Blowing 20amp fuse when turning ignition key

[MadHatch]

Hey all,

I have a 77' xs650 with PMA + Reg/Rec combo, E-Advance, and shorai antigravity battery.

My 20amp fuse is blowing each time I turn my ignition key to on. The moment I turn the switch, I see the bulb blow.

If I disconnect the ground to the right handle bar switch, the fuse does not blow, and all lights work, however the starter button won't turn over the bike, due to it not being grounded (yes?). Strange...

Has anyone had this issue? I've checked my grounds and am not finding anything not grounded properly... Trying to sort out where to start diagnosing. When it comes to wiring, I'm definitely on the beginner side, and don't want to do harm than good.

I have a power probe 3, and when I send a - through the power send button on the probe to the start button, without the right handle bar switch grounded, the bike starts.

Hoping some of the more experienced wiring guys may know what would cause this to happen.

 

[Jim]

I've checked my grounds and am not finding anything not grounded properly...

Missing a ground causes stuff to not work. It won't cause a fuse to blow. A power wire shorted to ground (when it isn't supposed to) is what blows fuses. Without a multi-meter you're somewhat limited in finding shorts. Your best bet is going to be disconnect everything except the ignition switch. You should then be able to turn it on without blowing the fuse. Then start connecting stuff one at a time until the fuse blows. That should get you in the general direction of what's shorted.
Alternatively you could disconnect one thing at a time until the fuse quits blowing.... but you'll burn through a lot of fuses that way.

 

[MadHatch]

I'll do that now, thank you!

 

[MadHatch]

Quick update,

I found after checking everything and investing in a multimeter, that my right hand control unit was all live oddly enough. I replaced it with a new right hand control unit, to then find that my handler bars weren't properly grounded. I grounded the starter button with my power probe and sure enough, kicked over.

Now that I have the bike up and running, I'm setting the timing with a timing light, link here.

Bike: 1977 XS650
Recent Installs
1. PMA KIT (LINK)
2. XSCHARGE E-Ignition Kit w/ E-Advance (LINK)

I'm finding TDC with a piston stop, and degree wheel. When I try to start the bike with the sensor plate in the "ballpark" position, I find the bike coughs and doesn't want to start. If I rotate the sensor plate counter clockwise as far as it will go, to get my TDC close to my firing marks, but it still scares me how far to the left my TDC mark is at idle.

I've attached a photo of my sensor plate position, as well as my PMA. And I've linked a video of the bike running to show you where my marks are when the timing light is going off.

VIDEO LINK

Any timing guru's know what could be causing my mark to be so far to the left?

 

[stinky78]

I bought the same ignition minus the E-advance thinking I was buying a Pamco, this was when Mikes was in transition and still selling both, I had to take to the base plate with a chainsaw file to get it to turn far enough to get the timing right, I believe others had the same experience, I’ve never really trusted it cause I figure if they can’t get that right what else might be wrong with them, if you do it make sure you wrap it up well to make sure no aluminium filings get into the electrickery, then give it a good blow out, you don’t want any shorts!

 

[MadHatch]

Thanks Stinky78,

I did the same damn thing. At the time assumed, and didn't read the fine print. I'll file it down tomorrow and get it timed right! Appreciate it.

 

[MadHatch]

I ended up shaving it down and putting it back together... but now it doesn't even want to start... coughs a ton but won't hold an idle.

I'm contemplating going back to points. Does anyone know if I do, do I have to convert back to the original coils, or can I keep the dual out put coil? Would love to keep the reg/rec + PMA + Dual Output Coil, and just swap the points in if possible.

 

[azman857]

No. Electronic Iggy coils are 3 ohms or less. Point coils are higher. Points will burn up with a dual outlet 3 ohm coil.

 

[MadHatch]

Copy that.

I ended up shifted it around and reinstalling the sensor plate several times and finally got my timing set. Just took several attempts.

Now onto cleaning the carbs

 

[lakeview]

Good to hear you are making progress.