83 Yamaha XS650 won’t idle

thanks for the help. I will see what can be done and worse case bring it to a mechanic to properly do the work
We are glad to assist. Finding shops to do GOOD work on 40 year old bikes is NOT easy, rat holes of frustration for both owner and shop common. We do have quite a few canadian members who may be able to to steer you to a good work place.
I'll tickle a few of them now. @bosco659 @MaxPete @lakeview
They may pop in to advise, help.
Keep us in the loop?
Good luck!
 
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We are glad to assist. Finding shops to do GOOD work on 40 year old bikes is NOT easy, rat holes of frustration for both owner and shop common. We do have quite a few canadian memebers who may be able to to steer you to a good work place.
I'll tickle a few of them now. @bosco659 @MaxPete @lakeview
They may pop in to advise, help.
Keep us in the loop?
Good luck!
I will, thanks guys!!
 
The fuel adjustment screws are open - no brass plugs present. All that means is a less involved procedure could be attempted to get it running - maybe. The chances of success with said procedure are perhaps 50% on a lucky day however. Option.....
 
The fuel adjustment screws are open - no brass plugs present. All that means is a less involved procedure could be attempted to get it running - maybe. The chances of success with said procedure are perhaps 50% on a lucky day however. Option.....
If you have time, what does this entail? Adjusting the fuel mixture screw?
 
Basically: remove fuel tank, remove both fuel screws* and open carb drain screws. Spray carb cleaner (red straw attached) down through fuel screw opening. Hopefully it will begin dripping out drain at some point, let it sit overnight, repeat until it seems it is spraying all the way through pilot jet (inside bowl). Tighten drains, reinstall fuel screws to seat gently, then back fuel screws 3 turns. Install tank, fresh fuel, cross fingers, vroom-vroom.

*Pay careful attention to spring, o-ring & washer under screw (the latter can stay in carb just make sure it's centered in bore prior to reinstall)

Realize this is a 50yr experienced hill-jack giving advice: caution.
 
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Basically: remove fuel tank, remove both fuel screws* and open carb drain screws. Spray carb cleaner (red straw attached) down through fuel screw opening. Hopefully it will begin dripping out drain at some point, let it sit overnight, repeat until it seems it is spraying all the way through pilot jet (inside bowl). Tighten drains, reinstall fuel screws to seat gently, then back fuel screws 3 turns. Install tank, fresh fuel, cross fingers, vroom-vroom.

Pay careful attention to spring, o-ring & washer under screw (the latter can stay in carb just make sure it's centered in bore prior to reinstall)

Realize this is a 50yr experienced hill-jack giving advice: caution.
Appreciate any help! Thank you
 
Welcome to your new XS650,

Taking the bike to a mechanic these days is fraught with danger. Unless the he/she/they are an old style bike repair shop, worked on and know these bikes inside out then they will not be of much use to you except take your money.

This is what the pilot screws look like when the caps has been removed and also a pic and tutorial, (by 5 twins), on how to remove the caps...........Very important to take extreme care and don't damage the screw tops when removing the caps.

Also a PDF from suzuki on BS34's from their bikes. This is a good how to to working on BS34's and can be used and applied to the XS650.



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Basically: remove fuel tank, remove both fuel screws* and open carb drain screws. Spray carb cleaner (red straw attached) down through fuel screw opening. Hopefully it will begin dripping out drain at some point, let it sit overnight, repeat until it seems it is spraying all the way through pilot jet (inside bowl). Tighten drains, reinstall fuel screws to seat gently, then back fuel screws 3 turns. Install tank, fresh fuel, cross fingers, vroom-vroom.

Pay careful attention to spring, o-ring & washer under screw (the latter can stay in carb just make sure it's centered in bore prior to reinstall)

Realize this is a 50yr experienced hill-jack giving advice: caution.
You made me look again, yes the screws are open! that does give Chris a simple "try this". Note: who ever drilled out the plugs also drilled the top of the mixture screw head a bit, so be cautious with your screw driver.
First squirt them with a bit of rust buster, light spray lube.
We are talking brass in aluminum, slots, threads EASILY damaged.
Slowly turn them in til they stop turning, do NOT force! then back them out about 3 1/2 turns, try idling again.
If it doesn't help try it again.
It does not hurt to add some carb cleaner to the gas Techron is a known good brand, but about any brand won't hurt, might help a bit.
If you can, RIDE it, out in the country, put on 100 KM or more, add gas repeat, sometimes if the system isn't badly gummed up, this might be enough to get it running OK again.
 
Right, 5twins and I wrote the Carb Guide so that folks could ignore it and play "Yes, but...." You'd be wise to drop the idea that servicing the carbs is all you'll have to do to make the bike roadworthy. If the carbs have been neglected I'll give better than even odds that the brakes need attention, that steering head bearings and swing arm bushings haven't seen fresh grease since assembly at the factory, and that the forks still contain the whale oil installed in Japan (and no, I'm not kidding re. the whale oil). Click the Tech button, read, and above all, think.
 
We are glad to assist. Finding shops to do GOOD work on 40 year old bikes is NOT easy, rat holes of frustration for both owner and shop common. We do have quite a few canadian memebers who may be able to to steer you to a good work place.
I'll tickle a few of them now. @bosco659 @MaxPete @lakeview
They may pop in to advise, help.
Keep us in the loop?
Good luck!
Welcome! Montreal is a distance away from me so I can’t help with recommending any shops. There are several members in Ottawa that may have some suggestions. For parts, XS650DIRECT is a good source. Good pricing and great customer service. Good luck with your project, I’m sure with the help of this group, you’ll have it running great in no time at all.
 
Pamco no longer in business. You had spark. What process led you to faulty PAMCO?
 
Battery voltage? Voltage (key on) to ground on R/W wire at coils?
 
Do you still have the mechanical advance? One ignition coil or two?
MikesXS sells a Pamco replacement but the forum has watched so many get burned by MikesXS ignitions we don't recommend them. TheTytronics have also shown some weakness.
 
Both sparkplugs need to be installed/grounded to get spark.
Rig up something like this for testing,
20200113_180531.jpg

the bare copper should touch frame or engine.
 
Do you still have the mechanical advance? One ignition coil or two?
MikesXS sells a Pamco replacement but the forum has watched so many get burned by MikesXS ignitions we don't recommend them. TheTytronics have also shown some weakness.
Appears to be stock 1983 Edit: non-US model?
 
Do you still have the mechanical advance? One ignition coil or two?
MikesXS sells a Pamco replacement but the forum has watched so many get burned by MikesXS ignitions we don't recommend them. TheTytronics have also shown some weakness.
No it doesn’t and has 1 coil
 
PAMCO E-Advance? Hope it's low voltage @ coil input.
 
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