Don't do this, good way to snap off a pin.
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- Thread starter GLJ
- Start date
Don't do this, good way to snap off a pin.
I made this too. There's a hole in the anvil so pin head can push out. The drywall screw/punch is easier. LOL
After getting the float pins out I moved on to the rest of the carbs. Looked at the pilot jets and could see someone had tried to get them out and had mangled up the heads a bit. Hmm. None of my regular carb screwdrivers felt like the could get a good bite on the pilots. Remembered I had a Snap-On set for carbs. With a little heat it worked.
I custom grind 1/4" insert bits to make perfectly fitting "jet bits". Then I use a T-handled holder, but only for removal. Install is done with a stubby screwdriver or small, knurled bit holder. Install the jets with a big old regular screwdriver and you make them too tight, and they're a real bitch to get out later, lol. Details on my process along with links to the bits I use are in this thread .....
https://www.xs650.com/threads/jet-bits.59779/
https://www.xs650.com/threads/jet-bits.59779/
Then moved to the emulsion tubes. Neither would move. WD40 with heat and rapping on a punch with a screwdriver handle got them out.
Last thing to do was get the throttle plates out. Need to remove the ends of the screws. Done this on BS38s. BS34s much less room to work with. Found a bit for my Dremel that looked like it would work. It did. So tomorrow pull the shafts out and finish clean up on stuff. Then order parts.
Last thing to do was get the throttle plates out. Need to remove the ends of the screws. Done this on BS38s. BS34s much less room to work with. Found a bit for my Dremel that looked like it would work. It did. So tomorrow pull the shafts out and finish clean up on stuff. Then order parts.
Some progress on the carbs. Ordered some parts need to order a few more things.
One problem I had was the choke holes in the float bowls were plugged. Spent a lot of time soaking them with various chemicals I have and trying to blow air through them. Poking small wires at it didn't work. I did get one to clear, the other no luck. I finally ordered a pin vise and drilled it with a #60 bit. That's .040, pretty small. I'm pretty sure the hole was originally smaller than that. To keep things even I drilled the other one. Will be interesting to see how the chokes work.
Replaced the throttle shafts seals. Reassembled throttle shafts, bolted carbs together and set the idle screws. That went ok. I think I have the balance screw adjusted pretty good.
I may have a problem with one of the slides. Some of what I assume to be a teflon coating has disappeared. Is this a problem or normal?
Going to order new Mikuni jets from Niche. Stock main plus next size bigger, same for pilot jet. Air jet stock plus one size smaller. Also adding a washer under the needle clip. Taking a chance and ordered a carb kit from China. It's listed for XS1100s but everything should work. Not going to use the jets or rubber diaphragms, everything else should work. For $20.35 I thought it was worth a shot.
One problem I had was the choke holes in the float bowls were plugged. Spent a lot of time soaking them with various chemicals I have and trying to blow air through them. Poking small wires at it didn't work. I did get one to clear, the other no luck. I finally ordered a pin vise and drilled it with a #60 bit. That's .040, pretty small. I'm pretty sure the hole was originally smaller than that. To keep things even I drilled the other one. Will be interesting to see how the chokes work.
Replaced the throttle shafts seals. Reassembled throttle shafts, bolted carbs together and set the idle screws. That went ok. I think I have the balance screw adjusted pretty good.
I may have a problem with one of the slides. Some of what I assume to be a teflon coating has disappeared. Is this a problem or normal?
Going to order new Mikuni jets from Niche. Stock main plus next size bigger, same for pilot jet. Air jet stock plus one size smaller. Also adding a washer under the needle clip. Taking a chance and ordered a carb kit from China. It's listed for XS1100s but everything should work. Not going to use the jets or rubber diaphragms, everything else should work. For $20.35 I thought it was worth a shot.
Hey @jetmechmarty Are XS11 carbs BS34 or BS32?
Partzilla sames the gasket, needle and seats and floats are the same.
Check the float pivots to see if they have a tube inserted in them or are just rolled over metal. Many of the aftermarket floats don't have the inserted tube and are a very loose, sloppy fit on the pivot pin. This allows them to jiggle all around and not meter precisely, and sometimes they'll hang up and stick open .....
Complete BS34 slide/diaphragm assemblies are available cheap (about $20 each) from Cruzinimage.
Complete BS34 slide/diaphragm assemblies are available cheap (about $20 each) from Cruzinimage.
Maybe a bad method getting the pin out .but put it here anyways
I have used a small soft nail that i have ground flat -- gently tap on the end
When it moves a bit I shift to the other side
Between the post and the pin head i carefully tap in a small for instruments flat screwdriver .. Getting a wedge force Gently and can go bigger and twist the Screwdriver. Again some other methods here seems safer But it has worked for me ca 4 times x 2
I have used a small soft nail that i have ground flat -- gently tap on the end
When it moves a bit I shift to the other side
Between the post and the pin head i carefully tap in a small for instruments flat screwdriver .. Getting a wedge force Gently and can go bigger and twist the Screwdriver. Again some other methods here seems safer But it has worked for me ca 4 times x 2
The deep gold color of your slide may be due to varnish. Have you tried cleaning it with a rag dipped in carb cleaner? Don't spray it because you don't want the carb cleaner to get on the rubber diaphragm, it can ruin it. After the carb cleaner, I wipe it down with something mild like WD40 or kerosene to clean any remnants of the carb cleaner off.
Yes I cleaned them with carb spray and WD40.
With my thumb nail I can feel a edge where the coating is missing.
With my thumb nail I can feel a edge where the coating is missing.
XS1100 has BS34, however, they are not identical to what's on the XS650.
I hate to be a wet sock, but I'm pretty sure the #60 bit was WAY too big.
I tested the orifice with a #71 bit, and even it was too big. I couldn't further easily do testing with my micro-bits because #72 and smaller bits aren't long enough.
I have always used a single strand of copper wire, about the equivalent thickness of a #79 bit, to clean out choke orifices. It takes repeated stabbing to find the actual orifice -- first, the pick-up tube passage necks down at the brass fitting, then it necks down again at the actual orifice. I tried to show what I think is happening in the above drawing. The copper wire will want to hang up at the first neck-down. Once you finally find the actual orifice, it helps if you bend the copper wire into a sort of brace and bit so that you can employ a drilling motion as you try to poke at and clear out the orifice. This is all done while the pick-up hole is filled with MEK.
I have done this many, many, many times. I can usually clear a choke orifice in 5-20 minutes, depending on how badly plugged it is.
I haven't had to clear one since buying my ultrasonic cleaner, but I'm going to try it next time. I will fill a jar that is large enough to hold the float bowl with MEK, and then put the jar and bowl in the ultrasonic cleaner water bath.
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Great drawing and technique DB!
I'll add this; in bad cases the plug forms below the orifice. A tiny hook on some safety wire will reach up and let you dig at the plug.
I also have a couple probes made by sharpening safety wire on a fine grinding wheel. the somewhat irregular shape and stiffer stainless lets it go where no copper wire can. Like DB I have unplugged many a pilot jet (even smaller hole) with infinite (me??? LOL) patience and a single strand of copper from a MC harness wire. Once the jet is open I kink the wire a bit and run it up 'n down several time to clean out the orifice without changing it's size.
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It's difficult to get a good air blast through the choke jet because it's at the bottom of that deep passageway and also, there's an air slot entering from the side at the top. The rubber tip on a blowgun doesn't seal well into the hole because of this. What you need are the long tube attachments for your blowgun .....
Using the appropriately sized one of these, you can stick it down into the choke jet bored passageway and place it right on the jet. Then you get the full power of the air blast. I've never needed to poke one clear, this tool has always done the trick. Yes, I'll dig out any crap from under the jet first, and clean above it as well. Every serious carb cleaning guy needs a set of these, lol.
https://www.amazon.com/Interstate-P...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AOSAVO7HYAGGN
Using the appropriately sized one of these, you can stick it down into the choke jet bored passageway and place it right on the jet. Then you get the full power of the air blast. I've never needed to poke one clear, this tool has always done the trick. Yes, I'll dig out any crap from under the jet first, and clean above it as well. Every serious carb cleaning guy needs a set of these, lol.
https://www.amazon.com/Interstate-P...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AOSAVO7HYAGGN
