I'm riding my XS650 up and camping but I have a guy carrying a cooler and my CT-70 in his truck. Most of the folks from out of town drive and pull a trailer with bikes on it. Many stay at hotels around the area and ride their bikes into the track every day. I have driven up in a car with a friend many times and once by myself. I know a bunch of fellows that will drive in for a day.
Yes, it is as good as you have heard. Better, really. Imagine a great acid trip where all you see is bikes, race bikes, custom bikes, vintage bikes that you would only see in a museum. All riding past as you relax in the shade of a tree sipping a beer. That's three days of VMD.
Tom Graham