These clutches have a lot of drag, especially when the motor is off. It's usually pretty hard to push the bike around in gear with the clutch pulled in. Yours could be a bit worse because the plates are fresh and new. As long as the bike doesn't lurch forward and stall when you drop it in 1st with the clutch pulled in, I'd say you're fine.
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Clutch won't disengage after new clutch plates
- Thread starter Jake Violando
- Start date
Jake Violando
XS650 Addict
I'll try it and let you know thanks. I didn't wanna bind or break something if I drop it in first and it lurches forward
Jake, you mentioned observing your pressure plate movement, before installing the right side clutch cover? If so, how does your pressure plate movement compare with the video (and the video in the reference link) in post #1 this thread:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-xs650-experimental-clutch.47498/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/yamaha-xs650-experimental-clutch.47498/
Jake you have a good grasp of the procedure. My 2 cents is 5twins post is spot on. There is just a lot of drag with these clutch packs. The only other thing to add would be the tendency of the plate tabs to cut grooves into the inner basket fingers. Hindering plate separation. Forum wisdom says trying to smooth the fingers makes take off sloppy and will soon wear the grooves into the fingers again. Knock wood I've never experienced grooves deep enough to catch the plates and stop the plates from separating.
Hi Jake:
When I woke up my '76 last year, the clutch was locked up and so I just started working the cable and luring it from the handlebar down. After a while, I could get the clutch lever to pull in but the clutch itself was still locked up so I lashed the lever to the handlebar with a bungee and started paddling around my garage - or trying to - Fred Flintstone style.
After rocking the bike back and forth for A LONG TIME - the rear wheel started to turn and after a short time of continued rocking and paddling, it was free. After that, I eventual.y got the engine started and the bike drove absolutely fine. I put 1800 miles on her last year and never touched the clutch again.
I may have missed a detail in your post above, but my basic point is that if you have assembled everything correctly and your clutch lever can be pulled in right to the handlebar, maybe just trying the Fred Flintstone "rocking routine" will break loose those sticky plates.
Best of luck and stick at it!
Pete
When I woke up my '76 last year, the clutch was locked up and so I just started working the cable and luring it from the handlebar down. After a while, I could get the clutch lever to pull in but the clutch itself was still locked up so I lashed the lever to the handlebar with a bungee and started paddling around my garage - or trying to - Fred Flintstone style.
After rocking the bike back and forth for A LONG TIME - the rear wheel started to turn and after a short time of continued rocking and paddling, it was free. After that, I eventual.y got the engine started and the bike drove absolutely fine. I put 1800 miles on her last year and never touched the clutch again.
I may have missed a detail in your post above, but my basic point is that if you have assembled everything correctly and your clutch lever can be pulled in right to the handlebar, maybe just trying the Fred Flintstone "rocking routine" will break loose those sticky plates.
Best of luck and stick at it!
Pete
Jake Violando
XS650 Addict
Okay guys! She shifts like butter! Soaked the plates over night, installed for what seems like the 100th time, adjusted clutch. Boom! No more slip. But for some reason my xs tops at 65mph. 17/32 gearing
.....but isn't 65 the speed limit in Pennsylvania....?
Jake Violando
XS650 Addict
Some spots the speed limit is 70 and I can not hit 70mph. Bike doesn't sputter or anything. A little tick on the left side valves. Maybe I should learn to do timing , check it, learn to adjust valves?
Possibly... hmmmmm. I am no carburetor expert, but that does not sound too much like a fuel problem to me because it starts, idles and runs fine up to a moderate speed. It sounds like an ignition problem.
Let's see now, 65 MPH is just over 4000 RPM isn't it? A couple of questions:
1) will the bike rev to more than 4-5000 when it's sitting still? (i.e. Not in gear)?
2) have you checked and lubed the centrifugal advancer mechanism inside the RH side camshaft end cover? The little fly-weights can stick.
Also, there is a long shaft that runs right through the middle of the camshaft to connect the advance mechanism to the breaker points mounting plate which is inside the LH camshaft cover.
NOTE: it is supported by some bushings along the way. Anyhow, if that shaft sticks and cannot rotate freely, the points plate will not move and the ignition timing will not advance as the engine speeds up.
Regardless of the cause, if the ignition is not advancing properly, it prevent the engine from revving up.
Pete
Let's see now, 65 MPH is just over 4000 RPM isn't it? A couple of questions:
1) will the bike rev to more than 4-5000 when it's sitting still? (i.e. Not in gear)?
2) have you checked and lubed the centrifugal advancer mechanism inside the RH side camshaft end cover? The little fly-weights can stick.
Also, there is a long shaft that runs right through the middle of the camshaft to connect the advance mechanism to the breaker points mounting plate which is inside the LH camshaft cover.
NOTE: it is supported by some bushings along the way. Anyhow, if that shaft sticks and cannot rotate freely, the points plate will not move and the ignition timing will not advance as the engine speeds up.
Regardless of the cause, if the ignition is not advancing properly, it prevent the engine from revving up.
Pete
It could be bad diaphragms. If they have small holes in them, the slides will only lift so far, not all the way, and the bike will only go so fast.
Yes, if you're going to own an old bike like this, you have to learn how to do all the routine maintenance stuff like valves and timing. Unless of course, you're rich, then you can just pay people to do it for you, lol.
Yes, if you're going to own an old bike like this, you have to learn how to do all the routine maintenance stuff like valves and timing. Unless of course, you're rich, then you can just pay people to do it for you, lol.
Hey Pete, US G-models (1980) had TCI--no mechanical advance unit. BTW re. Post 25: What did you use for bait when you lured your clutch cable, and how heavy was the line you used? I tried a minnow on a spinner with 20 lb. monofilament, but the damn clutch cable snapped the line like thread when it struck.
Bob Kelly III
Ranch Kid from way back,.... that got Old !
Hay I wouldn't mind landing a few extra clutch cables myself ...where do you fish for those ????
Bob.........
Bob.........
I just use dy-nee-mite.
Clutch cables float to the surface...
Clutch cables float to the surface...
Yeah, I just used a worm on a hook with a Rapalla flashy looking shield to attract its attention. It work fine actually and I reeled it in fairly quickly. As for the line, I used a chuck of braided brake hose because I sure did t want to lose it once I had it snagged.
As for the TCI no mech advance ....hmmmmm.....well that's once less thing to go wrong.
Hi Jake,
your avatar photo shows a bike that's been hardtailed.
Which leads me to suspect that the bike's ignition has also been messed with
and that's the "usual suspect" for limiting an engine's rpms so it won't go faster than 65mph.
(Although those pleated conical pod filters ain't helping, neither; mebbe try taking them off for a test run?)
I'd suggest you also check what kind of ignition your bike actually has because the fix differs between them.
Possibilities:-
1) stock points & coils (if the bike is a '79 or earlier but registered as an '80)
2) Stock TCI (if the bike is really an '80)
3) Aftermarket PMA and ignition ( Hardtailers are highly susceptible to PMA advertising claims)
your avatar photo shows a bike that's been hardtailed.
Which leads me to suspect that the bike's ignition has also been messed with
and that's the "usual suspect" for limiting an engine's rpms so it won't go faster than 65mph.
(Although those pleated conical pod filters ain't helping, neither; mebbe try taking them off for a test run?)
I'd suggest you also check what kind of ignition your bike actually has because the fix differs between them.
Possibilities:-
1) stock points & coils (if the bike is a '79 or earlier but registered as an '80)
2) Stock TCI (if the bike is really an '80)
3) Aftermarket PMA and ignition ( Hardtailers are highly susceptible to PMA advertising claims)
My best guess is carb rubber diaphragms may have small holes.
welcome Jake.
I haven't time at the moment to read the entire thread so at the risk of repeating someone elses advice I would add one other thing to check .
If you over-tighten the two fixing bolts holding the worm drive to the cover it will distort the plastic and cause the worm to bind inside the case due to excessive friction. After you have fixed the worm drive in the cover operate the worm and make sure that it rotates fully without any stiffness or rubbing .
I expect that someone else has already advised you that there is two ends to the clutch push rod . One end is slightly taperered and this is the end that must locate in the worm drive . if you put the rod in the wrong way round the rod end will jam in the worm drive.
I haven't time at the moment to read the entire thread so at the risk of repeating someone elses advice I would add one other thing to check .
If you over-tighten the two fixing bolts holding the worm drive to the cover it will distort the plastic and cause the worm to bind inside the case due to excessive friction. After you have fixed the worm drive in the cover operate the worm and make sure that it rotates fully without any stiffness or rubbing .
I expect that someone else has already advised you that there is two ends to the clutch push rod . One end is slightly taperered and this is the end that must locate in the worm drive . if you put the rod in the wrong way round the rod end will jam in the worm drive.
Bob Kelly III
Ranch Kid from way back,.... that got Old !
nope Peanut your the first to mention that..... and you taught me something ...I didn't know that ! Thank you !
but he said he got the plates unstuck and now the bike won't go above 65mph 17:32 is fairly low gearing I think.... if it's red lining at 65 then that's the reason ! but I doubt you could find gearing to make it that low ! LOL....
what is your tach reading at 65mph ???? ( the point that the bike won't go any faster at ?)
.... I'm guessing that it's the diaphrams in the carbs as well.... but just guessing !
Bob.........
but he said he got the plates unstuck and now the bike won't go above 65mph 17:32 is fairly low gearing I think.... if it's red lining at 65 then that's the reason ! but I doubt you could find gearing to make it that low ! LOL....
what is your tach reading at 65mph ???? ( the point that the bike won't go any faster at ?)
.... I'm guessing that it's the diaphrams in the carbs as well.... but just guessing !
Bob.........
well these engines are good for over a ton so there must be something seriously amiss with Jakes bike.
It could have been the clutch slipping ... could have been the advance it could be so many things but its unlikely to be just the gearing I shouldn't have thought. Jakes gear ratio it a standard mod that lots of us do to reduce the rpm and vibration at cruising speed.
hows yours going Bob ? did you get out on it yet today ?
Bob Kelly III
Ranch Kid from way back,.... that got Old !
Not today because it's too dern cold here but about 4 or 5 days ago I took her out and she purred like a Kitten ! took her about 30miles one way
out through ranch land and in general Just enjoied the hell out of it !
I'm waiting for my seat to arive now and then I'll take her out again... I've just been doing small things on it like fixing the electric start button and
polishing up the seat/grab bar .... and doing much needed clean up on the o'l girl !
Man it's good to have a Bike again ! LOL
....
I agree it's probably NOT the gearing <GRIN> but I'ed like to know about what RPM the engine tops out at..... that might tell us something. The more I think about it the more it points to carb diaphrams like 5twins says ... one carb would rise up further and the other one not causing a big flat spot
Bob...........
out through ranch land and in general Just enjoied the hell out of it !
I'm waiting for my seat to arive now and then I'll take her out again... I've just been doing small things on it like fixing the electric start button and
polishing up the seat/grab bar .... and doing much needed clean up on the o'l girl !
Man it's good to have a Bike again ! LOL
....
I agree it's probably NOT the gearing <GRIN> but I'ed like to know about what RPM the engine tops out at..... that might tell us something. The more I think about it the more it points to carb diaphrams like 5twins says ... one carb would rise up further and the other one not causing a big flat spot
Bob...........
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