brake disc don't fit with new brake pads

[marp68]

gggGary, You're forgiven

And btw, I looked up "a 'merikan..." http://sv.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Merikans. Interesting explanation...

Btw 2, I once lived in Ann Arbor, MI, for a short while. Had met a nice american girl that was working here in Sweden. She went back, I went after, I moved back. Really enjoyed my time there though. Has a special place in my heart. And my sister lived in LA for a while, but I visited her only once, since it's quite a distance. Otherwise I just made some vacation trips with my ex girlfriend. I now recall the beautiful Mackinac Island. We also made a car trip down in Arizona.

 

[gggGary]

Grin!! ...

 

[CBJamie]

I is an merikan

 

[gggGary]

Those calipers need to come off to get the wheel off a PITA. Wonder how Yamaha dealt with that on the early racers? If I were gonna mess with it I think I would loose the stud and just use one long bolt through the fork and both caliper halves. The other bolt would keep the caliper leak free for assembly. there is an o-ring seal on the fluid passage. I might have to bore the fork tab hole out bit. But that's me and sometimes I take chances.....

 

[XSLeo]

Ok, as I looked at your pics there was something not quite right about them. I had to go out and look at my bikes to be sure.
Your forks are not 76 forks. Your PO put them on the wrong sides. Your forks are 75 fork, they look just like my 75 forks. The calipers should be on the front of the forks.
I determined this because in your pics the axle nut is on the left side. It should be on the right side.
With two calipers, when you tighten the axle nut it pulls the wheel and everything attached to the right, this lines up the rotor centered in the caliper.
On the other side it may not line up exactly centered. Before you tighten the axle clamp bolts slide the fork in or out a mm or two so the rotor is centered in the caliper.
It shouldn't take much.
On the steel lines that hook into the calipers you would need to get an adapter. One end should have an AN3 fitting the braided line can screw onto, the other should have a 10x1.00 or 1.25 metric thread. This is so it can thread intro the caliper where the steel line goes. You can't easily use a banjo bolt. They are too long. The hole in the caliper isn't deep enough.
Once you get the adapters you can use the braided steel lines.
Leo

 

[650Skull]

Post #9,

Your 75B had the forks changed over from the Yamaha factory. You will probably find there is a tab for the brake line facing forward as well as the one on the rear.

Ok, as I looked at your pics there was something not quite right about them. I had to go out and look at my bikes to be sure.
Your forks are not 76 forks. Your PO put them on the wrong sides. Your forks are 75 fork, they look just like my 75 forks. The calipers should be on the front of the forks.
I determined this because in your pics the axle nut is on the left side. It should be on the right side.
With two calipers, when you tighten the axle nut it pulls the wheel and everything attached to the right, this lines up the rotor centered in the caliper.
On the other side it may not line up exactly centered. Before you tighten the axle clamp bolts slide the fork in or out a mm or two so the rotor is centered in the caliper.
Leo

XSLeo,

Euro XSB's had the forks reversed from the Factory. The brake line tab was welded on for the rear caliper and the old one is left on and is facing forward. Can't see the tab that holds the speedo drive still but i'm Guessing Yamaha did the same by welding another on the fork lower and leaving the old on on the other fork. The Decals were slightly different as well. These have something to do with the 533 type engines.

Oceania and the US and others got the specially made forks for the 76 and on the brochures i have the Euro 76 also has the 74/75 frorks swapped over from the factory with the axle locking tab on the right

 

[marp68]

Those calipers need to come off to get the wheel off a PITA. Wonder how Yamaha dealt with that on the early racers? If I were gonna mess with it I think I would loose the stud and just use one long bolt through the fork and both caliper halves. The other bolt would keep the caliper leak free for assembly. there is an o-ring seal on the fluid passage. I might have to bore the fork tab hole out bit. But that's me and sometimes I take chances.....

The wheel CAN come off without removing the calipers. Just start sliding the wheel with rotor out a bit, then turn the forks and calipers outwards a bit and then slide the rest of the wheel out.

Interesting idea about replacing the stud with long bolt, if it not starts to leak.

XSLeo, I do have -75 34 mm forks. The bike is a B -75. GReat tip about centering the rotor and replace metal tube with adapter.

650Skull, nice bike!

 

[XSLeo]

Ok, I should know better, I keep forgetting that not all bikes are USA versions.
Leo

 

[marp68]

Just an update...

I used c-clamps to push the pistons back in using the new brake pads. Thanks for the tip. Had to use some force though. Strange, since the brakes worked quite well, they so to speak stopped the bike well and fast. The only thing I've noticed is that the pistons doesn't move enough to release the rotor completely, or as much as on my previous bikes. So the rotor became hot.

Both new pads now fit and the caliper can be fitted on the rotor. Since the pistons don't move easily in and out, I should probably remove and rebuild the calipers. I will first however try using some brake cleaner and a brush to clean the outer now visible part of the caliper hole out a bit. Since I don't have an air gun or similar, I would have to use the lever to pump them out as much and equal as possible and then try get them out by gripping them from the inside.

Any other tip about using something else than using air or grease gun to get the pistons out? Before draining the brake fluid. I've read a lot of the threads about repairing the caliper. Hopefully I don't have to buy the rebuild kit. Two sets with new pistons are rather expensive.

 

[gggGary]

Marpa; I understand your wanting to reduce time and cost, but... This is your front brake! Strip, clean, reassemble. With the build up of crud from the years in there they won't work right til clean. Since the calipers will be off you can visit a shop with air to blow the pucks out. Remember to wrap them in a rag before you you hit them with air. A C-clamp works as a stop for the blow out also. Better clean used parts than dirty used parts.

 

[fredintoon]

. - - - Hopefully I don't have to buy the rebuild kit. Two sets with new pistons are rather expensive.

Hi marp,
OK, rebuild kits cost money.
Fixing a collision damaged bike will cost even more money.
It's the after-collision hospitalization that's rather expensive.

 

[marp68]

Okej, okej, Just my health has been bad for a while now. Everything seems heavy and difficult. Have even been thinking for a while about just selling the bike, even though I love it.

But with this much inspirational talk, I can't but agreeing and get to work and do it properly.... Thanks. I might post some images and questions along the road

But before pressing out the pistons with the lever, wouldn't it be a good idea to use brake cleaner to clean out some of the smudge, rust etc. from the surfaces in the hole infront of the pistons? So the piston might come out more easily and whole.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi marp,
don't sell! you'll get seller's remorse then go out and buy a new bike on unaffordable payments, it'll be the start of a downward financial spiral and won't end well, eh?
Hopefully you'll get better soon; pumping the vitamins, losing some weight and exercising more will help with that. WTF, if it worked for this old fat man it'll work for you.
And yeah, an exterior cleanup before a teardown is always a good thing.
But that's before, NOT instead of.

 

[marp68]

Thanks fredintoon, I will eat my vitamins etc... Hopefully it will results in more rides in the future...

Brake cleaner seems to be bad for rubber parts. But since the rubber parts is behind the pistons, not visible, would it be okej to use it for doing a preclean of the surfaces in the caliper infront of the pistons? Or would it be better to use general rust resolver, like wd40, until removing the pistons and rubber parts?

 

[mrtwowheel]

Brake cleaner should be okay for those rubber parts. Some carburetor cleaners will destroy rubber parts.

Scott

 

[marp68]

Ah, great. Thanks. Would it be okej to let the brake cleaner soak during the night as well before removing it? And what's your opinion on using rust resolver, like wd40 or similar, before removing the pistons? I like to be well prepared before starting. Have never rebuilt calipers.

 

[Gibson]

I also had this problem with both RD and XS iron calipers. I guess they are just prone to seizing pucks when they sit for a while. I was able to free them without removing pucks on both by splitting the halves and working them with a c clamp. I think with these it may be a good idea to change fluid every season. I agree that rebuilding them is no doubt the best thing to do...

 

[mrtwowheel]

WD40 has swelled rubber parts for me before, so much that they couldn't be used.

Scott

 

[Gibson]

I would not use anything but clean brake fluid on these parts.

 

[marp68]

Got it, mrwowheel.

Gibson, why not use brake cleaner? Didn't think brake fluid could clean effectively.