Clear Coating?

[InfamousXS]

Hey Guys,

Well I set a finish date for the bike as late April meaning I have just shy of two months. I will be starting a build thread this week some point to get some finishing ideas and some motivation.

I started painting a ton of pieces today and did it the best way I knew how. I sanded and cleaned all the parts with acetone first. Sprayed primer on everything in light coats for two or three coats and am letting everything dry in our stove room overnight. I have painted a handful of small parts already with VHT brake caliper paint already and that says to let dry for seven days so it can cure. My question - should I or have any of you clear coated after using the caliper paint? I know some of you have used caliper paint before. Also, I primed my wheels today but am not sure what to paint those with too. Caliper paint? Is there an advantage or disadvantage to using caliper paint? Everything looks great with the Rustoleum auto primer I have laid. Brake caliper paint came out well too. Small parts like the motor mounts, brakes, triple tree and such I was happy to just spray with caliper paint but not sure what to spray for the wheels, frame, tank, etc. Thanks for the help guys, let get this build rolling!

 

[ember]

Personally, I would go with an automotive urethane 2k paint (base/clear). If you don't have an air compressor, paint gun and all the equipment, you can have the colors added to spray cans. Many paint stores can do this or you can purchase online.

I would also use a quality automotive primer such as epoxy.

I used rattle can paint on the frame and other small parts and regret it. Scratches too easily. Will probably strip it down at some point and put 2k paint on it for durability.

Rattle can clears are usually not very durable. Will make it "shiny" but not durable. Usually you do not want to mix urethane paints with rattle can enamel since the two can/will react with one another. The chemicals in the urethane tend to lift (wrinkle) the enamel paint if applied too heavy in the first couple coats.

I would try SprayMax 2 Part Urethane Clear Coat
http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3680061&cat=610

This is a 2k paint and you would want to wear a respirator.

Caliper paint does need to be baked at a certain temp for durability. It is up to you if you think it needs clear. If it is already glossy, no need for clear. If it is flat or satin, you can decide if it needs more sheen. I personally like satin for the frame. Gloss for the tank/fender and rims.

 

[InfamousXS]

So you're suggesting that I use the 2k clear, which I have seen a lot of guys talk about on the forum, over the paint I already sprayed? Or should I sand everything down again and spray a quality auto paint? I have the full gun setup but it is a cheap setup and I haven't used it much before so I didn't want to use it for this and have it come out poorly.

And you said the rattle can clear is not very good but is that 2k clear in the can you posted good?

 

[ember]

If you do not wish to sand everything, you can spray the 2k clear I posted over it, but do so in very thin/light layers for the first few layers. If you put it on too heavy, it may peel the enamel base.

The caliper paint should hold up, but may scratch much easier without a quality clear over it. The clear in the can is decent stuff. You won't get a perfect finish with anything aerosol, but with a little patience you can get it to go on smoothly.

If this will be a daily, I wouldn't worry too much. If you want it to go to shows, I would redo with 2k or even powdercoat.

 

[InfamousXS]

It is def going to be a daily driver and I want it to look nice but I often have to remind myself that it isn't going to be a show bike and I don't have the skill or means to make a show quality bike.

I figured the small parts (handlebar risers, motor mounts, headlight mount) I wouldn't be too picky but I def want the paint on the bike items to last. Would you suggest powder coating? I hear it is far better but is hard to repair. I will leave everything I have painted so far alone and let the caliper paint cure for the seven days and see how it looks after.

I think I am gonna hold off on painting anything else with the caliper paint and look into a better option. Should I also go with an epoxy primer if I use the 2k urethane paint?

Sorry to bombard you with questions but I have no experience in quality painting.

 

[ember]

Do you happen to have an auto paint shop in your area? If so, they can point you in the right direction. You want to use compatible brands/activators with a 2k paint. You need the correct reducer(s) for the air temperature, and you will have to decide on if you want gloss or satin finish since the clears will dictate this.

My piece of advice. Wait until you are completely done with your build before painting. Get everything fabricated and fitted first. After you are sure you will not be changing something, then I would paint or powdercoat. Powder is strong, but can chip. But you can always go an extra step- Have it powder coated, then 2k paint over it. This way you have durability and a way to fill and repair chips.

You can also get a single stage urethane as well from auto paint stores. This way you don't have to spray clear. Would probably be your best bet for the frame and other parts and cheaper. For parts such as the tank and fender, I would do a 2k 2 part base/clear.

Do this once the correct way and you won't have to worry about the paint holding up down the road. Build it, then do a final tear down for paint.

If you want more things to research, here is a good site on painting-
http://www.kustomkulturelounge.com/forum/index.php

 

[InfamousXS]

I am needing to mount the tire in order to mount the fender where I want it so I am painting everything now and then frame last. Fabrication aside from the fender and a few small blinker tabs is complete.

I talked to a buddy of mine yesterday who is big into building track cars and knows a fair bit about paint too. He has a local connection to an autobody shop so I will go talk to them and get a quote to have the big stuff done by them. To be honest, I just thought it would be easier to paint on my own but boy was I wrong

Thanks for all the help Ember

 

[ember]

Paint is a little overwhelming at first, but it is not too complicated once you know what you are getting into. Biggest headache for us garage builders/painters is keeping dust and bugs out of the paint while spraying. That and learning how to properly set up your gun.
A professional booth is always the best route, and many body/paint shops will rent the booth if you ever wanted to. Or you can make a makeshift booth out of plastic in a garage.

Doesn't matter how clean you make it in the garage, something will always find its way into the paint.

I just did my first 2k paint not too long ago myself. The paint is pricey. And a quality paint job is all in the prep work. Not really the paint itself. You can layer clear over a 2k base and get rid of a lot of oopsies. Biggest problem most have is orange peel, but with clear coat, you can color sand it out.

That forum I linked has a lot of helpful information if you do decide to tackle a paint job in the future.