A ripp'n hardtail bobber build from a seized, desert rat: CALLING ALL DESTROYERS

ive complained a lot about there not being a lot of options of tasteful controls for motorcycles. the set of controls i was going to use (mentioned earlier in this thread) turned out being a dud. i wasnt convinced it was the best looking but it was the best i could find, however, the controls were just simply hokey and i didnt like how the kill switch operated (it grounded out everything rather than shutting off power).

the module which controls all my lights calls for momentary switches. so rather than having a huge block of red ugly switches i decided to use these:
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/mini-push-button-switch/part/BC-49-3225

they even have a concave washer which leads to a clean install:
photo-17.jpg


dont buy them from the site i did. they use the slowest method of shipping possible.

the handlebars are drilled with the wires running through it, and a switch on either side to control my blinkers. no need for a headlight switch as im running brights constantly.

clean and minimal just like the rest of the bike!
 
ive complained a lot about there not being a lot of options of tasteful controls for motorcycles. the set of controls i was going to use (mentioned earlier in this thread) turned out being a dud. i wasnt convinced it was the best looking but it was the best i could find, however, the controls were just simply hokey and i didnt like how the kill switch operated (it grounded out everything rather than shutting off power).

the module which controls all my lights calls for momentary switches. so rather than having a huge block of red ugly switches i decided to use these:
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/mini-push-button-switch/part/BC-49-3225

they even have a concave washer which leads to a clean install:
photo-17.jpg


dont buy them from the site i did. they use the slowest method of shipping possible.

the handlebars are drilled with the wires running through it, and a switch on either side to control my blinkers. no need for a headlight switch as im running brights constantly.

clean and minimal just like the rest of the bike!
 
keeping quiet:

its been a few days since my bike has been completed and ive been a little quiet about it. well im not the only one thats been quiet. the bike has been quiet too.

after assembled, calling all destroyers was kicked over a few times and nothing happened. i was hoping to that it would a first kick type bike. bummer. up until today its a lot of kicks and nothing happening type bike.

i havent reached out because i wanted to figure out what the issue was so i could learn for next time. immediately the bike got combed through to see what was up. of course the usually suspects were tested.
hmmm bad ground?
bad connection?
burned out fuse?
no gas?
??????
all was good except no spark!


turns out a connection was forgotten. i forgot to connect power to the coils and electronic ignition!
duhhh:
wiring.jpg


after making the proper connection i had spark and after bike was re-assembled bike was kicked over

WOOF! Calling All Destroyers made a sound like things were firing on first kick, only to realize that the battery is dead

WTF.

today i will get a battery charger and get this thing on the road all ready
 
Not running a pma? If you are, you shouldn't need the battery to kick it over, unless your headlight is always on..

Oddly enough, I was looking for momentary buttons for my signals last night and came across those ones on ebay. Very nice..
 
Tron said:
Not running a pma? If you are, you shouldn't need the battery to kick it over, unless your headlight is always on..

Oddly enough, I was looking for momentary buttons for my signals last night and came across those ones on ebay. Very nice..
Click to expand...

No capacitor/ or Condenser? I thought you needed a Capacitor
if running not running a battery.
 
FIRE FIRE FIRE!

with a little bit of starter fluid and a couple of kicks
CALLING ALL DESTROYERS came to life!
and man does it sound mean.

despite coming to life and firing up. i knew the the carbs needed to be adjusted, either that or the throttle cable is too short as the slides in the carbs are already raised 1/2" at rest:
photo-18.jpg


after firing up the bike i quickly turned it off and inspected the carbs to deduce that its the throttle cable. i spoke to michael at 650 central and he mentioned that a longer throttle cable wouldnt fix the problem because the free play is always the same (the difference between the outer housing and the inner cable). the only way to remedy this is to make the outer housing shorter so that the inner cable has more free play.

im going to look into this...
 
RpNSht said:
i thought the same
i opted for battery instead of capacitor
im thinking i should have done the opposite
Click to expand...

Yeah Im pretty sure you need a capacitor to balance/steady the voltage a PMA's putting out. I know it's massive compared to the stock charging system, which even then produced enough to blow components.

Theoretically it could work without either, but, I would imagine not for long.

Go on ebay, lowborw's ebay store has em, $17 - Shipped. They're much cheaper than batteries. My first reason for wanting a PMA set up. lol I have that same one on my Honda Cafe, works excellent. Hottest Headlights possible on that small charging system and the Cap. keeps em' bright with no flickering.

At any rate, you'll need a Battery for startup/tuning. Well not NEED but it's easier, more accurate.
 
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well that was it! removing the throttle cable the slides or cut-a-ways in the carbs dropped almost all the way. adjusting the idle screws helped close them a bit more.
the outer housing of the throttle cable got still got a trim anyways; about half an inch to give some more free play. with everything back together and a borrowed, smei-charged battery CALLING ALL DESTROYERS fired back to life.

i noticed that the lights flickered a bit and im thinking theres too much draw. im going to investigate this capacitor idea....
 
thanks for the tip. i noticed my hot bright lights flickering a little and the huge light im using for a blinker in the front is dim.

i havent researched this but where do you connect the capacitor?
im going to check out low brow
thanks again for the tip!

cleoncleon said:
Yeah Im pretty sure you need a capacitor to balance/steady the voltage a PMA's putting out. I know it's massive compared to the stock charging system, which even then produced enough to blow components.

Theoretically it could work without either, but, I would imagine not for long.

Go on ebay, lowborw's ebay store has em, $17 - Shipped. They're much cheaper than batteries. My first reason for wanting a PMA set up. lol I have that same one on my Honda Cafe, works excellent. Hottest Headlights possible on that small charging system and the Cap. keeps em' bright with no flickering.

At any rate, you'll need a Battery for startup/tuning. Well not NEED but it's easier, more accurate.
Click to expand...
 
RpNSht said:
thanks for the tip. i noticed my hot bright lights flickering a little and the huge light im using for a blinker in the front is dim.

i havent researched this but where do you connect the capacitor?
im going to check out low brow
thanks again for the tip!
Click to expand...

For sure dude. Cap. wires in like a battery would. Nothing special, that's the fun convenience, you can use either or whenever...

From what I read somewhere on here, PamcoP. said if you wire in the Cap. in reverse, it'll explode. So, be sure to have the ground wire on the ground terminal and hot on hot... Watch me still fuck this up.. :shrug:
 
do the buttons that you used have alot of play to them???
(and buy that i mean how far do you have to push down on them?)
 
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