Blacking out an engine

Side cases sanded. Its all in the prep. Clean with laquer thinner and change out the rags the instant they are dirty. The exhaust is Krylon BBQ black spray paint. I do not know if the BBQ paint is resistant to fuel- thats why I used the PJ1 specific engine paint.
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Exhaust.

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Very nice look. I did some testing of paints before I sprayed and the VHT and Duplicolor definately washed off with gas. They are both Sherwin Williams comapny and probably use the same base. I did use VHT barrel paint on the jugs and it seemed to toughen up with time but will still come off with gas and a rag or any strong solvent. Strange enough the Duplicolor Aluminum color paint dries hard and is not affected by gas at all. I used Rustoleum BBQ paint on my headers and it does come off with gas and scuffs very easy. As time goes by it seems to lose the powder appearance and has stabilized so that rubbing it now does not transfer as much black onto a rag. It seems to be very thin though as I can see the steel coming through in a few areas. I like the look though for a vintage bike effect. The ACE paint is the only and best paint up against paint and solvents without going to a 2 part paint. I spoke to the ACE dealer and was told they are still using an old formula that has been left alone by EPA intrusion since they produce a small amount compared to big paint companies. Somday that will change but for now they do make great made in USA paint in a can.
 
What would be a good clear if you wanted to keep the engine raw metal, like after media blasting or polishing, but protect it from oxidation?

Best clear coat system I used in SprayMax. It is a 2 part one shot in a can. Dries hard and resistant to gas, oil, solvents. I see it listed on ebay and can be found through your local auto paint supplier. Great stuff. Same basic stuff they use for cars, but in a can.
Comes in gloss and satin.
 
Thanks Two Jugs. Unfortunatly the EPA is cracking down on cleaners and paints. A mom and pop cycle repair shop I like to use said they cannot get PJ1 paint. I go to the dealer and they not only carry PJ1 paints but can order what I need. I can order online for $9 per can and $9 shipping per can! No Thanks. I first tried Rustoleum BBQ black on my exhaust. Keep in mind my exh was sandblasted thoroughly and wiped down with Laq thinner. The Rustoleum was not a flat black but a powdery primer like dark gray. I hated it! The Krylon is a nice satin flat BLACK. It will dull at the head pipes and at the crossover (The dulling is minor and does not look bad). Does not come off mind you- just dulls. Very durable and easy to touch up. Did the same to my XS750 and it held up well on that bike too. The PJ1 engine paint has a great reputation. As with ANY paint project the surfaces must be scuffed up and clean clean clean clean!!
 
What would be a good clear if you wanted to keep the engine raw metal, like after media blasting or polishing, but protect it from oxidation?

IMHO there is no such thing as a 'good' clear - I have yet to see one that doesn't detract from a bare metal finish.

That said if you need to ride the bike in all weathers then I recognize the need to add some protection.

The simplest would be one of the anti corrosion sprays such as ACF-50 or Scott Oil. Quick and easy to apply but they do tend to get very grotty after a while. The upside is that when washed off the metal is still in good condition.

Next would a clear lacquer. Whilst you could use a spray can to do this it does not tend to have the durability and is easily scratched which will cause snail trails once water penetrates and can discolour over time.

A two pack lacquer whilst far more durable would add a significant cost.

Clear powder-coat is durable but is relatively soft so will scratch quite easily and can't be easily repaired.

Finally there is clear anodizing which is arguably the most durable.

Obviously the last three would need to be applied by a specialist so there will be a fair bit of cost involved.

If the bike is only used for fine days then keep it polished bare metal which provided it is cleaned every few months or so looks the best.
 
My friend told me today that Eastwood makes a great clear. He uses it on his car intake manifold. But, it never gets driven, so I'm Leary about it.
As long as it's not dangerous, I am riding. I also live in a salty environment, next to the ocean. So I would love to find something to help protect my engine.
 
Someone makes aerosol paint and clears that have to be activated by punching a button that releases the hardeners and such. Once activated the user has 12 hours to use the product. Supposed to be automotive quality. I dont know if it holds up to engine heat though.
 
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