charging circuit or battery ?

[nb1914]

Thanks , i think as i can only find a B circuit regulator i.e. at least i know for certain what it is i will order that one i posted. I can see on it a metal track from one of the mounting holes so i guess a ground safety. I don't want to fry this stator for certain as it was hard to find this one. Just for my sanity if a find that my combined reg/rec is type B and looking at some wiring diags would the below look correct ( in this case most info i can find suggests the green wire is ground )

 

[nb1914]

i think i finally have it, just ordered the regulator type B and the rectifier i posted earlier. So i will go back to using the brass screws for the inner brush ( grounding it to case ) and then as i see it i will have the below, just hoping its easy to identify X and Y on the regulator i.e. switched power in and brush power out.

 

[XSLeo]

The first diagram looks like the reg/rec is from a PMA system. I think Honda uses a 7 wire reg/rec on their PMA systems. I would not try using that one.
Your second diagram Looks like the right sety up.
Leo

 

[nb1914]

parts are in the post for the second separate setup, i will let you all know how it goes.

 

[nb1914]

regulator arrived today…………no diagram, it looks to have a general 3 pin arrangement for harnesses compared to other similar regulators i can find. From what i can find the below are the pin outs, part numbers are VRB191 DF i believe once i go back to the brass screws will connect to the outer brush.

 

[nb1914]

Quick update and thanks to all you guys, new stator , brass screws re-installed / separate B circuit regulator and separate rectifier. All looks good with the bike on idle i see approx 12.8V if i rev it i get over 14V ( not sure if this is a bit high but i will see how it goes) the bike also taught me another lesson………………….dont run it with the left crankcase cover off , it blew the clutch pin and ball out followed by about 1/3 of the oil. Running well now and charging great, just need to install the reg/rec properly as the rectifier does indeed get very hot.

 

[Paul Sutton]

I am glad you got everything sorted. Regarding the voltage, the electronic regulator of my XS SH controls at 14.3 Volts. Other people have reported 13.8 - 14.7 Volts on their machines.

To charge the battery in a reasonable time requires between 14.2 V to 14.5 V as measured across the battery. As the voltage goes beyond 14.5 Volts there is an increased risk of water and acid loss from the cells due to electrolysis.

With your engine running put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. You will get some value depending on how good your electrical contacts are on the loom. Rev the engine up and the voltage will rise to a maximum of 14.2 -14.5 Volts and not get any higher. The peak on mine occurs at about 2500 rpm and will not get any higher even at 4000 rpm.

Note: The connections in the wiring, if the contacts are a bit dirty/oxidised, can result in voltage drops. With the engine off and ignition on the voltage across the battery and that across the two rotor brushes should be within half a volt of each other. This will ensure that the battery gets a good charging voltage around town when you are using lower revs.

The two pistons move up and down at the same time. The effect of this is to pressurise the crank case and gear box. While the engine is running oil will come out if you open any of the fittings. With the ignition off and the oil filler cap removed kick the engine over and you will see oil shoot out also. When the oil seal around the clutch push rod wears out you will also see oils leaking.

 

[5twins]

When mounting your rectifier to it's heat sink, use some thermal paste between the 2 to insure good contact and heat transfer. You can see some here squeezing out from between the 2 parts on mine .....

 

[nb1914]

i might mount the rectifier onto the battery box after removing some paint so i get metal to metal with thermal paste and use that as a large heat sink. I was also thinking about using metal epoxy ?

 

[5twins]

Well, I'm always open to new ideas but epoxying the rectifier to the side of your battery box doesn't strike me as a very good one, lol. The original hung off the bottom of the battery box which gave it some decent air flow. That's where I mount my replacements as well.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I agree with 5twins. It would be better to use a proper heat sink instead of the battery box itself. Old computers may have a heat sink you can use. I use a single long bolt to connect from the bottom of the battery box to my recifier with its heat sink.

 

[weekendrider]

Old computers may have a heat sink

An excellent source for them.