76 carb settings, does this make sense?

[backwithabang]

after messing with my stock 38s on my chop. I ended up running stock main jets, dropping the needle all the way, and upped the pilot jet 2 sizes, and lollipopped the drags.

It was the only way I could get the thing to rev to high rpms without bogging.

It likes to run on full choke for about 2 blocks, then i keep knocking it down as the idle increases in the ride

 

[5twins]

No, it doesn't make sense. You're jetting ass-backwards.

 

[cros36]

go up one more on the main and see what happens.
let your machine warm up before you start tearing around your neighborhood. if you dont we will be answering your questions on how to fix your filter that has a whole blown through it.
hows your plugs look? im pretty much still a new guy when it comes to engines but im becoming a firm believer in plug readings.
and please when asking carb questions the more you tell us the better. what pipes, intakes, plugs, ignition.

 

[blackbetty]

No, it doesn't make sense. You're jetting ass-backwards.

Hahah awesome.

I have the 76-77 BS38s, and w 5Twins help, I was able to get my carbs dialed very nicely.

I have open pipes, UNI foam filters, and Boyer ignition. New diaphragms, 27.5 pilot jets and a 130 main jets, needle dropped one step, mix screws out 1.5 turns, and my bike is running awesome. Starts on the first kick and pulls cleanly to redline now, no pops at idle, non on decel, no baffles of any kind.

5Twins suggest I go up to a 130 main jet from my previous 125, and I was skeptical moving up that much since the factory Main is a 122.5 and I was initially perceiving my mixture as super rich, but I ordered genuine Mikuni jets and tried it out. TOTALLY woke the bike up. I have a few leaky valve seals, and the oil from these leaking down past the valve into the combustion chamber is what gave me my initial impression that the bike was running rich based on plug readings. Turns out it was lean!

I couldn't get my bike to run as nice using the mikes rebuild jets and float valves.

Make sure your float levels are set.

Where are your mix screw settings with your carbs set up like this?

 

[backwithabang]

I am running drags from pandemonium with some homemade lollipops. I had the jetting at 27.5 pilots, 130 main on the right and 122.5 main on the left due to me fucking up and forgetting to change the left jet and that seemed to work great for some odd reason so I left it for the remainder of the season. Screws 1.75 out. and carbs did sync for some reason even with the weird main sizing

That's all I really needed. My stock 38s were clean but beat up. The linkage is shakey at best and it seems to have taken some drops prior to me, the throttle holder is pretty bent up and the choke valve is a mess. So I ordered a set of mikes carbs for the spring.

one more thing I did that helped but was kind of scary was that i picked up a direct drive motocross bearing throttle I saw in the store on clearance. All I had to do was hack off the cable elbow of the original xs cable up to the threads and it locked right in the throttle perfectly. However it drove kind of nuts and would redline super fast in the low end, just hard to control. Popped a couple of clutch rod seals too. But that shouldn't have done it. Took apart my oil breather and found that the inner tubing somehow slipped into the mechanism thus blocking a lot of exhaust from the inside of the engine. After I cleaned it out, it worked great.

But I wasn't running a battery, minimal bike, tc hardtail, superlight. without the engine I can pick the thing up like a BMX and throw it on my work table. Hence that throttle would cause me to lose the back end a bit on take offs.

The bike is apart now and getting a full makeover cosmetically this winter

 

[5twins]

...... cosmetically .... Dude, it doesn't run right yet.

 

[backwithabang]

dude, maybe you should consider that some of us live in crap climates, like Buffalo for example. Its mid november and not all of us have garage space.

I also stated that I ordered new carbs so why should I keep playing with the 38's? the bike is solid and it's merely carb work.

It's in about 150 pieces in the basement right now

 

[oldskoolcarbs]

EDITEDIT

 

[XSLeo]

In my limited experience if you can't get the carbs designed to run a 650 to work, then you have zero chance of getting Mike's "bolt on performance " carbs to work.
Even very experienced carb guys have had to invest $600 to get them right.
Leo

 

[tidd1340]

That's all I really needed. My stock 38s were clean but beat up. The linkage is shakey at best and it seems to have taken some drops prior to me, the throttle holder is pretty bent up and the choke valve is a mess. So I ordered a set of mikes carbs for the spring.

Funny,didnt see that in the for sale ad on Chopcult when I bought them......

 

[5twins]

..... and now his carb problems are your carb problems, lol. What a guy, huh? Let's hope he never comes back, with or without the bang, lol.