camshaft backwards? but still running...

doctavee

XS650 enthiusiest
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Sacramento, Ca transplant from New Bedford, Ma
i have an xs650 that i rebuilt the engine on and am trying to retake my steps on what i did. the bike runs and power band seems correct but the pressure out of the right exhaust seems stronger than the left. could i have possibly installed my cam backwards? or is this impossible? i have a boyer electronic ignition, hhb pma.
 
You can install the cam backwards. The cam lobes are the same, look at the cam lobes from the left and right.
The notch on the cam by the sprocket will be on the right instead of the left. The dot by the sprocket teeth will be on the wrong side too.
On a points ignition this will put the points on the right and advancer on the left. This will spin the advancer backwards and it may not advance right. This might give timing issues.
On a TCI it will run fine.
On a Boyer if you install the ignition on the left side as it should be it will run fine.
On all this if your exhaust is hot on one side and not the other I doubt the cam or ignition are the problem. This is most often a carb problem. On stock carbs, on the cold side the idle circuits are probably plugged, the carb sync may be off.
From what I know of after market carbs the same applies.
If you have stock carbs read www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf This is a carb guide for stock carbs. It describes how to tear down, clean, inspect your carbs. Once this is done you can determine if anything needs to be replaced.
Once you replace the needed parts the guide help you reassemble and adjust the carbs.
Leo
 
Easiest way to see if your cam is backward is look at the right side of the engine and see if the cam has a threaded end, if it's on the left then the cam is backward, wouldn't like to say how it would run though if you look at the cam lobes they are shaped with a smooth rise and a sharper fall so if it was in backward you would have a sharp rise, smooth fall.
 
Doc, I suggest that you start your inspection with inspection of timing on both points sets if you're running breaker point ignition. If that's OK, check your valve clearances with a dial indicator, to be sure you're not reading the edges of cupped valve stems instead of the actual contact points. Only after that, check carb synch, and if that checks out, run a leakdown test.
 
Have you balanced your carbs? build/buy a manometer (sp?) and remote tank and fine tune your carbs. idle mixture while the tank is off and balance your carbs so both cylinders are doing equal work. I bet it won't vibrate as much afterward.
 
i am running mikuni vm carbs and they are synced also I am runnin a boyer electronic ignition. i took it for a spin the other night and it was running pretty good, maybe just need new plugs and some fine tuning of the carbs, thanks for your input gents!
 
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