Bearing spacers

Your picture doesn't make sense, you measured wrong, or something else.

View attachment 221874
Directly below the long bearing spacer you show the left-side axle spacer with the pressed on dust cover, which looks silvery in your pic. That spacer and cover is the same for all years, and the outside diameter of the dust cover is 60mm. There is no way in the world that the long bearing spacer is 58 mm long, which would make it shorter than the spacer and dust cover below it in your pic.
The disc wheel inside bearing spacer is 98mm long, not 100mm. Re-measure yours. Post a pic with it alongside a metric ruler.
What’s the very top part in the pic? The one I destroyed driving the old bearings out…
 
It's not destroyed, it's usable. It slides over the bearing spacer (the 98mm one). All it does is keep the bearing spacer centered enough in the hub until you insert the axle. That will make sense when you install the second bearing, and will make more sense when you install the axle.
You can make one out of any old piece of metal, and I think it might be a good idea to have two, one near each end of the bearing spacer when dealing with disc brake wheels.
 
It's not destroyed, it's usable. It slides over the bearing spacer (the 98mm one). All it does is keep the bearing spacer centered enough in the hub until you insert the axle. That will make sense when you install the second bearing, and will make more sense when you install the axle.
You can make one out of any old piece of metal, and I think it might be a good idea to have two, one near each end of the bearing spacer when dealing with disc brake wheels.
Thank you. I appreciate all the info.
 
I suppose I got kinda lucky.
 

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I'd say yes, you did. That's less than the repops cost.
 
Got it all back together with new bearings and proper spacer install thanks to the knowledge here. Two final questions, I did a quick search and didn’t come up with a definitive answer. 1) what is the appropriate amount of slack for drive chain tension? 2) what is the proper torque for the axle nut?
 
3/4" 20mm

108.5 foot pounds, no slacking and just setting to 108 even! :sneaky:
My torque wrench is manual and only has 3 settings. 1) one hand 2) two hands 3) two hands and a foot pushing against the wall.

Thank you. You’ve been super helpful. Hadn’t ridden my bike in over a year because of all this happening while I had too many other projects going on.
 
Many of the 650 manuals give that single number for the axle but it's rather silly for a castle nut that has to be aligned for a cotter key. I think I tried tightening it once to 108 and could barely do it, lol. I've since checked all the manuals and discovered there is one that gives all the torque specs in ranges, the '77 manual .....

77TorqueSpecs.jpg


It gives the rear axle nut as a range from about 87 to 130. I just make it good 'n tight and align the cotter pin hole. But since I found this range, I did then check my "good 'n tight" setting. The torque wrench clicked at 87 so I know I'm tight enough to meet the minimum spec. I actually don't know how tight it is, but it's good enough, and I don't bother checking it with a torque wrench.
 
Many of the 650 manuals give that single number for the axle but it's rather silly for a castle nut that has to be aligned for a cotter key. I think I tried tightening it once to 108 and could barely do it, lol. I've since checked all the manuals and discovered there is one that gives all the torque specs in ranges, the '77 manual .....

View attachment 222189

It gives the rear axle nut as a range from about 87 to 130. I just make it good 'n tight and align the cotter pin hole. But since I found this range, I did then check my "good 'n tight" setting. The torque wrench clicked at 87 so I know I'm tight enough to meet the minimum spec. I actually don't know how tight it is, but it's good enough, and I don't bother checking it with a torque wrench.
So I pulled the cotter pin back out, loosened the nut and put my torque wrench on 100lbs. Got it to 100 and I was just a hair shy of lining up the hole to put the cotter pin back in. So I set the wrench to 105 and gave it a slight nudge and completely stripped the nut. The threads on the axle look fine, so I’ve got a new nut on the way. In the mean time, I can’t help but wonder if I did something wrong because I have this space here.
AD79140B-D7B8-4B90-8AB5-8DB11927FC1D.jpeg


I measured the spacers, so I know they’re right. I checked the bearings and they seem to be correct, so that just leaves the installation of the top hat spacer. I installed it with the flange on the inside of the bearing because that’s the way the diagram showed it. Should the flange side of the top hat spacer be outside of the bearing? Did I just fudge this all up??
 
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Flange goes in, you have that right. But yeah the space is not right, BUT that sheet metal cover slides on it's axle spacer, so can be "out of place" on the spacer.
It's not a big deal but the axle nut goes on the sprocket side.
Those chain adjuster bolts are in a long ways.
rear axle spacers dimensions.jpeg
 
Flange goes in, you have that right. But yeah the space is not right, BUT that sheet metal cover slides on it's axle spacer, so can be "out of place" on the spacer.
It's not a big deal but the axle nut goes on the sprocket side.
Those chain adjuster bolts are in a long ways.
View attachment 222552
Ok. So then somehow my chain tensioners got switched, because they will only allow the axle to go in this way. I’ll flip that around.

To get proper tension on the chain I had to adjust them almost all the way in. Can I just pull a link out of the chain?
 
Remember, you can't remove just one chain link, you must take out two. The chain needs to end on an inner link on both ends so the master link can fit in.
 
You can buy "link and a half" set-ups...

tim
 
??? Because you need two master links ...??

tim
 
Flange goes in, you have that right. But yeah the space is not right, BUT that sheet metal cover slides on it's axle spacer, so can be "out of place" on the spacer.
It's not a big deal but the axle nut goes on the sprocket side.
Those chain adjuster bolts are in a long ways.
View attachment 222552
Good info here thanks Gary.
Anyone have similar for disc brake models?
 
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