I like that idea. I might do the Reformer as a primer first, which it's intended to be, but it's plenty durable on its own as long as it's rust under it. Doesn't stick to clean metal as well as most primers).
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'80 Special Refit
- Thread starter Solomoriah
- Start date
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
I suppose I should paint the inside of the bucket. I've got a significant selection of Rustoleum on hand, so no problem there.
As to the black wire... ah, now I see how it is supposed to work. I'll reconnect it next time I work on the bike. Waiting for a few parts right now.
As to the black wire... ah, now I see how it is supposed to work. I'll reconnect it next time I work on the bike. Waiting for a few parts right now.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Okay, so I did a little bit today. Doesn't look like much...
That's the new brake light lead I made to connect the "generic" master cylinder to the XS650's wiring harness. After I took the picture I installed and tested it, and it's perfect. Also hooked up that floating ground wire.
SO now here's my list of must-do's before I can get this beast inspected, licensed, and on the road:
-- Drain, refill, and bleed the front brake;
-- Resolder the turn signal switch and reassemble the left pod; and
-- Retorque the head, installing the new brass washers along the way.
I have everything in hand needed to do the first two jobs, but still do not have the wobble extension needed to retorque the head. I'm hopeful I'll get all of this done next week, after a trip to the store this weekend to get that extension.
That's the new brake light lead I made to connect the "generic" master cylinder to the XS650's wiring harness. After I took the picture I installed and tested it, and it's perfect. Also hooked up that floating ground wire.
SO now here's my list of must-do's before I can get this beast inspected, licensed, and on the road:
-- Drain, refill, and bleed the front brake;
-- Resolder the turn signal switch and reassemble the left pod; and
-- Retorque the head, installing the new brass washers along the way.
I have everything in hand needed to do the first two jobs, but still do not have the wobble extension needed to retorque the head. I'm hopeful I'll get all of this done next week, after a trip to the store this weekend to get that extension.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Resoldered the turn signal switch. No pictures, because (a) it's an ugly job of soldering, and (b) I was too busy exercising my vocabulary to take any pictures.
Next up: Brakes, and retorque, and then we'll see about getting this one legal and on the road!
Next up: Brakes, and retorque, and then we'll see about getting this one legal and on the road!
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Okay, so this morning I hooked up the new master cylinder and bled the front brakes. I pulled the tank to protect the paint, and while I had it off I looked over what retorquing is going to involve. Decided I didn't have enough time to do that too (work, you know?) but I did have time to get the bike inspected:
I checked the oil before starting out; it's about halfway between the lower and upper lines on the dipstick, and I only had to go a mile to get to the inspection station. There was a fresh thin trickle of oil from the left side of the cylinder when I got home, so I won't be taking any long trips until I get the retorque done. Maybe soon.
I did notice that the bike is very stiff shifting down; shifting up is pretty smooth when it's rolling, but it's a bear to get into neutral. I did set the free play at the clutch when I put the new bars on, and while the clutch is very stiff it does seem to disengage fully.
I have to say that I'm wondering if I've bitten off more than I can chew. But I'm going to hang with it and hope to have a new daily ride soon.
I checked the oil before starting out; it's about halfway between the lower and upper lines on the dipstick, and I only had to go a mile to get to the inspection station. There was a fresh thin trickle of oil from the left side of the cylinder when I got home, so I won't be taking any long trips until I get the retorque done. Maybe soon.
I did notice that the bike is very stiff shifting down; shifting up is pretty smooth when it's rolling, but it's a bear to get into neutral. I did set the free play at the clutch when I put the new bars on, and while the clutch is very stiff it does seem to disengage fully.
I have to say that I'm wondering if I've bitten off more than I can chew. But I'm going to hang with it and hope to have a new daily ride soon.
A good clean and lube on the cable and worm actuator should take care of that.
Yeah... it can be daunting. Make a list..... solve one problem at a time... move on to the next one. You'll get there.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
I'm trying not to let the project get the better of me. As far as I know, the only actual problem is the oil leak. I've done my own oil changes, tires, etc. for years but am not what anyone would call an experienced mechanic. Computers are my day job.
Wise words. And, as the old Martial Arts Master said "...mile by mile is a trial. Yard by yard is hard. But inch by inch, is a cinch...". The bike isn't going anywhere, and neither are we. You'll get there as long as you "...endeavor to persevere.."
You'll get there. Don't put off that retorque. If any cable is stiff, replace it. Theres is NO cure for a rusty cable. Trust me I've tried to rescue them many times. LUBE the new cable, they are not prelubed.
Yes, many of us use use Motion Pro replacements, especially the clutch. And you can't beat the price from Amazon, buy 2 so you have a spare on hand .....
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Clutch-Yamaha-Special/dp/B000OO0WT6
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Clutch-Yamaha-Special/dp/B000OO0WT6
Last edited:
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
My Special isn't so special anymore, since I put the CB750 replica bars on it; I need a shorter cable, probably more like a Standard. I made the one on the bike work by careful adjustments but it's really too long. Same for the throttle cable, honestly.
There isn't much difference in clutch cable lengths, maybe an inch or so, and I don't think there's any difference in throttle cable lengths, so using Standard cables isn't much help. A careful reroute is about the best you can do. Originally the clutch cable routed down on the left side of the steering neck, the throttle on the right side. Flip flop that and most of the extra cable length will be taken care of .....
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
AH, ingenious! I will do that when I pull the tank to do the retorque. Thanks!
Hi Solomoriah,
like they said,
to get the lightest clutch pull you gotta route the cable with the least number and largest radius bends possible.
The XS650's tortuous stock installation seems to be designed more to hide the cable that to ease it's pull.
Because an XS650's clutch operator ain't on t'other side of the bike like on my XS11it's not possible to run
the cable in a single free swoop from the lever to the clutch operator to cut it's pull in half but you can certainly
come up with an installation that's smoother than stock to get a somewhat lighter pull.
like they said,
to get the lightest clutch pull you gotta route the cable with the least number and largest radius bends possible.
The XS650's tortuous stock installation seems to be designed more to hide the cable that to ease it's pull.
Because an XS650's clutch operator ain't on t'other side of the bike like on my XS11it's not possible to run
the cable in a single free swoop from the lever to the clutch operator to cut it's pull in half but you can certainly
come up with an installation that's smoother than stock to get a somewhat lighter pull.
Good one, 5T! Thanks! I'll remember that, about clutch cable routing, when "The Basketcase" goes back together.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Thanks for all the help on cable routing, guys! I have the tank off right now to do the retorque, and I'm going to look everything over carefully and hopefully find a good route for the clutch and throttle cables.
Retorquing the head is the last thing on my short list of "must-do" tasks. On my longer list of "do later" tasks is replacing the broken tank emblem on the right side; it broke at the hole beside the Y, and the missing piece is missing, as in, I don't have it. So I did some research.
The standard part number for the right-side logo was 3G1-24162-00, while the left was 3G1-24161-00, according to the parts fiche, and also according to that fiche, both were superceded by the same part, number 4G7-24161-00. Single units of this part number are kinda pricey, $40.00 or so depending on vendor, but 2FastMoto has a replica set of two for $40.71 here: https://www.2fastmoto.com/Yamaha-Em...TS-Bravo-LT-Snowmobile-BR-250-NEW_p_1523.html
The part says it's for a bunch of other Yamaha models, but the supercession part number is listed in the description, so I assume it will work fine. Anyway, I looked for the part on Amazon (Prime shipping, after all) but could not find it. What I did find interesting was this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MGPVNW
Yeah, it says it's a golf cart emblem, and this particular one is silver rather than gold. It's just that it looks SO MUCH like the part I need, and it's cost-comparable to the set of replica emblems from 2FastMoto. But I cannot find the dimensions ANYWHERE.
At this point, the 2FastMoto emblems look like the best deal, so I'm probably going that way in a few months (after I recover from the outlay involved in phase 1 of this bike's refit). Just wondering if anyone knew anything about the golf cart logo, or had any other suggestions.
Retorquing the head is the last thing on my short list of "must-do" tasks. On my longer list of "do later" tasks is replacing the broken tank emblem on the right side; it broke at the hole beside the Y, and the missing piece is missing, as in, I don't have it. So I did some research.
The standard part number for the right-side logo was 3G1-24162-00, while the left was 3G1-24161-00, according to the parts fiche, and also according to that fiche, both were superceded by the same part, number 4G7-24161-00. Single units of this part number are kinda pricey, $40.00 or so depending on vendor, but 2FastMoto has a replica set of two for $40.71 here: https://www.2fastmoto.com/Yamaha-Em...TS-Bravo-LT-Snowmobile-BR-250-NEW_p_1523.html
The part says it's for a bunch of other Yamaha models, but the supercession part number is listed in the description, so I assume it will work fine. Anyway, I looked for the part on Amazon (Prime shipping, after all) but could not find it. What I did find interesting was this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MGPVNW
Yeah, it says it's a golf cart emblem, and this particular one is silver rather than gold. It's just that it looks SO MUCH like the part I need, and it's cost-comparable to the set of replica emblems from 2FastMoto. But I cannot find the dimensions ANYWHERE.
At this point, the 2FastMoto emblems look like the best deal, so I'm probably going that way in a few months (after I recover from the outlay involved in phase 1 of this bike's refit). Just wondering if anyone knew anything about the golf cart logo, or had any other suggestions.
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
Just an update... a rep from one of the cart supply companies got back to me and said that the Yamaha golf cart emblem is 4 1/4" long. This is pretty close, but unfortunately they didn't say what the distance on the holes is. I've found a source for an actual Yamaha brand golf cart emblem, JN6-F4161-01-00, that is just $4.24 each. It's silver, not gold, but if I replace both I'm not sure I care. Found it here: https://www.yocracing.com/accessory_store/store/yoc_viewitem.asp?idproduct=153619 They list Priority Mail shipping at $7.30, making for a total of $15.78 for two of them delivered to my mailbox. If I just knew for sure they'd fit...
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
And I just found this thread: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41510&page=2
First post on the page, BA80 says he has heated and bent the golf cart emblems and they turned out well. This is heartening indeed...
First post on the page, BA80 says he has heated and bent the golf cart emblems and they turned out well. This is heartening indeed...
Solomoriah
XS650 Addict
So here's what I'm about to go work on:
As you can see, I've revised the diagram from the Yamaha manual, reorienting it so front is down (as JimD54's diagram is in his thread). I've numbered just the bolts/nuts that are getting attention, and included the torque measurements I've chosen after all the discussion I've read and participated in here on the forum.
Here's hoping it all works out...
As you can see, I've revised the diagram from the Yamaha manual, reorienting it so front is down (as JimD54's diagram is in his thread). I've numbered just the bolts/nuts that are getting attention, and included the torque measurements I've chosen after all the discussion I've read and participated in here on the forum.
Here's hoping it all works out...
