Alternator brush question

[Michaelo]

Drop a DC volt multimeter over your battery check voltage, then start and take from idle to 3000 rpm, watch the voltage increase.....this is where the variable between bikes charging is, but you can rest easier knowing that there is charge present and charging your new battery. I've done the same as you (except the 600 grt) have and mine is charging around 1.8 volts above the idle voltage from memory.
A fully charged battery (correct me if I am wrong) will have most of the charge coming from the rotor / stator dumped through the regulator, so it will appear on the volt meter not to be charging very much at all where in actual reality its just been dumped through the the regulator and into coil that sits directly next to the regulator....hope that makes sense....
Nothing wrong with rotor / stator charging system on these, just maintain it....

 

[Megatron]

Update: bike charges and works have not had any problems since.

Thanks for the help yall.

 

[nj1639]

Since I have a VOLTMETER installed between my gauges, I noticed that the voltage was starting to jump all around in the upper RPM's while riding, from 14+ to 12 +/- volts.....idle charging was fine. Pulled the brushes and how about that.....beyond the wear limit.

If you're going to run a speedometer and a tach then you should also run a voltmeter.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Good catch, before it stranded you. Volt meter, it's a good thing, Martha Stewart.

Scott

 

[xjwmx]

You can make an alternator warning light. If you have a starter lockout relay like the one on the dual board with the yellow wire going to it, connect the wire coming from the relay to an unused light on the dash. I used the white light on my '81. It comes on when you turn the key on and goes off when the engine starts and the generator starts working, and comes on while you're riding if the generator ever fails.