliper while I had it down this far. The caliper was in really good shape, but once I removed the pistons I found quite a bit of sediment in the fluid. Everything else was in good order, so just a quick clean and inspection of seals and back together it went and just waiting for the new line to arrive to finish.
Why is brake fluid so aggressive to paint? Anyone have an answer to that.They make specific caliper paint now, available at most auto parts stores. It's heat resistant, which applies more to the caliper, but also brake fluid resistant, which is good for the MC too. It comes in both spray cans and little normal cans so you could brush it on.
It's made from Diethylene glycol.... it's a solvent.Why is brake fluid so aggressive to paint? Anyone have an answer to that.
I’m going to try Cuban brake fluid made from shampoo and toothpaste.It's made from Diethylene glycol.... it's a solvent.
Where do you measure from center of the banjo to end of the female endI could be mistaken, but I believe stock upper length was 12.5”.
I'm looking at the apex brakes website for my 75 also, but when it ask you for length (15")it comes up $40)Got my new brake lines delivered from Apex today. They look and feel like high quality pieces. The cost was $43 to my door and included 2 new banjo bolts and crush washers. Both lines are 12” with 45degree bends, should provide nice routing with the cb750 replica bars I’m using. Going to try and carve out some shop time this Saturday to install them.
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*edit to add Apex info.*
http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp
I ordered #4 banjo fittings (45' bend) with #19 ends to fit the factory flared steel lines.
**2nd edit - 12" was too short for the bottom line. Reordered a 15" replacement line with straight banjo fitting that worked better.
***3rd edit - the 45degree banjo ends were a mistake. If someone is reading this in hopes of ordering a similar setup I would encourage you to order straight banjo ends on all lines.
I got my stainless brake line from Hel for my 72, it replaced the steel line and both rubber lines.Another member (Somerville) and I were just discussing this upgrade earlier this week and whether it was possible to order lines to eliminate the steel brake line as well.
But on the 75 it has the brake light switch in between the 2 lines so I would need to keep or buy new steel linesI got my stainless brake line from Hel for my 72, it replaced the steel line and both rubber lines.
The banjo bolts came with the line. If you get just a brake line with no bolts you will need a 10-1.25 banjo bolt for the caliper.
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Or use a banjo bolt with a built in brake light switch, alternatively a master cylinder with a brake light switch.But on the 75 it has the brake light switch in between the 2 lines so I would need to keep or buy new steel lines