1. Dismiss Notice
  2. Hey Facebook people... We've created a group for XS650.com members to connect. Check it out!
    Dismiss Notice

Bottom fork clamp stripped bolt

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Delmarva, May 28, 2016.

Tags:
  1. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    I have searched all around and cannot find the info I seek. I am working on 1981 xs650h bobber. I removed the front wheel to true it up and found that a previous owner had stripped the front bolt on the bottom clamp that tightens against the axel flange. (Left fork bottom). The front nut will not tighten. I feel this can be an unsafe condition and would like to replace the stud or what ever you call it. It looks like it could thread up into the end of the fork and if I used a stud remover it may come out. Would that work? I don't want to break the fork or bugger it up in a way that would cost me. Please advise!
     
  2. angus67

    angus67 Welder's penetrate deeper!!

    don't try anything until gggary chimes in. Hes our guy when it comes to rejuvenation of this sort. He knows what bolt extractors work, and which ones don't. If you use the wrong app here, could rip out the threads holding in the stud. I believe its locktited in very firmly.
    If all else fails, might grab a good lower off ebay, or put in a want add here in the classifieds.
     
  3. XSLeo

    XSLeo XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    Until gggGary shows, Do you have a electric heat gun. If so try heating the area around the stud with it before you try the stud puller. If no heat gun a hand held propane torch will work, just be careful. Too much heat can melt alloy before you know it's too hot, it don't change color like steel.
    Another option is good if you have a welder or know someone who does. Put a nut on the stud far enough so a few threads stick out past the nut. Weld the nut to the stud. This heats the stud and breaks any thread lock or corrosion holding the stud, Quickly try a rachet and sock to remove the stud.
    Turn it out a bit then back in, this helps release the stud from the threads.
    Leo
     
  4. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    Thanks for the responces. Raining here so it'll have to wait. I will try the torch method and will keep the melting alloy in mind!
     
  5. DrewMartin

    DrewMartin Old fashioned new guy

    If you do try the torch method, there's a couple more steps you can do to help out. Heat the stud itself a few times to try to cook off any oxidation or thread locker that may be in there, ideally you'll get most the stud glowing a dull orange while being mindful of the aluminum. Let it cool to where it's not glowing any more and use some kind of penetrating lubricant. Be careful, if you spray the oil too early it may flash off and catch fire, if it does, don't panic, it'll go out pretty quick.

    Once it mostly cools down it'll probably come right out with a pair of vice grips.
     
  6. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    Took a while to get around to it but.... Borrowed a welder and welded the nut to the stud and it came right out. Couldnt find a new stud so got a bolt that was the right size and made my own. Thanks for the advice! M8 x 1.25 is the stud size and pitch.

    By the way, why does it have a gap between the bottom and the fork (the clamp piece is thicker on one side) to get more force on the axel? It is torqued properly, i thinks.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. mrtwowheel

    mrtwowheel Honda Etched On Brain Top Contributor

    There should be a gap, but the gap should be at the rear part of the clamp, your installation is wrong according to Yamaha. Someone should be here soon with the right sequence and torque.

    Scott
     
  8. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    19,392
    10,715
    813
    Yes, you have that clamp part on backwards. The thicker portion should be on the front. Look on the bottom of the clamp and you should see an arrow cast into it. That should point forward. Torque spec isn't super high, only about 9 to 16 ft/lbs. Many of the 650 manuals give this spec as a single number (11 ft/lbs). This 9 to 16 value comes from an XS500 manual. The forks are virtually the same and I find a torque range more user friendly than a single number spec.
     
  9. mrtwowheel

    mrtwowheel Honda Etched On Brain Top Contributor

    Basically, arrow to the front, snug and close the front gap, tighten the rear to specified torque.

    Scott
     
  10. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    Ok. I think I'm straight now. I see now that this clamp has more to do with keeping the fork in the right position than carrying the axle.

    THANKS everyone!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  11. fredintoon

    fredintoon Fred Hill, S'toon. Top Contributor

    Hi Del,
    great that you got the axle clamp sorted but WTF happened to the axle itself? The fat end of the axle should stick out from the clamp perhaps 3/8" and have a smooth shiny end and a cross-hole drilled through it. OK, I've seen some axle ends with welt marks from the mis-use of a BFH but yours seems to have been sawn off short with a hacksaw.
     
  12. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    Must be the camera angle. It does stick out a little and have the hole you mentioned.
     
  13. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    You'se guys are just too fast for me! Good call on welding on a nut. Did you loctite the new bolt/stud into the fork leg? prolly should, aughter to do that. For SURE use a new nut as well, slurge and replace them both with new nylockers.

    Oops must have been asleep at the switch, I see this thread was months old!
    It also appears you got your nuts off um I mean replaced with new, Good job!
     
  14. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    Red locktight, yes (that stuff is expensive). Some how in the process I have disabled the speedo. Another remove i guess!
     
  15. fredintoon

    fredintoon Fred Hill, S'toon. Top Contributor

    Hi Del,
    your axle may not have been sawn off short but it's end sure looks traumatized.
    If not saw marks perhaps road rash?
    No, red Locktite only costs money.(and a little goes a long way, unless you lose the tube) Having studs fall out is expensive.
    But yeah, the speedo drive inner side has two notches that line up with two dogs in the wheel hub.
    Most likely yours slipped out of alignment on assembly. Pull the wheel and try again.
    Hopefully nothin' got damaged.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2016
  16. Delmarva

    Delmarva XS650 Member

    Pulled thd wheel, everything looked good and I could hear the cable whirring when i spun the front tire as i reassembled but road test had the needle laying motionless. Will try to check it out again tomarra.
     

Share This Page