Broken float pin base fix?

[deemen]

Hi folks, first time poster here. I finally found an XS donor bike after looking forever. I have done a few builds on other bikes but I am still very much a beginner so I was very happy to find this site, I hope you guys don't mind questions!

The bike I was able to get is an '82 Heritage Special, it's only got 14,000 miles but it was definitely outside for a while. I pulled the carbs and everything was frozen up but in great shape. I was able to get everything moving and they are cleaning up nice.

Unfortunately when I was trying to get the float pins out one of the bases broke off. Here is a pic of what I mean...

I am wondering if I can maybe fix this with JB Weld? The bike is going to be hardtailed (so a lot of vibration/bumpiness). If the JB Weld is a bad idea I would love to hear any suggestions, or is my best bet to just go ahead and replace the carb body?

Thanks a bunch for any help.

 

[weekendrider]

You could try the jb, but I'd be looking for a set of carbs.
You might try a WTB ad in the classified.
Welcome to the site.

 

[jd750ace]

You could shave it flat, drill and tap it for a decent size screw, say 10-32, and use one with a relatively long shank that would protrude up and replace the post. Cross-drill it at the proper height from the face of the housing to recieve that end of the float pin. Other than that, new body. As admirable as lots of modern adhesives are , modern gass is nasty, nasty crap that eats just about everything. I wouldn't risk an adhesive.
$0.02

 

[racerdave]

I fixed several different snowmobile carbs, broke similar to yours with JB weld, It was before ethanol, but I'd give it a try. The one that was mine, was still fine when I sold the sled years later. Sleds run in a much more bumpy environment than a street bike,

 

[deemen]

Thanks so much for the replies, you guys are fast. It seems to be a bit subjective whether or not a fix would really be a solid way to deal with it so since I am going to sink some money into this build I'll just go with a replacement to be thorough. I am going to try a WTB post, just to be sure since I'm new to the XS these are Mikuni 34mm carbs right? Also would it make a difference when replacing the carb body whether or not it is the push button choke style (mine are not) or can they be interchanged?

 

[weekendrider]

BS34's. You can convert the sliders to pull type or vise-versa.
34's from 80 on will work.
You may want to do a bit more reading though. Seems like most want to change their CV carbs to something else. Save time and money if you were inclined that way.

 

[gggGary]

Any XS650 BS34 will interchange onto your flanges. If you get matching flanges, any XS650 carb set will fit on your engine.

BS34's from non XS650's won't fit your bike.

 

[deemen]

Thanks guys, what a great site, you guys are a great help. I have been reading a bunch on the carbs because I originally wanted to do a 2 into 1. Then I found the xs performance kit from Mikes XS which seemed like a great way to go until I read further and heard all the quality issues. Then I thought about the Mikuni Kit from 650 central but like with the Mikes kit it seems like there are as good reviews and bad. It's all very confusing. Are the CV's that bad on the XS? I've had a few KZ's and they are a bit of a pain in the ass to tune once the airbox and exhaust is modified but that seems to be true for all carbs to a certain extent?

Here's the bike, I had been looking for one of these forever. It will be getting hardtailed, and then the wheels and front end will be the only other things staying. Do people on this board generally have use for the stock parts I'll be pulling off? I'd gladly trade any of it in return for pointers and advice.

 

[racerdave]

GGGGary just told me today he collects the airboxs.

 

[gggGary]

Yer a real bud there RD! I'm boxing up your Christmas present now...

Stock chrome and beauty parts in REALLY good condition will find a home, rusty or bent stuff can go straight to the recycle bin.

 

[deemen]

Ha ha, that's what I figured, wasn't looking to get any money for anything I just didn't want to trash anything that someone might have a use for.

 

[GreasyC]

Aluminum can be soldered or brazed. You just need to use solder/flux or rods that are meant for the job. When a break is fresh like that it's easier than a heavily oxidized part.

 

[wherearewe]

There is a nice tip for preventing this ive seen a few places. Use a socket that fits snug and gives the body a little support. Also I've found using a little watch makers 'punch' is a safe way to extract the pins. Those punches are used for getting pins out of watch straps and lugs and can be bought for a few bucks.

 

[racerdave]

Yer a real bud there RD! I'm boxing up your Christmas present now...

Be sure to wrap those Leinie's Oktoberfest's well!

 

[daroberts3]

Bend the float pin ever so slightly so it is pushing the two broken pieces together. Done it before, worked ok. Any epoxy you use will not work. Looks like your carbs are pretty crappy though, maybe a replacement is your best bet.

 

[deemen]

Yeah, I decided to replace them, picked up these BS38's from a member here who does rebuilds...

 

[jetmechmarty]

After the fact, but I have some experience with this problem.

First, JB Weld will not stand up to the test of time. Gasoline will eventualldissolveve it. BTDT

Second, I tried swapping a carb body. You have to be careful here. I had a broken post in a XS1100 carb. It's a BS34, so why not use a body from a same year XS650? All the parts swapped and it looked like it was perfect. It wasn't. It wouldn't run very well.

Ultimately, I had it welded.

 

[xjwmx]

For future reference the easiest and safest way to pull the pin out is to use cutters like the one in the pic. Squeeze just enough to get it under the head of the "nail" and then rock it back on the built-in fulcrum to pull the pin. Local electronics store might have them. I got the ones I presently have at Goodwill in Austin in a bag with lots of other goodies. Also, when you put the pin back, just snug it. The bowl blocks it from coming out.

 

[pamcopete]

Well, this is a radical fix, but it will get you through the week end and if all goes well it could be a permanent fix.

1. Remove the fuel crossover and block the fuel inlet to the defective carb.
2. Arrange the fuel line so it only feeds the good carb.
3. Source appropriate fittings for the carb bowl drains.
4. Connect the carbs together with the fittings on the bowl drains.

This will allow the use of the good float to control the fuel level in both bowls.

1. Also guarantees that the fuel level will be identical in both carbs.
2. Also useful if you have a holed float.
3. If both floats are good, you get a spare for free.
4. Only have to adjust one float.

 

[XSLeo]

I have a spring loaded center punch. You put the punch against the float pin. Push the punch in by hand, the punch compresses the spring untill it reaches the release point and then the spring pushe the punch back out. You get a very controlled strike just where you need it.
Leo