colebrooker
XS650E US import
It's a simple question really but how do I hold the rod through the camshaft in place while adjusting the timing marks and tightening the nut on the right hand side? It's a 00303 kit with electronic advance.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
boyer branson fitting
- Thread starter colebrooker
- Start date
I hold the Boyer ignition rotor with a pair of channel locks (slip-joint water pump pliers) while tightening the nut and add a jam nut in addition to blue Loctite. Others may have methods that are a little less crude.
I normally hold the rotor in place with a spanner on the pickups then start doing up the nut on the other side you don't need to much pressure on it before it locks in place this way you can have it lined up with the marker hole whole you do it, probably not the recommended way as the pickups aren' held on by much but it does normally work and have only broken one and that one was years old.
If you stick your finger threw the hole in the middle of the PCB you should be able to apply enough pressure to hand tighten the nut on the right side without the magnetic rotor moving. Then a quick little pinch with a spanner will tighten the nut enough so it will not move. It does not have to be super tight. Then use the strobe light to fine tune at full advance by rotating the pcb board in a similar manner to adjusting points.
The Boyer Bransden system is a little fiddly and three hands would make the job a lot easier. If the full advance is still out you will need to make another small adjustment to the right side nut and move the magnetic rotor slightly. Anticlockwise rotation advances. When the adjustment for full advance has been made the small paint dot may or may not be visible through the small hole. The purpose of the paint dot is just to get the timing close enough to allow the engine to start. My paint dot lies just outside the upper edge of the view hole.
What model XS do you have?
The Boyer Bransden system is a little fiddly and three hands would make the job a lot easier. If the full advance is still out you will need to make another small adjustment to the right side nut and move the magnetic rotor slightly. Anticlockwise rotation advances. When the adjustment for full advance has been made the small paint dot may or may not be visible through the small hole. The purpose of the paint dot is just to get the timing close enough to allow the engine to start. My paint dot lies just outside the upper edge of the view hole.
What model XS do you have?
colebrooker
XS650E US import
Thanks chaps for your ideas. I have done it with the water pump type tool and green locktite. It's not ready for the strobe
yet but I have one here now. The bike is a 77/78 E and still original green paint.
Peanut, what is the Max advance error?
yet but I have one here now. The bike is a 77/78 E and still original green paint.
Peanut, what is the Max advance error?
Green Loctite? Ouch. Hope you don't need to realign the rotor when you check timing with the strobe.
In the video I pointed to the minimum advance mark which is just before the TDC mark . I should have pointed to the MAximum Advance mark for setting up the Boyer which is of course the mark furthest away from TDC .
it won't matter , Its simply gluing the stator plate to the end of a plain threaded brass rod.
Any slight adjustment can be set by using the stator adjustment slots
if you need more than that then the cam and crank are not correctly indexed at TDC.The Advance curve is set by the Boyer chip unless Cole is using a non electronic advance Boyer kit
Last edited:
colebrooker
XS650E US import
OK, that is what I have used so no problem.
Maybe I misunderstood; I thought cole was talking about Loctite on both ends of the rod, nut as well as rotor. I've done a few Boyer-Bransden installations on the XS650 over the last 25 years. Usually getting the rotor paint mark centered in the timing plate hole with the crank at the full advance mark gets you close enough that the timing plate slots allow enough adjustment to dial things in, but every now and again the rotor has to be moved a bit.
I've only fitted one Boyer , the one in my video and that turned out almost spot on from the initial installation so I assumed that provided the cam is correctly indexed to the crank at TDC then it shouldn't need the stator moving more than the adjustment slots like you say.
That said, Its surprising how many owners seem to manage to end up with their cam chain 1x link out . ??
That said, Its surprising how many owners seem to manage to end up with their cam chain 1x link out .
??Having the cam one link out won't make any difference to the ignition timing as it set up from where the crank is, boyer is on a loose threaded bar and can end up anywhere, just needs to be set up on the crank position.
Exactly, Jay. The Boyer rotor can be positioned anywhere in relation to the camshaft. But camshaft timing does influence Boyer ignition timing (and the timing of any camshaft-driven ignition) on an old installation. As the cam chain stretches and the tensioner takes up slack, the camshaft is retarded, and the ignition with it. Eventually with points, Boyer timing plate, etc., you run out of adjustment to advance the ignition. As with a breaker point ignition, that condition is a warning that the cam chain needs to b e replaced--assuming, of course, that the Boyer ignition was initially timed with the timing plate centered on the screws. No camshaft driven ignition is "set and forget."
