Clutch not fully disengaging with lever pulled in.

[LPYYZ]

I've seen more than a few posts about similar clutch problems.

The clutch has been adjusted at both the engine case and the bar lever before each ride and operates normally with just over 1/8" free play.

After riding the bike for a while when I come to a stop in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in the bike wants to creep forward. It's also very hard or impossible to shift into neutral or out of first at all until the bike is moving again.

The free play at the lever is now roughly 1/2" at that point and neither the lever adjustment or the engine case adjustment has been moved during the ride. I now have to tighten the adjustment at the clutch lever in order to fully disengage the clutch and have proper operation. Once I do this I'm finding that the clutch doesn't engage until the lever is almost fully released which makes me wonder if the clutch isn't fully engaging at this point either. There seems to be no happy balance once the bike is hot. Either the adjustment is too lose and the bike creeps forward with the lever pulled in or the clutch doesn't engage until the lever is almost all the way released.

Once the bike sits for a while and cools down everything returns to normal and the same series of events happens on the next ride.

I have a new thrust needle bearing at home waiting to be installed. While I have the clutch apart to install that I will check the plates for warping etc.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

Liam

 

[weekendrider]

The setting on the side cover, how far are you backing off the set screw?
The manual says 1/4 turn but I use only an eighth.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Welcome to the forum, LPYYZ.

Yeah, that's kind of a common problem, especially down here in the South.
This may interest you:

Clutch pushrod experiment and tidbits

 

[LPYYZ]

Thanks for the replies so far. I've been backing it out 1/8 turn on the engine case adjustment.

 

[angus67]

I use an 1/8". No sweat. But my clutch grabs real quick, as in, as soon as the lever moves out, it grabs. Keep trying.

 

[weekendrider]

Does the plastic piece have a crack?

 

[gggGary]

2many found the most common cause for what you describe and it has a simple solution. Too many, too tight of bends in the cable! IT happens all the time when the cable has been off the bike and rerouted especially with shorter handlebars and a long "special" clutch cable. Smooth easy routing is critical. This pic shows part of the routing that works with short bars and stock gauges.

Like WER hinted; remove clean and check every part of the clutch worm, double check the nylon for cracks. Correct adjustment of the worm screw is also key. My bikes work fine with no re-adjustment of clutch cable slack during the ride needed. My mantra is that good clutch function is correcting a series of little issues, not a single duh-oh THAT's the problem find.
One that list he cable must operate smoothly you should be able to easily slide the cable in and out of the sheath from either end. Many times old cables have rusted stiff wires and or kinks somewhere inside. You can't cure a sick cable, if it doesn't move easily once lubed, toss it, buy new. Yes I am cheap, yes I have tried to fix sick cables. It doesn't work.

As quick experiment, route the cable loose over the tank, not tortured in the mess under the tank, see how it works.

Here are some more detailed routing ideas.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41987