Cam chain master link riveting job, is it OK if it's not perfectly centered

[larrynyc]

Hello, I've been up and down the forums about the best way to rivet the cam chain master link, which turned out to be more of a pain in the ass than I had anticipated. I tried many of the methods described, using the Emgo tool from Mike's XS. After failing on the first master link, I bought three additional master links, and I'm on my fourth and last one.

I failed on the first one because the riveter slid off the master link pins and squished the link so much it didn't freely move. The second master link, I screwed up again by over-tightening. The third one, I *also* over-peened and it didn't freely move.

OK so I just did my fourth master link -- my last one. I did this one SUPER carefully ... I think I got it. I only riveted it slightly because I'm afraid of over-squishing the master link pins.

My question is, is this riveting job good enough? (Photos below.) I did it gently just enough so the master link would stay on, but the pins are not overly squished. It freely moves. The pins have "fattened" at the top so the master link plate doesn't come off or wiggle. There's a little bit of a "ridge" that has formed on the surface of the pins. But the ridges on the pins are not perfectly centered.

I really hope this is acceptable because my paid workspace time is running out (I don't have a home with a garage). If I screwed this one up I'll have to overnight some more master links. I personally think it's probably okay, but I'd rather have the opinion of more experienced eyes.

Thanks in advance (and fingers crossed).

 

[NONclow]

I can't tell if the tool is biasing the crown of the pin to one side, or your operation of the riveter, but maybe perform the operation from both sides of the chain trying to equally flatten the pin on each side.

 

[larrynyc]

Thanks for replying. The Emgo riveting tip is rounded, so it keeps sliding a little bit off center.

Any attempts to squish the opposite side results in the already-squished side getting squished even more, risking it becoming too tight. This is what happened the first three times I tried. This forth attempt is the closest I've gotten to the center, *and* with free movement.

Is the chain truly not able to be used like how it's shown?

 

[muks]

Thanks for replying. The Emgo riveting tip is rounded, so it keeps sliding a little bit off center.

Any attempts to squish the opposite side results in the already-squished side getting squished even more, risking it becoming too tight. This is what happened the first three times I tried. This forth attempt is the closest I've gotten to the center, *and* with free movement.

Is the chain truly not able to be used like how it's shown?

I'd use it. I had the same problem when I riveted mine, looked almost identical to yours. I've had no problem yet.

 

[larrynyc]

Muks, thanks -- when you stated "I'd use it," I assume "it" meant the chain and not the riveting tip, right? Just being super-clear before I attempt to re-assemble the engine.

 

[650Skull]

For me the question is has the shaft bent at all, if so then it could be prone to uneven wear.

 

[larrynyc]

Thanks for your response, I'll address your question -- the shafts of the pins aren't bent at all, they're definitely in good shape. Only the tips sticking out show the uneven riveting. Basically, for each pin, one half/side of the tip is more riveted (squished) than the other side. When I riveted the pins, I used a ratchet wrench to turn the tool and *not* the hand lever, and I did it super-slow, only doing a quarter turn at a time before pulling back and releasing the tension to check on it. I then alternated between the pins. It took me a good half hour/45 mins to rivet them, that's how slow I did it. I was scared to mess up the last master link I have.

Since the shafts are intact, do you think I'm ok?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yeah, that's ok. The sideplate isn't going anywhere, you've got it retained. It'll take quite a bit of force to get it off.

The Honda tool I used to use had a chisel-point instead of that rounded pin/punch. Later, I found it easier and faster to back-up the opposite side with a metal block or heavy hammer, then lightly peen over the master link head with my 8 oz ball-peen hammer. The trick was to hold the sideplate firmly in position with my thumbnail while tapping...

 

[5twins]

I know it's a bit late for you but this is the "fix" I found for the tool pin sliding off center. Tap a light "X" cut into the pin heads with a small sharp chisel before applying the tool. It doesn't look like much but I've had good success with the pin staying centered after I started taking this small additional step. Before, I encountered the same problem as you, the pin wanting to slide off to the side as you tighten the tool down.

I finish with a small ball peen to smooth the pin heads out .....

 

[goodgollyjosh]

5twins, I tried your X method. Unfortunately, I had the same master link that the OP has. It is steel and it was too hard. The only way to get an X in there I imagine would be to grind an X. I didn't want to do this since I was assembling the motor and wanted to keep everything clean. Mine turned out the same as the OP and based on previous chain riveting jobs it should hold up fine. 5twins, where did you pick up a master link with copper?Bronze? alloy pins?

 

[5twins]

That's a Tsubaki chain and link, not a D.I.D. It's pretty much all I use now. I did use a D.I.D. on my rebuild nearly 8 years ago and that's where I first encountered the pin slipping problem. I think I just finished it off as best I could by hand peening. I haven't used a D.I.D. chain since.

 

[larrynyc]

Thanks 5twins -- yes I saw those exact photos on another thread. I tried cutting those X's with a dremel but the cuts didn't quite do the job on the rivet link I had -- and the rounded Emgo riveting tip from Mike's XS was still far too big/fat to stay centered.

But I think that's the issue -- it's a DID chain with a DID master link. Now I know what I need to know for next time around -- get a Tsubaki instead of a DID chain! Or, if I stick with DID, I should get a different riveter tool with a chiseled tip instead of a rounded-ball tip.

Thankfully, it seems from the comments here, I can use this chain as it is now. Great! But I will still give the pins a couple taps with a small ball peen hammer just in case.