Cheaper More Common Alternative to Yamabond

Could some of the problem have been from applying the gasket dry?

There was little to no oil on the crankcase bottom, and no oil on the sump plate, so the new gasket may have been installed bone dry.
 
Before I install a sump gasket, I coat both sides with gasgacinch and let dry.

Then I run a razor blade over the sealing surface of the sump and the bottom of the case to remove any remnant sealant/gasket and wipe clean with denatured alcohol, making sure no oil or dirt is left on the surfaces.

Then I put a thin layer of gasgacinch on the case surface and apply the gasket; don't put any gasgacinch on the sump sealing surface.

Then I torque down the sump to spec. Never had a leak and since the sump doesn't require much torque, it's easy to pull off down the line.
 
Could some of the problem have been from applying the gasket dry?

There was little to no oil on the crankcase bottom, and no oil on the sump plate, so the new gasket may have been installed bone dry.

I install my gaskets dry................never any leaks. The sump surface and the sump plate surface must both be super clean.
 
Older Moto Guzzis' had a sump plate that was about a square foot in area, that had to be removed to get to the oil filter. Best way to seal that sump was just like Retiredgentleman says. Dry! But I was taught a twist. Smear a lite coat of grease on both side of the gasket and install like normal. Never leaked a drop, and came off easy as pie. You could use the same gasket for 5 or 6 oil filter changes. I haven't tried this on my XS yet because quite frankly I forgot and used loctite 518 with no gasket. That has worked out quite well too. My only oil issue is the drain plug itself. Copper gasket keeps weeping oil.
 
I rebuilt my 305 Super Hawk back in 1969. i wondered about installing new paper gaskets dry or smearing with grease. Honda said to install gaskets dry as oil leaking would swell the dry gasket and stop the leak. Made sense so that's the way i install paper gaskets unless I get specific instructions otherwise.

Tom
 
I rebuilt my 305 Super Hawk back in 1969. i wondered about installing new paper gaskets dry or smearing with grease. Honda said to install gaskets dry as oil leaking would swell the dry gasket and stop the leak. Made sense so that's the way i install paper gaskets unless I get specific instructions otherwise.

Tom

Off topic, but the 305 super hawk scared the shit :eek: out of me when I was 17. Silly little "bars", too much motor too little geometry.

Glenn
 
I bought Threebond 1104 and planned to use it this Saturday for my bottom end reassembly. I'm getting concerned now that the stuff may setup to fast. It will also be 80 degrees F or so and that will make it dry faster.

I found two setup times one says assemble within 15 minutes and the other 2 to 4 minutes. No way can I do a neat uniform coat on the bottom cases in 2 to 4 minutes. Maybe Hylomar will be the way to go. I've used it on car motors in the past, maybe on my beemer too.

15 minutes:

http://webaruhaz.hskft.hu/uploaded/518_1104.pdf

2 to 4 minutes:

http://www.nzgaskets.co.nz/pdf/Threebond/1104.pdf

Your experience?
 
What the hell are all of you talking about? retiredgentleman is correct, you do NOT need anything but a dry gasket to seal these surfaces! Clean the surfaces properly, use a dry gasket. If you're leaking, you did something wrong, but it's not from lack of liquid gasket.
 
This is for the bottom cases. I should have been clearer. There is no paper gasket used for this joint.

I'm also going with no base gasket, just between the piston barrels and the cases to raise the compression a bit.
 
I just oil my paper gaskets. Been doing so for many years and like the results. The part removes easily in the future with no sticking or tearing of the gasket. On my sump plate, I get 5 or 6 changes before the gasket is squished out enough and sweating oil that it needs replacement. I recently pulled the advance and points housings to install the stainless rocker arm shaft plugs. They had been on there for about 5 years since my top end rebuild and installed with oiled gaskets. They came right off with no sticking and no gasket damage. In fact, I just spread some fresh oil on them with a Q-tip and re-used them. Sealed up fine again.
 
One thing you might check if you get leaks is the area around the bolt holes. If they get over tightened the threads start to pull out. This makes a ridge around the bolt holes. This ridge keeps the cover from setting fully on the case.
A sharp putty knife can get this ridge off. A large drill bit turnmed by hand can. Just be careful.
Leo
 
If it's realy is necessary go for the Hylomar Universal Blue, since i discovered it in the late 80's i have never looked back.
RR have used this at least from the Merlin to present, with no gaskets. So if it's good enough for a bomberplane..........
 
Thanks Norwegian,

Yes, this is a NO GASKET situation that I don't want to be revisiting. Like anyone would look forward to splitting the cases again!

I bought a tube of the Threebond 1104 and noted on the tube that it says to bond in a minute after application so I pulled the product sheets and found that this Threebond really sets up fast. There is just too much irregular surface area between the crankcase surfaces to apply a good thin uniform coat in a couple of minutes and get it bolted back together. Maybe others have found that there is actually more time before it sets up? Searching this forum there were at least a few people noting the quick setup time.
 
For cases, go with ye olde Gaskecinch (spelling?). The kind that come in an old looking can, sometimes with a pin up girl on it, with a brush applicator.
 
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