Clutch screws stuck!

navd

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So I'm doing a rebuild and am ready to take out the clutch. The screws holding the springs are so unbelievably stuck, that I'm out of ideas for removing them.

I'm using a JIS #3 bit and an impact driver and the damn screws don't want to budge. :banghead::banghead::banghead:


Suggestions?
 
You need to use a hand impact driver, the kind that you smack with a mallet. Available at any auto parts store for about $10.
An air or electric impact driver will never work on stuck Phillips head screws. If you've already messed up the heads you will need to cut slots with a Dremel and use the slotted screwdriver tip in the hand impact driver kit. They'll come out.
 
Thanks, I got them out!

Thankfully I stopped before I stripped any of the heads too bad. Did some research and you're right. You'll get substantially more force with a manual impact driver (because you're striking with a hammer)

I stopped by the autoparts store and picked one up for $12, and they popped right out. I was originally using an electric impact driver.
 
Hi navd and welcome,
congratulations, you have learned a valuable lesson.
Mfrs use crosspoint screws because they build quick.
Mfrs don't give a shit that crosspoints are a swine to undo.
Replace those crosspoint special clutch fasteners with Allen head screws and adapter sleeves.
Each time you remove any of your bike's crosspoint fasteners toss it in the bin and replace it with an Allen head or hex head fastener as appropriate.
 
Yes I have and thanks a bunch! I'll be splitting the bottom end today, I'll be getting a build thread started soon.

:thumbsup:
 
I got these for mine.

£20 on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XS650-Clu...293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35ee45d7ad

$_57.jpg


$_57.jpg
 
If you have a drill press you can dill out the old bolts so Allen head bolts will go through them.
A bit of a search and you will find the how to.
Leo
 
Tired of this thing, what I did, I took out those Philip head screws and take some Allen head screws, took the head off of those screws and weld them into the Philip screws head... Hope this can help anyone to have an idea
 

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now that's a guy that luvs to fab! screw $35 bucks and mikes xs for the kit and make your own! whatever works, right?
 
I just spend $1.06 on the allen screws and the time and will to fabricate them ..Forgot to upload pictures of final work
 
I'll just chime in with my tired old; any time a screw won't LOOSEN, switch tactics and try to tighten it a bit. just a smack or two on the hand impact then go back to loosening. This has worked MANY times for me. Same thing if a screw, nut or bolt starts to bind on the way out. STOP! lube with rust buster and or oil, retighten, then try loosening again. Repeat as needed till it's all the way out. If a thread starts to gall and tear this will often smooth things out, force out a galled screw and you will ruin a thread set. Throw away any fastener that bound up, and replace with new, use some grease, it will reform the aluminum threads and save a load of $$ grief.
 
now that's a guy that luvs to fab! screw $35 bucks and mikes xs for the kit and make your own! whatever works, right?
Hi angus,
sometimes you just gotta do just that.
XS11 middle gear and rear drive filler plugs are (IIRC) M14 thread, have 4mm a/f Allen head holes in the top and you can't get directly on top of them for removal.
Which is why mine were so cratered out by the dreaded PO that I had to file flats on their flange edge to remove them with an open end wrench.
And yes, I could have bought new ones and been hyper-careful to tighten them just enough.
My fix was to drill the cratered hexes out to 6mm and braze cut off short M6 hex head fasteners in there.
Now that I've fixed them to be like Yamaha should have made them in the first place they can be turned with an 11mm box end wrench.
 
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