Checking in from Northern Virginia

I realize that time is on your side because you await the title papers and do not wish to invest money in something that may not be yours for the riding. I suggest you be patient and let the penetrating fluid work. May take a week or two. Your engine looks pretty well sealed up but may be worth taking the alternator cover off to check that the rotor isn't seized up with rust, this would make kicking over very difficult.

My first XS was rebuilt outdoors like you will be doing. Just make sure that you can keep things sealed up against the rain. I made the mistake of putting a nice shiny set of oil covered gears in a cardboard box thinking the oil would protect them. When I checked a week or so later the rust was just getting started. I should have sealed them in plastic bags. Also, get some foam pads to lay on the ground, they will make it much more comfortable for working on the bike, most of which will require you to kneel. A small stool would also be good for giving your knees a rest sometimes.

I currently have an 81 SH with the rear drum brake. It was jammed on hard due to the brake shoes having delaminated from age.

Good Luck and Enjoy.

Thank you Paul for the advice. My knees are not happy with me on good days, thus I should not tick them off any more.
I will check the alternator too as that should not cost me anything but time.
My back brakes work good for now, the front cable in broken somewhere in line thus no front brake. I plan to replace all brake parts at the appropriate time anyway just to be safe.
 
On the front brake Master cylinder you will probably find it looks like mud in side. Just clean it all out and the rubber seals and piston will most likely be usable still. To get the master piston out there is a circlip to get out but it is situated quite deep so will require patients. That reservoir on top will come off with difficulty and has a square cross-section o-ring (square-ring??) that needs to be treated very carefully because I do not think they are available now. There will be loads of crusty crap to clean out but not much money to spend except on new break-lines - but these are cheap from Bang Good.

If you want some fun for free then take the valve covers off as suggested in earlier posts by Kshansen and gggGary, loosen the tappet/lash screws right off and all 4 valves should appear closed. If not one may be stuck open and stopping the engine from rotating. This will all cost you about 20 minutes.
 
It is free! The engine will now kick overafter a few days of the 50/50 treatment. I am quite happy now.
A new question, when I pull the clutch in with the bike in gear and kick it, the bike moves forward. My first guess is the clutch is not working. It doesn't do this in neutral. Am I on the right track at least?
 
It is free! The engine will now kick overafter a few days of the 50/50 treatment. I am quite happy now.
A new question, when I pull the clutch in with the bike in gear and kick it, the bike moves forward. My first guess is the clutch is not working. It doesn't do this in neutral. Am I on the right track at least?

Clutch plates are stuck together, happens when they sit for long periods of time. All the best on bringing her back, you will learn some new curse words along the way.....
 
You can't kickstart while it's in gear!

The kickstarter uses the transmission's 1st gearset to drive the clutch. You could completely remove the clutch assembly, and, if in gear, kickstarting WILL rotate the drive sprocket.

Do all your kickstarting while in neutral, ONLY....
Thanks for thatvtidbit if information. The kicker does not springback yet but it does move now.
 
After a bike sits for a long time the clutch plate stick together and stay that way even when you pull the clutch in. You can remove the right hand engine cover and disassemble the clutch to free everything up. However, I started my bike on the center stand then put it in 1st. With the clutch pulled in I then used the back brake/engine to cause the plates to separate by slowly letting out the clutch. Not long after that I dismantled the clutch anyway to check all was well. Because your bike has seen a lot of weather you want to dismantle the clutch to check that there is no water damage (rust) on the metal plates. This will only cost you time hopefully. The right side gasket, as with most gaskets on the XS, can be used several times as long as you are careful and do not tear it.
 
It is free! The engine will now kick over after a few days of the 50/50 treatment. I am quite happy now.

Minions cheering.gif
 
More good news, I got the clutch to free up last night. I followed advice here by placing the bike in each of the gears and rocking it back and forth. I started in first and after it loosened up, the rest were easy to move.

I am getting more and more excited about starting the restoration!
 
It looks like it is cheaper to buy a new ignition switch, seat lock and gas cap than it is to have a locksmith make a single ignition key. J&P Cycles have several ignitions to chose from, they do not have a seat lock though any advice there?
 
Cheapest option, for me anyway, would be changing or re-keying the lock cylinders so they all match. Did you get a key with the bike, and if so, which locks does it fit into? Yamaha used several different key blank styles that offset differently. Not every blank will fit into every lock. If your key will physically insert into the lock then you can re-key that lock to work with that key.
 
Yes, I can see from the pics that the gas cap and seat lock assembly probably need replacing anyway due to rust. But the locks in them are probably still good, at least for parts anyway. Probably other useful parts in them as well.
 
It looks like it is cheaper to buy a new ignition switch, seat lock and gas cap than it is to have a locksmith make a single ignition key. J&P Cycles have several ignitions to chose from, they do not have a seat lock though any advice there?

Did you get any key with the bike? If not there should be a number on the lock that I believe someone here has a code book that can be used to get new keys made.

I would have to check but I might have at least the ignition switch and seat latch off my 1981 bike I rode to work for many years. I could check on those tomorrow as it's too hot out in the barn to check today!
 
I have NO keys with this bike at all. I called around to locksmiths in my area and was quoted between $50 and $65 per lock to cut new keys. Too much for now especially if new ignitions and gas caps are so inexpensive on line compared to the locksmith. And like 5Twins says, they probably need to be replaced anyhow.

Thanks @kshansen for checking on that as of yet I have not found a seat latch online.
 
Gas cap and seat lock, yes, replacement may be your best option, but I wouldn't throw the towel in just yet on the ignition switch. Yamaha used to stamp the key number right on the lock face but that changed around 1980. It was moved inside or in the case of the ignition switch, to a sticker on the bottom of it .....

edwSjrp.jpg


If you can find that number and you're a lucky guy, this eBay seller may just have an old original pre-cut key for you .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precut-Vin...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

If not, any key starting with the same letter will physically fit in your ignition switch and the lock cylinder could be re-keyed to match it.
 
Gas cap and seat lock, yes, replacement may be your best option, but I wouldn't throw the towel in just yet on the ignition switch. Yamaha used to stamp the key number right on the lock face but that changed around 1980. It was moved inside or in the case of the ignition switch, to a sticker on the bottom of it .....

edwSjrp.jpg


If you can find that number and you're a lucky guy, this eBay seller may just have an old original pre-cut key for you .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precut-Vintage-Yamaha-Motorcycle-Key-1100-4800-A-F/170663950511?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

If not, any key starting with the same letter will physically fit in your ignition switch and the lock cylinder could be re-keyed to match it.
My sticker is gone so that isn't an option. I saw this picture in another post and got excited till I went out and looked.
 
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