Cure for a maxed out clutch lever barrel adjuster?

[GeorgeOC]

Hello all, wondering if there's a quick fix for a clutch lever adjustment barrel that's maxed out..? I've adjusted the clutch per the great instructions from a few threads. Function is good, but as the cable even slightly breaks in, I'm running out of ability to trim the slack out.

Any ideas?!

 

[DanielBlack]

I thought I was following the proper procedure as well, but had excess slack also.

There's sort of a false resistance you first encounter if the whole rod(s) & balls chain has any slack.

It's really easy as the screw hits the first ball, but then you have to imagine it picking up the little bit of resistance of the rod or two.

YMMV

 

[weekendrider]

Have you started over/re-adjusted when the cable barrel maxes out?

 

[5twins]

"Fan" the clutch lever while you're tightening the worm gear adjuster screw. By that, I mean pump the lever in and out through the available freeplay. Don't pull it all the way in and disengage the clutch, just through the freeplay until you feel resistance, the start of disengagement. Pump the lever as you keep constant tightening force on the screw. You should find the adjuster screw will go in another 1/4 turn or so, maybe a little more. What you're doing here is "stacking" all the clutch pushrods and balls together tightly, getting all the gaps and excess oil out from between them. When the adjuster screw is as tight as it will go, then back it off that 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Ditto on 5twin's "fanning method".
The stock cables are barely long enuff to get the worm screw's arm in a good position. I run the handlebar's barrel cable adjuster all the way in, getting maximum slack. Then do all adjustments at the bottom adjuster, even setting the clutch lever's free play...

 

[racerdave]

This worked well for me, when I was using a E Z Pull cable from Mercury Morse. I made out of a brass union.

 

[gggGary]

Like RD is suggesting some aftermarket cables have a less than perfect sleeve to core reveal length. What "those guys" say about "slack", good and snug with your phillips without it camming out of the screw, then just slightly backed off tight gives me the best clutch action, engine cold AND hot. Don't back off a 1/4 turn that's too much.

 

[GeorgeOC]

Thank you everyone for the help. Somethings seem so simple! I've adjusted using everyone's help here, and I have take up at least 1/2 of the slack. Time for a test ride... What was happening before was that inevitably after a few rides, I'd start to lose easy ability to find neutral. A turn or so from the barrel adj would cure that. But maybe that's more evident of my not properly adjusting the worm screw to begin with. To cautious with the initial 'contact' feel. Now that i've put a little touch/contact into it, I think we'll be better off.

 

[MaxPete]

Hi George:

You may have already done this but it seems to me that the other thing that MIGHT help is swapping in the single long pushrod that was used on later models.

I really don't understand why Yamaha went with two pushrods and two balls. That is just a tolerance stack-up nightmare and a lot of unnecessary cost and parts count.

Anyhow - the pushrods are available NOS on the web - I got one some months ago for around $7.50 USD.

Pete

 

[retiredgentleman]

I've found its best to not back off at all, when adjusting at the worm screw. Same thing at the lever......................I leave no free play at all.
These clutches need as much plate separation as possible.
I also drilled a second hole in the operating arm at the worm screw, in order to have a larger push rod stroke.

I used to re-adjust the clutch cable at the lever as the engine got hot, but since I found the "sweet spot" adjustment, and never touch it now. I can find neutral any time now.

 

[MaxPete]

Yup - I am going to try your method RG. Lucille's neutral isn't normally too hard to find but I am just about out of handlebar adjustment and I found that the adjuster down on the engine case has a seized or done-up too tightly...lock nut.

Anyhow, I am headed out to the DCW and will be addressing several issues on both bikes.

 

[5twins]

Keep in mind that adjusting up at the handlebar changes the angle between the cable and the worm gear arm, adjusting down at the worm does not. Best leverage or "pull power" is achieved when the cable is at 90° to the arm. Ideally, we try to set the adjustment so the angle is slightly less than 90° at rest, and then moves through and just past that 90° spot when you pull the lever. That can only be done if you do most, if not all, of your adjusting at the worm gear. Using the adjuster on the perch basically lengthens the outer sheath and this shortens the inner cable. When you shorten the inner cable that lifts the worm gear arm.

Another problem with lifting the worm arm is it withdraws it's attached male worm from the case mounted female portion. Do all your adjusting up at the perch and you could start losing contact area between the 2 parts. Ideally, you want to see the male worm pretty much fully inserted into the female part after adjusting .....

 

[gggGary]

Lube the worm and insert fully into the female........... LOL

 

[xjwmx]

as the cable even slightly breaks in, I'm running out of ability to trim the slack out.

If it keeps doing it, it's possible the cable is pulling out of the bead at one or both ends.

 

[MaxPete]

Ooooohhhh - I'll bet that hurts like fury!!!

 

[GeorgeOC]

Hi George:

You may have already done this but it seems to me that the other thing that MIGHT help is swapping in the single long pushrod that was used on later models.

I really don't understand why Yamaha went with two pushrods and two balls. That is just a tolerance stack-up nightmare and a lot of unnecessary cost and parts count.

Anyhow - the pushrods are available NOS on the web - I got one some months ago for around $7.50 USD.

Pete

I've found its best to not back off at all, when adjusting at the worm screw. Same thing at the lever......................I leave no free play at all.
These clutches need as much plate separation as possible.
I also drilled a second hole in the operating arm at the worm screw, in order to have a larger push rod stroke.

I used to re-adjust the clutch cable at the lever as the engine got hot, but since I found the "sweet spot" adjustment, and never touch it now. I can find neutral any time now.

Thanks everyone! First ride was good with the updated tension. I'd say I made about a 40% gain with the barrel adjuster. I did opt for a single piece push rod when I did the rebuild, I happen to agree with you Pete (above). RG, I am going to attempt the 2nd drilled hole trick. I like the thought of a increased band on the push rod. I think I have seen photos of that on the boards somewhere....

Thanks again everyone!

 

[retiredgentleman]

The original distance from the centre of the worm gear to the hole was 1 25/32". I changed that to 1 14/32" when I drilled the new hole. It was just a guess on my part for the new hole. A little more effort will be required to pull the clutch lever.

 

[5twins]

Yamaha did this themselves to the later worm gear arms. My '78 didn't have it so obviously it happened after that .....

If you didn't want to alter yours, maybe Gary could help you out with a used late version.