Clutch won't disengage

[rude]

I've read everything I can in this forum regarding adjusting the clutch and for all intents the clutch "feels" good, I can see the worm turn but the clutch still won't disengage. For adjustment I wound the screw out then in until it started touching the push rod (resistance) and backed it off a spoofteenth and then final adjust at the handlebar.
Checked the cable and it is seated. I have tried rolling in gear with clutch in, also hit the starter in gear with the clutch held in, (kickstarter is not an option at present due to rearsets and a mate tacking a long time to do the bends required to miss the brake lever)
Since I last used the clutch 6 months ago I have sourced a new cable and re ran it up and between the carbs, and obviously I have fiddled with the adjustment

So before pulling the right sidecover to see if the plates are stuck together tonight I thought I'd consult with you guys.

Am I on the right track or is there something else I am missing?

Your help is appreciated

 

[XSLeo]

The plasic part of the actuator in the left side cover maybe cracked, if so it can take half the lever travel to take up the extra slack of the crack. It did on mine when it was cracked.
You can try putting it up on the center stand, tie the lever back to the handle bars. Turn the rear wheel. This may break the clutch plates apart.
I don't route the cable between the carbs. From the case up beside the carbs, along the frame, out through the trees, between the gauges and headlight, to the lever. As few bends as possible.

 

[highboy04]

if it has sat for a while the clutch plates may be sticking together.

 

[rude]

Plastic part in LH cover looks OK, so I'm now assuming clutch plates stuck together, already tried a few tricks to unstick the plates, so RH cover needs to come off.

Start bike to warm engine so oil is warm to drain, realise I don't have my large socket set for the sump plugs, get big shifter, get under the bike, sump plugs are tight, stainless headers are hot, burn arm hand and wrist.
Walkaway until I have the correct tool for the job
cheers

 

[XSLeo]

I like to break the drain plug loose, snug back up, then warm the bike up. Then the drain plug comes out easy.

 

[rude]

XSLeo,
I did try to loosen them when cold, very tight, I "thought" they might be easier when warm but as I said working on the floor those pipes seem to jump out and bite if you aren't carefull!
Last night I put the 1 1/16" half inch drive socket with the bar (not the wratchet) and used a 3ft long cheater bar, I achieved bending my socket bar only. Those plugs are tight.
Next is to get a longer, larger diameter cheater bar and slide it over my wratchet, I also need a mate to hold the bike as I'm screwing it around on the centre stand when I'm putting weight on the socket.

If this doesn't work I'm thinking (hoping) rattle gun might loosen them?

 

[XSLeo]

The one on the sump plate. take the sump plate off. Take off the filter screen. Clamp the drain plug in a vice. Heat the sump plate. This should expand the plate, A sharp whack on the sump plate with a wooden mallet should loosen the drain plug.
The rear plug just may take a bit.
A six point socket with a jack under it so it won't slip on the drain plug. As you or your helper pulls on the breaker bar, a few whacks on the breaker bar with the wooden mallet my break it loose. The sudden shock of the whacks will do better than a cheater pipe.
A rattle gun would work but it's hard to get under the bike. Having your helper hold the bike tipped over so you can get the rattle gun lined up should work.
Is this the first time you have pulled the drain plugs? If so then you can blame the PO for that one. When you do get them out you probably not find the sealing washers. Some are cork, others copper. You should use a washer there.
They really don't need much torque. I finger tight and maybe 1/32 to 1/16 turn more. Recheck it after a few miles to be sure it has not loosened.
The stock tool kit has a short end wrench that works good. maybe 5 inches long Can't over tighten with that.

 

[rude]

Yeh man the PO was the last one down there, before I bought it he had done an oil change (so he said), and I can see the copper crushed washers.

This bike looked clean and relativly untouched but everything I touch has been a challenge, pipes had to be cut off, shock bolts that needed a cheater bar to break free.
I even had to replace the studs at the bottom of the fork leg, both stripped as they were cross threaded.
Triple clamp nuts and bolts as tight as the proverbial.....................
PO was Superman in Clark Kents clothes I think.

Thanks for the advice, I'm away for the weekend so maybe the elves will loosen them for me when I'm not looking

cheers

 

[rude]

Just to close this off, I purchased a 6 point 27mm socket and borrowed a fit for purpose
3ft long 1/2" drive extension handle from the local bike Mechanic (mates GSX750 was in the workshop so we agreed that was surety for the loan of the extension bar). Working alone I still could not loosen either sump bolt as the bike kept sliding around the floor, mate arrived held the bike and once I had something firm to lean on whilst laying down under the bike, with a considerable amount of weight on the bolts they both eventually cracked loose!!
Clutch plates were all stuck together, removed and separated plates, liberal amount of oil spread on the plates, re-assemble, re-adjust...........and now I have a clutch.

Thanks for the advice gents
cheers

 

[MB-Ian]

Welcome fellow aussie - good to hear more XSs are still kicking around in our big country.

I.