a manual schematic - can you explain?

xjwmx

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Here's a diagram from the factory manual. I don't see any way the switch inside the "safety relay" can get closed. The ends of the coil in the relay can either be open or ground, but never +12, unless the switch was already closed. So the relay coil can never energize and close the switch. What am I overlooking or what is left out or wrong with the diagram?
 

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doesn't matter what color the wires are as long as one end is grounded to the frame/battery and the other through the device in the circuit. i can't explain that schematic and i do electrical for a living!
 
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I think '+' comes from the main switch where it indicates 'battery'....near the top left corner of the diagram.
 
The safety relay is normally closed I believe allowing 12v to pass through to the starter relay from the kill switch. When the motor starts voltage from the charging stator goes to the safety relay through the yellow wire and engergizes the coil in the safety relay. This opens the relay and kills power to the starter relay shutting it down. I think it takes about 6V to operate the coil.

That diagram doesn't show the yellow from the stator.
 
Yes, but that is "the other safety relay" lol It blocks the starter when the engine is running (and its neighbor turns the headlight on). The relay in question blocks the starter unless the neutral or clutch switches are active.

the yellow wire safety relay:
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637


Well, the relay under discussion here, I messed with it some and discovered that it's normally open and that it won't turn on unless the kill switch is set to run. I never did have a clutch switch but I put a jumper on its connector so I could use the starter with the bike in gear. That meant this relay was always on as long as the bike was running. So what I did just now is get rid of the relay by connecting the two r/w wires together and taping off the other two. That gives me the exact same function I had before, but no relay. Maybe a hair better charging and reliability.
 
That diagram is full of errors. Page 159 of the Haynes manual has a similar diagram but it also has errors.

First, the relay called the safety relay is actually the Starter Lockout Relay. The switch called the circuit cut-off switch is actually the Clutch Switch. The Safety Relay contacts are not shown at all.................they should be in series with the engine stop switch.

If you look at the dotted line box (which actually is the Starter Lockout Relay); you need to disconnect the line at the bottom of the coil, and connect the coil bottom to the top of the switch within the dotted line.

So as it was drawn, it had many errors and could not possibly work.
 
It looked a little weird to me. I just went all through those switches and they were different on my bike.

About my comment on the 2 black wires, I was pointing that out because if it's a "factory" diagram, you would figure they would put red and black wires on the battery. Like they have been since the dawn of batteries.
 
RG, you're right, confirmed by measuring just now. The relay is actually like this inside. Correct your texts. lol
 

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There is also no fuse box on this one, but I'm used to an '81. My bike also had a sky blue wire going from the safety relay to the stator/rotor and also branched off into the dash (pilot box). The one on here shows the sb going to the dash, but not to stator.
 
Taking it out saves me 1.5 watts of rice juice. Since mine was on all the time.
 
Since I got rid of all that stuff, and the starter, my bike sounds like it fires up better. Seriously, it has a quicker "pop". Like it doesn't take a little second before it fires. Seems like it's started before my kicker is even all the way down.
 
I can believe that. I want to keep my ability to restart without coming to a complete halt first though. So I'll keep the other relays. That's okay as long as I can jumper them out if need be someday. But I'm going to have a look for any relays, etc. that would turn my lights off if they failed though.
 
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