Cheap XS Battery?

The little battery I use will not turn the starter. Nope, ain't gonna happen. If you are only going kick you need to remember that stalling the bike without an electric starter is a pain.
 
I just went to Batteries Plus yesterday and bought a 12v 1.3ah battery that is really small. If you are running batteryless then this will work for you. Just worked on my setup today.

Cost me $15 and there are a few in your area
 
SpoogeMCMM said:
do i gotta do the PMA conversion to run that?
Click to expand...

Nope. I am running Stock Rotor/Stator, Kick only, boyer brandsen digital ignition, headlight, taillight, brake switches. That's it. I did change my brushes though. Figured it was worth the $4 or whatever the cost was.
 
I would suggest it. Because your current alternator doesn't permanently charge and I would be concerned with how long that battery would last. Pete, Riggs or Hugh will pop in here if it's at the top and probably chip in and give a definitive answer.
 
littlebill31 said:
No, but you have to remember that you have to have kick only and lights, or the key left on, will drain it in a couple minutes.
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Yes. Forgot to mention I wired the bike so that the all of the lights are on a separate switch. Meaning, I can leave them off while kicking it. Then turn them on after the bike is on.
 
i have been seeing alot about changing the ignition and i have been thinking about it, but i think that i should just keep everything as stock as i can with the exception of the wiring and cosmetic stuff like the tank and hardtail. i gotta get the damn think put back together and get it to run first, my buddy just started ripping it down a bit, so i said screw it, ill do the hardtail and the stuff i have the parts for and treat it like a basket case and build it from ground up. is there a place to get a different ignition that is economical and inexpensive if i do decide to go that route lateR?
 
BigJimmyW13 said:
Exactly, and without a PMA you will be kicking it for awhile to get it to start if at all.
Click to expand...

cant i just hook up my lights to a diff kill switch? so that once started i can flip the switch to make lights and stuff work i never leave my key on when not running, but i also havent had a bike with a different batt and no starter before, ive had a gsxr and a cb750 that i never kicked, and a katana, and a few viragos... so this is a whole new monster i gotta figure out
 
SpoogeMCMM said:
i have been seeing alot about changing the ignition and i have been thinking about it, but i think that i should just keep everything as stock as i can with the exception of the wiring and cosmetic stuff like the tank and hardtail. i gotta get the damn think put back together and get it to run first, my buddy just started ripping it down a bit, so i said screw it, ill do the hardtail and the stuff i have the parts for and treat it like a basket case and build it from ground up. is there a place to get a different ignition that is economical and inexpensive if i do decide to go that route lateR?
Click to expand...

The ignition has nothing (per se) to do with the PMA. The PMA is a custom charging system.

The Pamco is what I would suggest. Guessing that you have points already you would just need the ignition unit. $98 shipped.

http://www.Yamahaxs650.com
 
alfredo said:
Yes. Forgot to mention I wired the bike so that the all of the lights are on a separate switch. Meaning, I can leave them off while kicking it. Then turn them on after the bike is on.
Click to expand...

i would like to see the wiring diagram you used, if you have one lying around. i bought the simple kit from TCBros, and was going to figure out a way to wire the lights to a toggle on my fake oil tank think that im going to use to hide wiring. or something like that, still havent decided how im going to work that. im running the least amount of wiring i possibly can. whatever it takes to keep the motor running, key switch, head light, tail light and brake light. thats it, no turns or idiot lights...
 
If the lights are on a separate switch it will not draw from your battery when trying to start it. I have it all hooked up all the time. As soon as I turn the key everything is on and I have no problem with a 12v 7ah. Mines a 1-2 kicker. That is the reason for the amp hour(ah). A .08ah will drain dead in 7 minutes. A 7ah has more life. Stock is 14ah.
 
okay. so what im hearing basically is, if i wanna wire lights seperate, its a good idea, and its safer regardless incase im dumb and leave them on to get a 12v 7ah battery just to cover my ass. does that sound right?
 
im going to use a sweet chrome headlight that my buddy gave me off his chopper with a mounting bracket on the bottom of it that is the kind you normally see on springers. so i dont really wanna have to mess up the thing with drilling into it or anything
 
Photo05151426-vi.jpg

heres mine. 25$ at a feed store. I'm kick only, headlight, blinkers, stock '80 ignition(although HO coil)
I just scored a troyboilt electric weedwhacker at a garage sale, and it has the same battery, but its black, and says worx on it.
 
I have one that I'm not using. I haven't checked it's charge for a while. I'll check it tomorrow if it's good you can have it for the shipping.
 
apox said:
Having a pma would help in the case of a smaller battery but keeping electric start.. Personally, keep it kick only :p way cooler
Click to expand...
i agree PMA conversion is awesome especially with the pamco PMA+PAMCO= effortless starts.
 

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