82 XS650 Starts then dies

Do you have a source for replacement boots?
Aircraft Spruce. Buck and a half each.


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Yes, thank you Jim, that's very good. All I've ever done in the past is swap on a good, used original. But, exactly which one do we need?
 
Yes, thank you Jim, that's very good. All I've ever done in the past is swap on a good, used original. But, exactly which one do we need?
Don't remember which ones I ordered. I did it on a friends account so I can't go back and check the purchase history. :umm:
Guess one of us needs to measure some dimensions for the cable and terminal stud. Then we can cross it to their chart.
 
Don't remember which ones I ordered. I did it on a friends account so I can't go back and check the purchase history. :umm:
Guess one of us needs to measure some dimensions for the cable and terminal stud. Then we can cross it to their chart.
I need a bunch. My XS11 needs them for the battery cable. 650’s need them at the starter.
 
I’ve used replacement boots from the auto store. I know the one I use had several sizes.
Coldwater, MS has a population of about 1500 and it’s three miles away. Since this covid business hit, I’ve grown very comfortable with most things coming to my door. I’m not going back. The online search is much easier than driving around looking for stuff. And, I really hate the whole Walmart experience. I know, I went OT. It’s my current environment. Thank you for your generous input @Wingedwheel .
 
JMM,
I'm with you on the Wally thing. Amazon, baby! I don't care if Bezos makes a trillion. It's working for me.

Oh, yeah, and here lately would-be Alchemists were playing around with magic, making old parts look purdy! You know who your are and my pockets are now lighter! You know what the old timers said. "It ain't cool if the chrome don't shine." In this case Zinc and Nickel.

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12 months! Kept covered, in out of the weather. This ain't right! Side cover isolators work for a living. The neutral switch cover just goes along for the ride and it wasn't that dirt there that killed it! You gotta cut the terminal end off to get another one on! I'm gona slit the bottom on the new one, slip it over the wire and put a small black zip tie on it. It's one of Mikes.
 
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Alrighty.... boot for the starter is in rough shape, will be replaced but I threw some electrical tape around the crack in it but it is just a matter of time until it fails. The connection for the starter was cleaned up nicely and I have great connection.

I threw one of the small jump packs on the bike and... it turns over and doesn't die. So I have a 4 year old battery that now when thrown on the trickle charger gives me errors. As soon as I get the charging system sorted out of course the battery has to go bad! Time for a new battery! Other than that the bike appears to be outputting 14.5v at about 2,000rpm with the headlight fuse pulled but I don't want to run the charging system too much with a bad battery.
 
Another spring another day. Over the earlier spring I replaced a few seals that I started on in the fall but the weather changed so quickly I didn't want to freeze working on the bike. The bike kick starts nicely and then after it has warmed up a bit the starter works really well, so I am happy with that.

I swapped the power sucking H4 headlight bulb with an LED one off of amazon and the starter seems to have a lot less trouble getting going! I went to swap some of the instrument bulbs out with LEDs as well just because and I messed up my tachometer some how. I took the two nuts off the back and unscrewed the tachometer cable. Wiggled it out of the housing and quickly swapped the LEDs.

Re-assembled and the tachometer no longer wants to work for me. Will sit around 500rpm no matter what the engine is doing. I went though some threads and I ran the bike with the end of the tachometer cable exposed it speed up and slows down rotations with the engine revs. I then read it might be the oil pump so take the cover off the exhaust valve and it shot oil everywhere. So after I cleaned that up I kept testing and I still cant get it to work. Besides bringing my tachometer over to 5twins and plugging it into his bike what else can I test?
 
Disconnecting the tachometer wire at the lower end connect the wire
to a hand held drill machine se what happens if you spin the wire.
Be extremely careful not to run at all if the oil pump is not performing properly
 
Disconnecting the tachometer wire at the lower end connect the wire
to a hand held drill machine se what happens if you spin the wire.
Be extremely careful not to run at all if the oil pump is not performing properly
Oil pump is flowing oil like a charm. I spat oil all over my other bike. I will test the hand drill idea.
 
Well drill hooked up spun and the needle doesn't go anywhere. I guess I need to disassemble the tach and see if I can fix the internals.
 
Well drill hooked up spun and the needle doesn't go anywhere. I guess I need to disassemble the tach and see if I can fix the internals.
Not so fast please
Disconnect wire at the upper end also and and use the drill again at the low end ..se if the upper wire end moves The wire can be broken off
 
Yup wire spins on both ends and the wire speeds up and slows down with the engine while it is running. I have removed the entire wire and inspected it. I cleaned and lubed it as well.
 
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