Buckhorn to Euro bars - PROBLEM!!

buffaloborn

XS650 Enthusiast
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:confused:

Hey everyone,

I have a 1983 XS650 Heritage Special. I changed out the bars on the bike, from Buckhorns to the Euro bars. I rerouted the throttle cable, as directed from another thread from the right side of the tank to the left side of the tank, and under the controls. There is no significant loop as far as I can tell, but the damn thing kicks into a 4000 rpm idle when I start her, and increases without me even touching the throttle. I don't want to take the bike to a mechanic, as I'm fairly mechanically inclined. This is my first bike.

What am I doing wrong? Should I also reroute the clutch cable? Would this make a big difference with regards to this problem? Can I adjust the throttle? Or is this an issue regarding the idle screw?

Does anyone have pictures or youtube videos of switching bars using stock cables?

:banghead:
 
I changed by buckhorns to CB750 bars and kept all the routing the same, with no problem. But my bars might be a bit higher than yours. In your throttle cable, there should be some slack in the inner cable that you can see right at the carb. It sounds like your cable might be binding due to kinking, fraying, or lack of lubrication.
 
Is the carb adjusted? As in the throttle stop? If you unhooked the cable from the carb and started the bike, would it still race? The only way the carb would race is if the cable was pulling open the throttle. Know what I mean?
 
With all the extra twists and turns you may just need to adjust it. Loosen the cable until you can feel a little freeplay at the grip. Turn the bars from lock to lock, if the rpm raises when you turn the bars then loosen the cable a bit more.

On my XS400 the buckhorns were replaced with clubmans. Even after loosening the cable adjuster all the way, the rpm would still raise when I turned the bars. To remedy this, I bent down the bracket on top of the carbs that holds the cable housing. That put enough slack in the cable so it could be properly adjusted at the handle bar.

Also, if you haven't done so already, get one of those Motion Pro cable lubers and use it on the throttle and clutch cables every time you change the oil, or more frequently if needed.
 
Swapped my roto-tiller bars for a flat drag bar, had no real issues with the throttle. I had to adjust my clutch though.


P
 
You may have pinched or bound the throttle cable up when installing the tank. Your routing may be off a bit or you may have tied the cable to the main backbone too tightly. Pull the tank and start the bike. It will run for a minute or so with the gas left in the bowls. See if it races with the tank off. Make sure the throttle cable runs above the puck holder on the left side of the frame. I tie mine to the frame in 2 spots but loosely .....

ThrottleCableRoute.jpg


Yes, reroute your clutch cable to the right side of the neck. For this cable however, you want to run it under the puck holder on the frame. Again, I pass it through (the same) 2 loose cable ties on the main frame backbone .....

ClutchCableRoute2.jpg
 
didnt take the tank off. that might be what the issue is? I thought you could just adjust from one side to another without any issues...
 
To do it right, you need to pull the tank and disconnect at least one end of the cable.
 
I have to watch when I replace my tank. Sometimes it will pinch the cable if it is not clear of the holders. It will seem ok 'till I roll the throttle and it stays open.
 
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