chain width

pahako

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I was wondering if there would be any clearance issues if I switched to an x or o ring chain from a standard chain. I heard they may be up to 1/4 inch wider. I was specifically looking at an RK brand xsoz1. The bike is an 81 special with 18/32 gearing, but I am going to 18/30 when I switch chains.

Thanks
 
There may be since you have an 18T front sprocket, another check mark in the "Negative" column for those things.
 
I was wondering if there would be any clearance issues if I switched to an x or o ring chain from a standard chain. I heard they may be up to 1/4 inch wider. I was specifically looking at an RK brand xsoz1. The bike is an 81 special with 18/32 gearing, but I am going to 18/30 when I switch chains.
Thanks

Hi pahako,
1/4" wider ain't likely but Heavy Duty and sealed chain does have bigger thicker sideplates than standard chain.
Bigger & thicker enough that the sideplates will gnaw grooves in the shifter shaft if you run an 18T sprocket.
 
Maybe going to a 520 chain would help, at least with sideways clearance issues. A 520 chain is plenty strong for any XS, at least unless it is turbo/supercharged or has a nitrous system.
 
Any sealed chain 520 and up is far stronger than the standard chain. Now, who makes good quality (not Chinese stamped shit) steel rear sprockets for a 520? Seems they are always aluminum when I find 520s.
 
Any sealed chain 520 and up is far stronger than the standard chain. Now, who makes good quality (not Chinese stamped shit) steel rear sprockets for a 520? Seems they are always aluminum when I find 520s.

Hi ace,
it ain't the seals that add strength, it's the heavy duty side plates they need to use to fit the seals in.
And I'd have thought that anyone so eager to save weight that they'd switch to #520 chain would be happy to find aluminum rear sprockets.
BTW, one time the 32T steel rear I e-bought turned out to be an aluminum one.
It didn't seem to wear any faster than the steel ones.
 
I'm not interested in a 520 conversion myself, but I am thinking of an X ring chain. It would probably out-live the bike! (That's a joke) I am about to change my SV chain and sprockets after 23K miles with an X ring and Sunstar sprockets.

Also, very aware of why the sealed chains are stronger. Thanks.
 
I'm using a 17 tooth sproket 530 X-Ring Chain, not running yet but in the garage not having any issues yet.
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I went with a standard chain because of the 18 tooth sprocket, and am using 18/32 gearing. I love this gearing, but may switch to 17/30 when I have to get a new chain. Great looking build so far J.T.
 
So is there anyone out there that uses a sealed chain with an 18 tooth sprocket (530)?

Hi pahako,
I tried it one time.
Sequence:-
Swapped from 17/34 to 18/32 with stock #530 chain. Had to remove the inner chain guard.
Upgraded to #530 O-ring chain. Carefully checked between chain sideplates and shifter shaft, still had 0.020" clearance.
Ran a 100 miles or so and checked.
Found gnaw marks on the shifter shaft. Seems that the chain lifts off the sprocket while running so the clearance turns into an interference.
Swapped back to the 17T sprocket.
 
Hi pahako,
I tried it one time.
Sequence:-
Swapped from 17/34 to 18/32 with stock #530 chain. Had to remove the inner chain guard.
Upgraded to #530 O-ring chain. Carefully checked between chain sideplates and shifter shaft, still had 0.020" clearance.
Ran a 100 miles or so and checked.
Found gnaw marks on the shifter shaft. Seems that the chain lifts off the sprocket while running so the clearance turns into an interference.
Swapped back to the 17T sprocket.

Good to know. I haven't actually looked at mine since I've been using it. Probably should. Thanks.
 
Swapping to a 520 chain will not add clearance. The sprockets are just thinner, so no gain.
Some front sprockets come with the center section 3/8 wide with it 1/4 wide at the teeth. The thicker center section is all done on one side. The rear is just 1/4 inch thick all the way from the center out. The rear just bolts on. The front, the thicker part is all on one side. You install this with the raised part out. This lines up the front to the rear.
You can put the front on the wrong way but it won't line up with the rear. You need to add a 1/8 inch thick shim between the rear sprocket and hub.
On front sprockets that come 1/4 inch thick all the way from center out can be shimmed out, like the rear.
This shimming gives you 1/8 inch extra clearance.
Leo
 
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