We’ll move away! - I don’t know how to do that, or even if I can.
Seems above my pay grade.
Seems above my pay grade.
My second bike was 74 750-4, burnt orange color. Great engine. It could really cruise. Unfortunately I got into a high speed wobble on it. I survived, but lost my nerve to ride it. Sold it and gave up riding for a while. In hindsight, I think a bit of maintenance on the suspension would have saved me from that crapping -your -pants scare. Look forward to seeing more posts.
Adjust the valves
having owned 4 CB750, my first multi was a 1973 K3 that bike has very fond memory's of myself and girlfriend spending times down by the river ummm picking flowers sorry got nostalgic looking at your bike it's an extremely good score and very clean I will follow how this goes, part of the reason the early Ks went quicker than the later ones was the cam shaft, they made later ones milder possibly emission control, some one out there can put more light on that.
You’re right , those side covers are cool, I never noticed them before! And you carburetors came out great too!
Nice work; all looking good.It’s the little things that count haha.
A very slow build.
Got a little time in today while the kid was taking his nap. (Was on daddy duty all day today - wife was gone).
My master cylinder was very faded with just remnants of the black anodize finish left, mainly where the sun was blocked.
I wanted it to blend with my original switches as the did at one point have the same finish. My switches show a little age but once I rebuilt em they function great and look good for 50 years old. I also didn’t really want it to look like new painted black reservoir next to original switches.
Got out the colors and made a black/chrome dark grey fade. Has some very micro sparkle to give that chrome/anodized effect and a good color shift from sun to shade like the switches.
- hot soak in the ultrasonic cleaner, light scuff, adhesion promoter, 2k clear, color layers, and some more clear.
Sprayed the colors in the wet clear to get em to have a better “cured” durability. Probably not spec but I’ve done it before and it gives a tough finish.
Wanted a finish that would hold up to brake fluid.
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Then I rebuilt the master once cured.
Also got my fork flasher cleaned up and mounted. Again, the little victories.
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Again, the little victories.
Its all the little details that your eyes pick up on, that make the overall appearance look killer! Great job on the repainted switchgear and master cylinder. Just a little tip, I don’t know what your plastics look like on your tail light and turn signals, but I found that a headlight restoration kit can polish those parts up to look like new!
Started pulling my gauges apart. There is a lot of support for these machines and pretty much every part short of the internal mechanisms is available from cb750faces.com - not necessarily cheap, but available.
My internals work and really just need a good cleaning and some grease.
Faces will be replaced as well as the faded jewels, the disintegrated light cups (those white things), the rubber for the lights and the pvc wrap.
Unfortunately, it seems the easiest way of replacing the rubber for the lights means clipping all the wires, sliding on the new ones and then soldering them back together. The other option is Undoing the crimps and solder at the light housing which seems like a real pain. We’ll see…
They do make new harnesses but another few hundred bucks and we’ll mine are fine except for the rubber and wrap.
Got all my internals cleaned and chrome polished up nicely.
As suggested by mailman. A cheap headlight kit did wonders for my gauge “glass”. - trying to clamp my buckets down and hit em with a drill seemed like asking for trouble. - mounted it in my drill press and just held the bucked. Worked like a charm. Sanded em wet, 500,800,3000 and a polish.
There are still a few very very small imperfections but it beat spending a few hundred bucks on new housings.
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