Cam chain timing?

PS props for quick response and answering questions, makes it fun to work with you and hopefully get to the bottom of things so you can make "for real" brrm brrm noise!
Ahaha I'm hyped. I'll go home and check the valves on my RH cylinder. It should be on its compression stroke meaning that the rocker arms are loose correct? I feel like I have checked the valves in this position before and I wasen't able to move them (not positive). If this is the case then does that means the RH is on its exhaust stroke?
 
Or that valves are tight. Have you adjusted the valves? Helps to have a helper that can turn crank back and forth while you have a finger on the plug hole to verify the compression stroke. It kind of seems like you have a valve that's not closing on that RH side.
 
"when I kick it over a bunch and check the plugs theyre dry."

"Pulled the plugs and they did not seem wet with fuel. Not really sure what else to do. I put some fuel into the spark plug holes and tried to kick over. Just loud backfire which lead me to believe its timing" (???? huh?)

"I rode the bike up and down the block and it seemed fine"

"I sprayed some starter fluid into the carbs [...] I used the electric start and the bike started right up."


Fuel starvation, incorrect float levels, massive air leak, Just my ten cents.
 
For me, the easiest and most fool-proof way to determine when a cylinder is at TDC on it's compression stroke is to turn the motor over by hand and watch the valve action on the cylinder in question. Watch for the intake valve to open and close. Keep turning and watch for the exhaust valve to open and close. Keep turning until the intake valve opens and closes again. Now start watching the timing marks as you will be approaching TDC on the compression stroke for that cylinder. If the exhaust valve starts opening again, you've gone too far, past the TDC point. It's best not to go backwards but rather to continue on in the direction of rotation for the motor (CCW when viewed from the left side) until after the intake opens and closes again, and is approaching TDC on the compression stroke again.

I'm not all that familiar with rephases but I'm going to assume the original rotor mark and "T" (TDC) mark on the stator will still work for one of the cylinders. For the other, the one that's been rephased, you'll probably need to make new marks. To accurately locate TDC on that changed cylinder, you would need a degree wheel and/or piston stop, but you can roughly locate it using a drinking straw stuck in the spark plug hole, and that may be close enough for doing a valve adjustment.
 
Or that valves are tight. Have you adjusted the valves? Helps to have a helper that can turn crank back and forth while you have a finger on the plug hole to verify the compression stroke. It kind of seems like you have a valve that's not closing on that RH side.
I have adjusted the valves before. Believe it is correct, but I will check it when I get home and report back.
 
Or that valves are tight. Have you adjusted the valves? Helps to have a helper that can turn crank back and forth while you have a finger on the plug hole to verify the compression stroke. It kind of seems like you have a valve that's not closing on that RH side.
Ok so here it is. I had my LH cylinder at TDC (rocker arms loose, checked valve clearance and it was perfect). I rotated the crank 277* CCW until it reached the mark on my stator. The rocker arms were loose, checked valve clearance and they were also good. The picture is of my pamco rotor with the RH cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. Not sure if the valve clearance is suppose to be different on a rephase? I set it to what my manual read. (Intake- 0.10 mm, Exhaust- 0.15 mm).
 

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So like DaveO sez we're back to carb, intake. Importantly those other ares of "maybies" have been eliminated, and that's troubleshooting!
How about you back up a bit and show us shots of the bike?
There she blows! I definately need a re-wire, I'll be getting into that later on. Ok since I believe that my bike is firing on the correct stroke, what could have caused white smoke to come out of the carbs? It's never done that before and it was only the left carb. Could that be the carbs themselves?
 

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sure lots n lots of gas my first guess.

I have my carbs floats set to spec with the appropriate pilot and main jets. I dissasembles the needle and placed it on stock slot I believe 3rd slot, which would lean it. I bench sync'd (eyeball) them before I put them on. Needle jet O-rings were a little worn but they seem to fit in place just fine.
 
Did you verify that the 277° cylinder was at the right TDC for setting the valves? Did you run it through the process I outlined (intake opened/closed, exhaust opened/closed, intake opened/closed again) to make sure?
 
Here's a picture of my carbs. 78 BS38 I believe. I removed the gaskets and rubber parts, soaked one of them using Carb clean and the other pinesol to see results of each (carb cleaner works better in my opinion).
 

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Did you verify that the 277° cylinder was at the right TDC for setting the valves? Did you run it through the process I outlined (intake opened/closed, exhaust opened/closed, intake opened/closed again) to make sure?
I just walked the motor CCW visually inspected the valves opening and closing and checked physically if the rocker arms were loose on their compression stroke and tight on their exhaust stroke.
 
Yes hottish coffee cup, 2 minutes in a microwave is plenty. Bubbles = fail, real common with brass floats my average is about 50% + fail.
 
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