Cam chain tensioner

[Vonturd]

I have been reading up on adjusting my cam chain adjuster. I see that you guys are saying you want just a small amount of movement with the pin that goes in and out.... But after I adjusted everything to make a small amount of movement with that pin..... My adjustment screw is almost all the way in. Thats not right is it? Heres a picture included.

 

[richardthemotorcycle1]

I think there was a discussion not too long ago and I think the needle should come out 1 or 2 mm, you may have it too tight.

 

[richardthemotorcycle1]

This is the one I have on my bike

 

[weekendrider]

As the cam chain stretch's you will be screwing it in, so yes it may be right to keep it tensioned correctly.

 

[Vonturd]

Yeah I have a type E tensioner I believe. I have a 1980. I'm just worried I have to much tension on it. There was a video on here by a guy named littlebill31 that shows you how to adjust it. When I did he said you want 1 to 2 mm's of play in it. Which when I turn the motor over to see it has about that much. I'm just making sure I was correct in my adjustment.

 

[5twins]

You can't run it the way you have it. There's not enough threads left on the adjuster to put the acorn cover nut back on. Either you FUBAR'd the adjustment all up or your chain is way, way stretched out and in need of replacement. The rear tensioner blade could be all worn out too, with deep grooves worn into it. Likely cause was running with the chain set too tight again and again and again. Consider this like a miniature drive chain. If you run your drive chain adjusted too tight with little to no play in it, it's going to stretch all out and wear out very quickly. Same thing applies here.

 

[Vonturd]

Well shit!! Just remember I got the bike like this. I haven't been messing with it. I have just been going through and doing adjustments like I have been advised.

5twins would you suggest I start by pulling the cam chain adjuster to see its condition, then go from there?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Some entertaining threads, so you may see what awaits you:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36465
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37632
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36807
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37554
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36068
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36827

Also, try an 'advanced search' using the term "tensioner" and member "5Twins" as the poster. He's posted many helpful tips/tricks/pics on these, including plunger buffer info..

 

[5twins]

You really won't be able to see much and assess the condition of the parts we're talking about by just removing the tensioner. The rear tensioner blade and chain are internals parts, not visible from outside the motor. At best, you may get a look at the back side of the tensioner blade but that's not what you need to look at for wear, you need to examine the front side that pushes against the chain .....

Slight grooving on the rubber is normal but if the chain was run too tight all the time, that grooving could be excessive. With the tensioner blade worn away, the adjuster screw would have to be set tighter (farther in) to get proper chain tension. Combine that with a badly stretched chain and you can get what you're seeing - little to no adjuster screw left protruding.

You might want to investigate your adjustment a bit more. Using the "book" method of setting the chain (motor off, rotating by hand) can be difficult and easily screwed up. The easiest and most foolproof method is to set the chain tension while the motor is idling. You can observe the plunger movement and actually see it stop if you get it too tight. You can also loosen it way up to the point where it rattles to demonstrate to yourself what a loose chain can sound like.

If your "while running" adjustment gives the same results (little to no screw showing), as a stopgap measure, you could remove the locknut so the acorn cap nut can be installed. Basically you would be turning your type E adjuster into a type D style, not an ideal solution but could get you through the rest of the season until winter tear down time.

 

[weaselbeak]

I always adjust mine with the motor idling as well, so I can see the plunger pulsing in and out. I've not seen a better way.

 

[Vonturd]

Awesome 5twins. Thank you again. At this point I might just decide to pull the motor and start my rebuild. I wanted to do that anyway, so maybe I might just start sooner. But again thank you for your help.

 

[5twins]

There is a possibility the P.O. mixed and matched tensioner assembly components so it would probably be a good idea to pull the adjuster screw & plunger out. If the guy put the shorter type D plunger in there, that could account for the lack of threads showing .....

 

[Vonturd]

I was curious..... I'm going to fire up my bike today to see about my cam chain tensioner, when I do can I adjust it while its running? Or should I look and see how far that pin is coming out while its running, then turn my bike off then adjust it?

 

[5twins]

Adjust it as the bike is running. If you have just started it and it's not too hot yet, you can usually turn the adjuster with your bare hand. It will get tighter as you turn it in farther and may require a wrench for the last little bit of adjusting. Fold up a paper towel and lay it on top of the motor under the adjuster because a little bit of oil may dribble out as the bike runs (this is normal). Don't worry, it won't be shooting or squirting out, just a slow oozing.

 

[Vonturd]

bad news...... Looks like the cam tensioner needs to be replaced. Well..... what needs to be done needs to be done.
I'll make a video and get your guys opinion, but I'm pretty sure it needs replacement.

I did measure the pin and it is the correct size. So it was not swapped out

 

[weekendrider]

The tensioner? Shirley you mean cam chain?

 

[gggGary]

A front rubber guide that has a worn or fallen out could cause the adjuster to "run out of room" not rare on higher mile XS engines.