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I over touqued in a rush on my last oil change and need to do another, anyone know where I can purchase new bolts? Also any tips on extracting the broken one would be appreciated
Hi sk,
do NOT use an easyout! Their very name is a lie and what they usually do is snap off in the bolt stub like a diamond-hard carrot leaving you with the appalling cost and effort of a total teardown and an EDM operation on the casting.
Start with a LEFT hand 3/16" drill bit in the hope that it'll catch in the broken stud and thread it out.
When that don't work, drill the stud out with a 6mm drill bit and salvage the hole with a Helicoil or other thread repair insert.
Be sure the replacement fasteners are grade 8.8 or stronger, the el-cheapo fasteners the hardware store sells will break off too easy.
And buy yourself a 1/4" square drive torque wrench.
I thought those paticuliar bolts were designed to "snap" off?
To keep from pulling the case threads out.
OP you might have enough of the bolt left to grab with vise grips after you get the cover off.
+ 1 What WER says. they are on purpose easy to break and with the cover off it's usually easy to get the remains out. For a replacement a hardware store metric bolt is fine.
The local auto store sells LH drill bits if needed.
Hi Gary, WER,
designed to snap off first? Sounds to me like an urban legend.
In my half-century+ experience of repairing busted stuff it's ALWAYS been easier to fix a stripped thread than it was to dig out a busted bolt and then half the time have to fix the thread afterwards anyway.
Especially since Helicoils and the like became available.
And IMHO, the hardware store Gr5.6 fasteners are a step in the wrong direction.
I'd switch the sump plate bolts to Allen head fasteners for easier wrenching (and they are usually Gr 10.9.)
AND I'd use a torque wrench, eh?
No it's for real, those bolts have a special part number. A stripped thread open to the oil sump that would let a bolt fall out is not trivial. Guys break them all the time, they snap at the head and you just remove the cover, grab the stump of the bolt with pliers and thread it out, replace.
someone should neck down and sell replacement "breakaway" bolts.
I doubt anyone would have the patience to wait for one though.
fredintoon don't make me go out and rip the sump off to check BUT lookin at them little bolts the neck between the threads end and the bottom of the bolt heaad look smaller than the shank of a regular outta the bin metric bolt?
With your 35+ years of experience do you really think 8 foot lbs warrants a grade 8?
Come on now, your yanking my chain, pulling my leg, bullshittin a bullshitter. . . . . right?
I was doing the sump filter on the 5k mile motor going into my wounded 79 today.
not really necked down but probably extra soft metal. Like old honda side cover screws. Remember how they would stretch instead of tightening, even with a crappy phillips screwdriver?
5k original I am about certain the sump had never been opened.
pic is before I cleaned the screen.
fredintoon don't make me go out and rip the sump off to check BUT lookin at them little bolts the neck between the threads end and the bottom of the bolt heaad look smaller than the shank of a regular outta the bin metric bolt?
With your 35+ years of experience do you really think 8 foot lbs warrants a grade 8?
Come on now, your yanking my chain, pulling my leg, bullshittin a bullshitter. . . . . right?
Hi WER,
no BS, honest. Perhaps I have too much experience and am mis-applying it?
But yeah, 8 ft/lbs torque on an M6 don't need no Gr 8.8 bolt.
But what about ol' gorilla-arms with his 1/2" square drive ratchet, eh?
I still say it's an easier salvage to fix a stripped thread than to remove a broken bolt stub.
I had the same problem with a bike I bought recently, it was causing a bad oil leak. The bolt remnant cake out very easily with a pair of pliers. You will need to remove sump plate to get to it.