Cam chain problem

[Brick]

Hi All, I've got a 1981 SH XS, my cam chain adjuster pin pops out and back in when the pistons are rolling over top dead center. I read in a thread something about "it's when the b valve roll over and is normal" but this carn't be normal as the adjuster pin makes a loud knocking noise every revolution and watching the adjustment video the pin does'nt pop out at all.
I'm not sure if the cam chain is too long and this is happening because of the amount of slack in the chain. The tensioner is still holding pressure on the chain but because it is pushed in so far in that when at TDC the load the valves put on the cam straightens the chain on the adjuster and pops the adjustment pin out for the breif period.
With the adjuster removed how much slack should the chain have.

I've counted the links and there are 53.

I just got the bike and the previous owner had just replaced the chain and guides.

Cheers

 

[XSLeo]

when you roll the engine by hand the plunger pops way out as the cam lobes go over center. It's normal.
The noise you hear is the plunger hitting the adjuster, again normal.
Adjust the chain at any point other than where the plunger pops out.
53 links? did you count just the outer side plates? If so that's only half the links. A chain has a link composed of the side plates rollers and such, this is an inner link. The outer link is just the side plates.
So 53 x 2 = 106. Just right.
Just adjust it as the book calls for. The book does it with the engine stopped. Now get the bike warmed up. Now adjust with the bike idling. Adjust so the plunger comes just flush and moves in/out about 1-2 mm.
Leo

 

[5twins]

Does the motor tick like the valves are loose while running? If so, maybe the P.O. left the damping washer off the plunger (#15 or #21). Your '81 motor would probably have the later rubber/metal style but that's not etched in stone. I've found the earlier copper type on later motors ......

 

[Brick]

Thanks guys,
Leo, are you saying once the motor is running the plunger won't keep popping out as when the bike is turned over by hand? I ask this as it was when starting the motor using the starter motor that I could hear the plunger banging away and thought that carn't be right.
Again why in the cam chain adjustment video does the plunger not pop out as mine is doing?
Pritty sure the cam chain is the right length,53 links = 106 pins.

5 TWINS, yes mine is the E type and it is missing the #15 washer. My question is, does this washer stop the plunger from making the ticking noise? and there fore does the plunger pop out when the motor is running constantly every time the motor goes over TDC.
Again thanks for all your help.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the washer will dampen the ticking, and yes, your plunger may be popping out more because it's missing. And yes, if you check it while running, you usually don't get that random long pop like you do when turning by hand. Setting the chain while the engine idles is the preferred and easiest method. I will check it with the motor off on a new motor I'm tuning but always re-check it later with it running.

 

[Brick]

Thanks for your reply 5 Twins. Do you know what the damper washer consists of ?
Could I make one using a felt or rubber washer sandwiched between a couple of stainless steel washers.
I say this because the washer is only $8.00 but the shipping to New Zealand is $42.00, crazy for such a tiny thing.
Cheers

 

[retiredgentleman]

Thanks for your reply 5 Twins. Do you know what the damper washer consists of ?
Could I make one using a felt or rubber washer sandwiched between a couple of stainless steel washers.
I say this because the washer is only $8.00 but the shipping to New Zealand is $42.00, crazy for such a tiny thing.
Cheers

Do not spend crazy money for shipping. When my damper was found to be missing, I just used a regular copper washer. It works great.

 

[5twins]

Yes, any softer than steel washer would probably work. You could probably use a brass one too. To help in your search, the copper washer was 2mm thick, the later rubber/metal one was 3mm thick. The later "E" type tensioner assembly has a longer plunger to allow for the added lock nut on the adjuster screw and the thicker washer. If you use a real thin washer, your plunger may still bob out past the end of the adjuster screw even with it properly set. Not that there's anything wrong with that, just be aware it may happen and why.

 

[Brick]

Thanks for all your help guys, will make up a damper washer. Thin rubber washer sandwiched between two thin copper washers. Will fit it (put motor back in bike) and give it a run to see if it sorts it out. Cheers .

 

[Brick]

Juat as a point of interest to all the members in regards to my problem with the cam chain adjuster plunger rod popping out. I made up a simple damper washer for the cam chain adjuster (fibre washer sandwiched between two copper washers) and refitted the adjuster back into the motor. Turned the motor over by hand and the adjuster plunger does'nt pop out when the motors rolling over TDC anymore. Great problem fixed. Again thanks to everyone for the help.